in the open ground (according to some good growers) are the most economical of space, but I do not care much for them. Train at first from maidens as for a pyramid, keeping one upright shoot and guiding one branch each side in an almost horizontal position. Cut back the leader once a year at first at about 12 or 15 inches from the branch below to one bud just above the buds whence the branches are to spring. From this one bud the upright leader will grow. The branches should be about a foot apart. Stop the topmost in summer (if very strong) to divert the sap into other parts. Stop strong horizontals to strengthen the weak and to promote fruit-buds. Stop shoots on the branches late in June or in July at six full leaves, if the tree is flourishing, but not otherwise. Equalise the sap as far as possible. Espaliers may be bought from the nurseries, saving several years. Plant 15 or 20 feet apart according to ground and tree. Support with rails or stout firm stakes placed 2½ feet from the walk; place the tree 3 inches from the stake on the side of the path. Keep the trees low to prevent shade on the garden; 5 feet is high enough. Prune established trees in July; cutting back fresh shoots (laterals) to six leaves, and opening the tree and fruit to the sun, removing shoots not needed. Reduce to two or three buds in winter; with a small saw cut back large lumpy pieces the growth of years.
Horizontals on Walls
should be trained as Espaliers. They are better for a low than a high wall. The branches should be about a foot (four bricks) apart. In some old gardens, enormous Horizontals may be seen with the branches at distant ends turned upwards. The lower branches are horizontal as far as the space allows, then turned upwards. This change checks the sap, lessens luxuriance, and promotes fruit-buds. But there often is excessive growth in the upper parts. These upper shoots must be pruned before the lower. Such trees are called Palmetto Verrier, and are scarcely to be recommended.
Fan-Shaped Trees
are adapted to high walls. Tomatoes or other fruits may be grown below in the vacant spaces. By planting a standard against a high wall, it will soon be covered if fed and duly trained. Cut the tree back as an orchard standard after planting. Keep the boughs well away from each other, 12 inches or more apart. If a wall is shaded with foliage it derives little heat from the sun. Stop the gross upright shoots early in the season to spread the sap, and summer prune in July. Keep the branches close to the wall, and complete pruning in winter. These trees must be on the Pear Stock. The choicest sorts, such as Doyenné du Comice, Beurré Superfin or Diel should be selected for a south wall. Prune the upper parts before the lower. Wires may be placed on the walls 1½ inches out, with an interval of 12 inches or more between each wire.
Bushes
are of great value, either in a plantation or a garden. In good soil, even those on the quince grow large, and may need root-pruning or moving. In poor soil, with gravel or chalk not far below, bushes on Pear Stock must be moved every few years, and well fed. Rotten manure given in the autumn will attract and feed the roots. Fruit on low bushes is less affected by strong winds. Some sorts do better as bushes than as pyramids; bushes, too, are more under control. A maiden tree after planting should be allowed to grow for a year unchecked, to establish the roots. In winter cut the tree back to within a foot of the ground. In the spring it will throw out vigorous shoots. Select three or four of these, and fix them in position with stakes, removing the others. Next winter cut these back to an outer eye, leaving six or nine inches of each branch from the stem. Other branches will soon follow. Time will be saved by buying bushes from the nursery. Keep these as open as possible, especially on the south side and the centre. Each branch should be a foot apart. Summer prune in July and winter as before. Stop the branches in summer, if growing rapidly, to produce fruit spurs, and in winter cut back to strong wood (to an outer eye). All new wood will thus be feathered during the following year. Some bushes are very diffuse and need much room, e.g. Catillac and Uvedale St Germain. Bushes on quince should be eight to twelve feet apart; strong growers, such as Pitmaston, Duchesse d'Angoulême, Catillac, should be even more in good soil, if root-pruning is not to be practised. The following are good as bush trees:—
