Guide to West Point, and the U.S. Military Academy

by Edward C. Boynton

One hundred and fifty-seven feet above the river, on a plateau, embracing about fifty acres of level ground, stands the United States Military Academy, established by an Act of Congress in 1802. The approach to this plateau from the steam-ferry landing, is up a carriage road, excavated in the almost perpendicular rocky bank, conveying the visitor past the Riding-hall, the Cavalry stables, and the Library building, to the crest of the plain, where the natural beauty of the latter, and its wonderful adaptation for locating a great military educational institution, first excites admiration. The plateau, which affords ample space for all military evolutions appertaining to artillery, infantry, and cavalry, is bounded on the west by lofty and rugged hills, at the base of which are situated the various Academic buildings, the Cadet Barracks, and the residences of the officers and professors.

Proceeding on to the West Point Hotel, an old fort is seen on the north-east angle of the plain, known as Fort Arnold, until the treason of the apostate became exposed, when the name, thenceforth unknown in American history, was changed to Fort Clinton. From the Hotel, situated on the north side of the plain, the lake-like river view is unobstructed for nearly ten miles, and presents in its constantly varying aspect of sunlight and shadow on the rugged mountain sides, in its periods of storm and repose on the water, and in its ever changing variety of steamers and river craft, a scene which for boldness and beauty stands unrivalled even in America, and is elsewhere unknown throughout the world. The pencil of the artist, the skill of the photographer, and the depths of language, have striven to portray the exceeding loveliness of the vista presented from this spot, while tourists fresh from the Alpine beauties of Switzerland and the Rhine, from Italy, Scotland and Wales, and from the overland wilds of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, alike render homage to the glorious landscape here spread before them.

Immediately to the north, and almost at the feet of the spectator, lies Constitution Island, with the exposed ruins of old Fort Constitution near the water's edge, and a little below which the end of the great chain was attached; while beyond may be seen the forge and furnace stacks of the Foundry, and the spires and dwellings in the village of Cold Spring. To the right, and farther up, Bull Hill and Breakneck Mountains, rise respectively 1,580 and 1,187 feet, the latter bearing Pollopel's Island, nearly opposite, while the city of Newburg, with the Shawangunk Mountain range for a background, fades away almost imperceptibly in the distance. On the left, the Crow Nest towers 1,428 feet above the water, with Washington's Valley nestling between it and the Cemetery. "Moore's House," from which the orders of Washington emanated in 1779, was situated in the valley bearing his name.

Leaving the Hotel by a pathway to the west, the visitor is conducted to the siege battery of rifled guns, exhibiting the form and structure of a field work, and from thence to a grove of elms, where a variety of trophy guns are to be seen, taken during the Revolution, in the war of 1812, in Mexico, and in the late rebellion. A portion of the great chain surrounds the beautiful gun "Le Monarque," presented by Congress to Lafayette, and one or two mortars captured by General Wayne at Stony Point. Beside the antique mortars and guns from Mexico, inscribed with the names of the places from which they came, there are two English rifled Blakely guns, from Fort Pulaski, two carronades, or ship's pivot guns, from Hilton Head, one 8-inch rifled Blakely, from Fort Morgan, all captured from the rebels; and the fragments of Gen. Gilmore's famous 30-pound Parrott gun, from Morris Island, which hurled 4,606 projectiles at Charleston before it assumed its present condition. These trophies, scarred and bruised by shot, and many other large guns made for experimental purposes, cannot fail to afford an interesting subject for contemplation. The large granite ball was brought by Gen. Delafield from the Crimea, where it is said such projectiles were thrown from mortars by the Russians, to crush the decks of the blockading fleet. The spot is further interesting from its having been dedicated as the site of the proposed Battle Monument, designed to be erected by subscription among the surviving officers and soldiers, to the memory of the officers of the regular army who fell during the rebellion.

A little to the westward, a walled enclosure, embracing the Ordnance Laboratory, is situated, and there may be seen a great variety of trophy guns from Cedar Creek and from Vicksburg, among which is the famous "Whistling Dick," an English rifled breech-loading Whitworth gun, captured on Morris Island, and the formidable Armstrong gun, captured at Fort Fisher, off Wilmington. Here, also, may be seen the gun from Elder's Battery, which fired the last shot previous to the surrender of Lee's Army. These, and a great variety of torpedoes, shot, shells and other Rebel implements of warfare, will well repay the visitor by the variety of design they exhibit. Pursuing the road down the hill, to the North wharf, the Sea-coast battery, with its armament of rifled monsters, consisting of 30-pound, 100, 200, and 300-pound Parrots, the 15-inch gun, and the 13-inch mortar, all capable of hurling projectiles as far as Pollopel's Island, or beyond, arrests the attention of the observer, and furnishes tangible evidences of the triumphant progress of manufacturing skill in weapons of war.

