FRUITS.
Here, for the first time, I tasted the water of a certain delicious kind of cocoa-nut, which was frequently sent by his majesty; it was highly flavoured, and tasted like burnt almonds. Oil is made in large quantities, and is used, when fresh, for cooking, burning, and for anointing the skin, and nourishing the hair. A little later, and the delicious mangosteen will be ripe, the orange, the durian, the pineapple, and lichi, will be in abundance, besides all the other tropical fruits common to this climate. The only vegetables we have yet seen on our table are the sweet potatoe, yam, garlic, onion, Indian corn, beans, peas, and celery, which latter is used in soups only.
The valley of the Menam produces marsh-rice, of various qualities, and in the greatest abundance; it is often exported in large quantities, by license from the king. Rice is almost the only article of food used by the inhabitants; this vegetable is mixed with a little balachang and compound of shrimps, or the spawn of shrimps, or small fish, mixed with salt, and dried in the sun, and then moistened with fish-pickle: it is not only unsavoury to Europeans, but some of it is most offensive to the smell. The inhabitants have but two meals a day, in the morning and evening; the richer add tea, which is drunk in great quantities, without sugar or milk, during the day. Chewing areca and smoking cigars, are common to all, even among small children, and both are constantly used during their waking hours.
CHAPTER XVII.
PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE OF BANG-KOK—DESCRIPTION—ROYAL ELEPHANT—WHITE ELEPHANTS—KING OF SIAM—GREAT TEMPLE OF GUATAMA—CITY OF BANG-KOK—TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG, AND FIGURE OF BUDHA—BANYAN TREE—FIRE-FEEDERS—MISSIONARIES.
PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE.
On Monday, the eighteenth, arrangements having been previously made, three large boats were sent by the praklang, to convey us to the palace, for the purpose of being presented to his majesty. On the previous evening, the second praklang, or the phaya-phiphat kossa, with a long train of attendants, came to visit us, with the ostensible object of talking farther respecting certain articles, which the praklang wished to have altered in the treaty. After a few minutes’ conversation upon this subject, the audience of the king was spoken of, and he said that certain ceremonies, according to court etiquette, must be observed on our visit. I replied, that every proper respect would, of course, be shown to his majesty; but that nothing mean or servile must be expected. He then said, on our entrance into the hall of audience, on passing the screen, three bows were expected in the European style; that, on sitting down, in the Asiatic style, (as no chairs are there ever used,) our feet must be placed behind us, that three bows were then to be made, by uniting the hands and touching the forehead, and lowering them to the breast. Seeing nothing unreasonable or degrading in this formality, it was agreed to, excepting that we refused to bow the head, like the Siamese. On the king’s naming us personally, we were to bow in the usual style of recognisance with us; and when the curtain was drawn on his appearance, we were to make three such bows, as might suit us. This was all very well; and I was glad to find the taking off the shoes was not spoken of, and entering in a stooping position, which could not have been complied with, as it was by Mr. Crawford, when on a mission a few years since, who, to effect his purpose, (in which he totally failed,) complied with their insulting demands. The Siamese amuse themselves with talking upon this subject even now, and say, that the gentlemen belonging to the mission, were obliged to walk ankle deep in mud and water; that some of them lost their shoes, they being thrown away purposely by the Siamese servants; of course, by order of their masters. Once or twice, the subject was named to me, and I severely reproved them for their disgraceful conduct. Major Burney, it seems, on a more recent mission, agreed to comply with the demand of taking off his shoes, but on the condition that he kept on his hat: they, however, preferred he should keep on his shoes, and take off his hat.
Our mode of conveyance from the water-side to the palace, was agreed upon previously, viz.: A palanquin, with eight bearers, dressed in red uniforms, and caps to correspond, was to be provided for myself, and ten horses for the other gentlemen, properly caparisoned, according to rank. We embarked at nine o’clock, and were, in a few minutes, at the palace-stairs. Spectators were numerous, in the floating houses and boats, on our way; and on landing, the place was thronged with them, leaving sufficient space, however, for the procession, there being officers in attendance to keep the multitude in order. However, every thing was well conducted, and without noise. Excellent horses, handsomely caparisoned, with elegant saddles and silk bridles, breastplate and head-stall, ornamented with various-coloured gems, decked in rich embroidery, were provided: each horse was led by one of the king’s servants.