Besides the Cree or Knisteneaux Indians, there are innumerable tribes spread over the interior of this vast country; the principal of which are, the Copper, Dog-ribbed, and Hare-foot Indians, towards the north; the Swees, Bongees, Slave, and Stone Indians, towards the west; likewise a variety of tribes inhabiting the southern country around Moose, such as the Mistassins, and others. The different tribes have frequently wars with each other; and they appear to agree unanimously in one respect only, that is to say, in universal and eternal hatred of the Esquimaux. However, it fortunately happens, from the contrariety of their modes of life, that their parties seldom come into contact with each other, and consequently the battles between them are very rare.
It remains now to speak of one of the most enterprising speculations, perhaps, ever undertaken by a single person; namely, the attempt lately made by Lord Selkirk to establish a colony upon the banks of the Red River, in a situation nearly equidistant from York Factory and Lake Superior, and in the latitude of 50° N.[28]
His Lordship holds this land by a grant of 12,000 square acres from the Hudson’s-Bay Company. The first settlers left Sligo in the year 1811; and arriving in Hudson’s Bay, they past the winter of that year at York Factory. In the spring of 1812, they proceeded to their destination, under the command of a Captain McDonald, formerly belonging to a veteran corps in Canada: but this gentleman seems deficient in the essential art of conciliating those who are placed under his government: however, the situation of the colony is undoubtedly good, and the soil so fertile as to produce every thing almost spontaneously. The winters, indeed, are more severe than in places upon the same parallel of latitude in Europe, but much milder than at Moose, or any of the factories in Hudson’s Bay; and yet even at Moose they produce barley, if it be a fine year; and Orkney oats every year, by sowing them a short distance from the sea-beach. Still, it is extremely doubtful if ever his Lordship’s descendants will derive much benefit from their father’s mighty speculations; unless, indeed, he could prevail upon his tenants to grant him a sort of tithe from their produce, in lieu of rent. With this corn he could supply the Hudson’s-Bay settlements, which would save the Company a considerable expense, and they might repay his Lordship in the current coin of the realm.
The Prince of Wales took out many women and settlers for the colony, as also a Mr. White, to act as surgeon. Lord Selkirk has agreed with this gentleman, to give him a yearly stipend of 100l. together with a grant of five hundred acres of land, and a labourer four days in the week for its cultivation.
It is difficult to imagine what were his Lordship’s intentions with respect to the colony at Red River. Allowing the luxuriance of the soil to answer his fullest expectations, by what possible means could the produce be conveyed to an adequate market, so as to repay the expenses of its carriage? The communication between the colony and York Factory is kept up by boats, through the great Lake Winnepeg; a little to the southward of which runs the Asnaboyne or Red River: yet the channels of the different rivers are so full of falls, rapids, portages and carrying-places, that the labour of conveying the boats is immense, and consequently quite unfit for the purposes of commerce, except it be in furs, and in such light merchandize.
It was for some time believed that a large opening to the northward of Richmond, and near to Cape Smith, was an inlet to some large inland sea; but, in the year 1786, Mr. Davison, an officer in one of the Company’s ships, was sent in a schooner to explore the same. The following extract contains the description of his progress, as expressed by himself. “On entering the bight, and perceiving no land a-head, we sat down to a bottle of wine, and drank success to the new discovery: however, we were soon chagrined by the appearance of some low islands stretching across the opening; and shortly afterwards, coming to an anchor under one of them, we climbed to the top of it, and, to our great mortification, we perceived that the supposed sea was nothing more than a deep gulf, terminated at the bottom by thick clusters of islands, among which the sea ran winding in romantic mazes. Here we found the Esquimaux, who bartered away their dresses, &c. with great avidity, for any sort of metal.”—Notwithstanding this clear statement, there are experienced men who still suppose that an inland sea does exist; and for these reasons:—1st. There is a continual current setting to the east from Cape Henrietta Maria, towards the supposed opening; 2dly, The bay ship, in her voyage to Moose, has frequently observed a large glut of loose ice off Cape Henrietta Maria, which, before her return, has entirely disappeared; and whither could it have drifted with a strong easterly current, unless some opening had admitted its escape from the bay?—These are the reasons for and against the existence of the supposed sea; but it is to be regretted, that the Company do not make a decisive attempt to ascertain the fact.
It will now be necessary to return to the proceedings of the ship.
August 24th.—Course run S. W. by W. ¼W. 34 miles. In the morning, past to the northward of Mansfield, a very long, low, level island, lying about seventeen leagues to the westward of Cape Diggs. Its extent from north to south is said to be full sixty miles. As it abounds with marshes and ponds of fresh water, it may be considered as the grand nursery of those innumerable flocks of wild geese and ducks which afterwards line the shores of Hudson’s Bay: however, it is but seldom visited; and the ships generally avoid going too near to it, in consequence of some shoals that lay around the shore. Towards evening, we steered away W. S. W. by compass.
August 25th.—Course run S. S. W. ¾ W. 101 miles. As there is generally a glut of ice floating about the centre of Hudson’s Bay, a ship, on leaving Mansfield Island, and having a northerly wind, ought to steer for Cape Churchill, until they reach within sixty leagues of the land, when they may alter the course, and steer for York direct. It is necessary to make this angle, to avoid the body of ice in question. Another thing worthy of remark is, that if a ship steer in for Cape Churchill until she have forty fathoms water, she may be certain of being in latitude of the Cape: and when she reaches within five or six leagues of the land, she will have eighteen fathoms water. But a navigator must be cautious to make allowance for the southerly current, which sets continually along the western coast of Hudson’s Bay.
August 26th.—Course run S. W. ¼ S. 56 miles. The wind this day to the S. S. W. Our latitude at noon was 60°. 11′. N. ship still standing to the westward. It has been already noticed, that the officers of the Hudson’s-Bay ships have a motive in concealing from the public the knowledge which they actually possess relative to the navigation of the Northern Seas; and I pledged myself to explain that motive at a proper opportunity. I cannot undertake this unpleasant task at a more apposite time than the present, when it may serve to enliven the dulness of a few nautical remarks, which I think it necessary to insert into this part of my Journal.