Returning by the road to the crest of the Plain, and proceeding west, a road to the left leads up the hill to Fort Putnam. The old fort, long neglected, and subject to the assaults of wintry blasts and beating storms, rises high above the Plain, and there, in grim majesty, it patiently awaits the silent march of disintegration and general decay. Approached in the mellow light of an evening sunset, when a single pencil of rays lingers and illuminates the crests of the mountains in the east, and a few scattered clouds, tinged with scarlet, gold and silver tints, fading and blending in perfect harmony with the deep blue of the firmament, indicate the close of the day; a single drum breaks upon the solemn stillness around, and directly after, a full chorus of music from the Band on the Plain below, proclaims the arrival of the hour for evening parade. Immediately echo takes up the strain, and repeats them in tones softer and sweeter, and fainter, until mountain, river and plain, all resound with notes of exquisite melody. Then the pulse quickens even in those habitually insensible to the beautiful spectacle here unfolded, and the visitor seems to breathe a new existence in an ideal world, until the reverberations of the evening gun announce the passage of another day, and the nearer approach of that period when the mighty Angel shall proclaim that "time was, but time shall be no more."

Were the same scene to be presented daily from this spot for all time, it would never cease to be a delight to make a pilgrimage to the glorious old Fort, while the vivid memories of its former patriot occupants, and their labors are treasured up and remembered. But a constant change is going on, and the same object presents itself to the eye in many different aspects. The beautiful river, from small beginnings, flowing down shelving rocks and flowering banks, is swollen in mighty grandeur until it bursts asunder the mountain barriers, and sweeps along, bearing on its broad bosom the wealth of two hemispheres, to lose itself in the limitless ocean, and become a part of the eternity of waters. The never-ceasing progress of the seasons, beginning with the first born bud of Spring, and so proceeding through each varying phase, to the period when the snow-capped mountains and the ice-bound river are ready to expose anew their surfaces to the reviving and gladdening warmth of showery April. The very rising and setting of the sun; the clear, blue sky, speckled with snowy fleece; the hurry and rush of the mountain storm through the gorge, unite to keep up an ever-changing panorama of all that is lovely and grand in nature.

Prominent among the many objects of interest which claim the attention of the observer from this point, may be seen Redoubt No. 4, on Rocky Hill, immediately in rear of the fort; the ruined parapets of Forts Wyllis and Webb lying southward, each enveloped in a cluster of cedars; and to the east, on the opposite side of the river, the North and South redoubts on the hill, in rear of Garrisons, environed by similar groups of the same beautiful vine-clad evergreen. The entire vicinity, rising as it does abruptly from the river to the terrace above, with wooded uplands, and bright green slopes beyond, is adorned with sumptuous country seats, gleaming through the tufts of foliage that surround them, and the lordly Hudson, with its furrowing keels and snowy sails, all unite to present a landscape, the beauty of which the pencil of the artist has vainly striven to portray.

The buildings appropriated to the occupation and education of the Cadets, are not without attractive interest to the visitor. The Cadets' Barrack, from its magnitude, symmetrical proportions, durability, and castellated structure, seldom fails to elicit commendation from all lovers of architecture who are drawn to its vicinity. The building contains eight divisions, of which two are assigned to each of the four companies of Cadets. Two occupants only are found in a room, each uniformly furnished with an iron bedstead, an iron table, chair, books, and wearing apparel; all other furniture being carefully excluded as unnecessary or unworthy of the student soldier. Warmed by furnaces, lighted by gas, with daily access to bath-rooms, and invigorated by their military exercises, the Cadets present an appearance of health and contentment seldom seen in other collegiate institutions.

The Academic Building contains, on the first floor, a gymnasium, with bowling-alleys, an apartment for fencing and sword exercise, and the Chemical laboratory. The second floor contains recitation rooms, and the models and collections pertaining to the departments of Engineering and Mineralogy and Geology. Besides the models of bridges, buildings, engines, and arches, illustrative of the progress of civil engineering, others relating to field works, fortifications, their system of attack and defense, and the models of Fort Wagner, before Charleston, and San Juan d'Ulloa, off Vera Cruz, will claim attention. The third floor is occupied by recitation and lecture rooms, the Picture gallery, Drawing Academy, and the Museum of ordnance and trophies. The Picture gallery contains specimens selected from the productions of the most proficient Cadets in the classes which have gone forth since 1838, and among them the names of many prominent army officers will be recognized. Regarded as an evidence of skill and cultivated taste, on the part of those who were first made aware of their power to acquire the art of sketching and coloring after entering the Military Academy, and as the result of a few months' instruction, no one can view this collection without experiencing the liveliest feelings of satisfaction and pleasure.