“In July, 1846, the Company dispatched an expedition of thirteen persons, under the command of Doctor John Rae, from Fort Churchill, in Hudson’s Bay, for the purpose of surveying the unexplored portion of the Arctic coast, at the north-eastern point of the American continent. The expedition, which has just returned, has traced the coast all along from the Lord Mayor’s Bay, of Sir John Ross, to within a few miles of the Straits of the Fury and Hecla, proving thereby the correctness of Sir John Ross’s statement that Boothia Felix is a peninsula. From Doctor Rae’s Report to the Company the following interesting details are gathered:—Having divided his men into watches, the doctor started from Churchill on the 5th of July, 1846, and reached the most southerly opening of Wager River on the 22nd, where they were detained all day by immense quantities of heavy ice driving in with the flood and out again with the ebb tide, which ran at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour, forcing up the ice and grinding it against the rocks, causing a noise resembling thunder. On the 24th the party succeeded in making Repulse Bay, and cast anchor within eight miles of the head of the bay under shelter of a small island. Here Doctor Rae found some Esquimaux Indians, with whom he quickly established friendly relations, and from a chart drawn by one of the party he inferred that the Arctic Sea (named Akhoolee) to the west of Melville Peninsula was not more than forty miles distant, in a N.N.W. direction, and that about thirty-five miles of the distance was occupied by deep lakes; so that they would have only five miles of land to drag their boat over—a mode of proceeding he had decided upon even had the distance been much greater, in preference to going round by the Fury and Hecla Strait. Here he established a wintering party, and having unloaded the boats, and placed one of them, with the greater part of her cargo, in security, the other was hauled three miles up a rapid and narrow river which flowed from one of the lakes they were to pass through. This work occupied them the whole of the 26th, as the current was very strong, and the channel so full of large boulder stones, that the men were frequently up to the waist in ice-cold water whilst lifting or launching the boat over these impediments. Their landing-place was found to be in latitude 66° 32’ 1″ north. The rate of the chronometer had become so irregular that it could not be depended upon for finding the longitude, and during the winter it stopped altogether.
“Proceeding according to the course he had adopted, the party and their adventurous leader on the 3rd of August, at 11 o’clock a.m., rounded a high bluff cape, which they called after the lady of Sir John Henry Pelly, Bart., Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company. It is situated in latitude 67° 28’ 00″ north; longitude, by account, 87° 40’ west.
“Having succeeded, after surmounting many difficulties, in reaching Melville Peninsula, he was ultimately obliged to retreat from the numerous obstacles that rendered his progress impossible; he therefore paid a short visit to the wintering party at Repulse Bay, to ascertain how they were getting on. Ultimately he found himself obliged to give up all hope of prosecuting the survey on that occasion. His reasons we give in his own words:—’ My reasons for arriving at this conclusion I shall here briefly mention, as such a step may seem somewhat premature. I saw, from the state of the ice, and the prevalence of northerly winds, that there was no likelihood of our completing the whole of the proposed survey this season; and although part of the coast, either towards the Strait of the Fury and Hecla or towards Dease and Simpson’s furthest, might be traced, yet to accomplish even this might detain us so long, that there would be no time to make the necessary preparations for wintering, and we should thus be under the necessity of returning to Churchill without accomplishing the object of the expedition; or, if we remained at Repulse Bay, run the risk of starving, for I could obtain no promise of supplies from the natives, and all the provisions that we carried with us amounted to not more than four months’ expenditure, which was all that our boats could carry. We should have thus to depend almost altogether on our own exertions for the means of existence, both in regard to food and fuel.’
“The party, therefore, commenced preparations for passing the winter, and on the 2nd of September their house was furnished. Its internal dimensions were 20 feet long by 14 feet broad; height in front, 7 1/2 feet, sloping to 5 1/2 at the back. The roof was formed of oil-cloths and morse skin coverings, the masts and oars of our boats serving as rafters. The door was made of parchment deer skins stretched over a frame of wood. It was named Fort Hope, and was situated in latitude 66° 32′ 16″ north, longitude (by a number of sets of lunar distances) 86° 55′ 51″ west. The variation of the compass on the 30th August, 1846, was 62° 50′ 30″ west; dip of the needle, 88° 14′; and the mean time of 100 vertical vibrations in the line of declination 226.
“On the 5th of April in the present year, Doctor Rae commenced his spring journeys in company with three men, the Esquimaux, Ibit-Chuck, and Oulibuck’s son, as interpreter; and, on the 15th, which was very stormy, with a temperature of 20° below zero, they arrived at the steep mud banks of a bay, called by their guide Ak-ku-li-guwiak. Its surface was marked with a number of high rocky islands, towards the highest of which (six or seven miles distant) they directed their course, and were, before sunset, comfortably housed under a snow roof. Early in the morning of the 17th, he set out in company with two of the men, for the purpose of following the coast to some point surveyed by Sir John Ross, as he felt confident that the veteran discoverer was correct in his opinion as to Boothia Felix being part of the American continent. They directed their course to the furthest visible land, which bore N.W. (true). Cape Berens (the point alluded to) is equated in latitude 69° 4′ 12″ north, and longitude 90° 35’ west. It is formed entirely of granite partially covered with moss. Thirteen miles beyond this they arrived at two narrow points in the small bay, between which they built their snow hut.
“As they were now near the latitude and longitude of Lord Mayor’s Bay of Sir John Ross, he struck across land nearly in a north direction, and at noon, when passing over a considerable lake, the latitude of 69° 26′ 1″ north was observed. Advancing three miles beyond this, he reached another lake. A walk of twenty minutes brought him to an inlet not more than a quarter of a mile wide. This he traced to the westward for three miles, when his course was again obstructed by land. Ascending some high rocks, from which a good view could be obtained, he thought he could distinguish rough ice in the desired direction. With renewed hopes, he set out at a rapid pace, plunging among deep snow, scrambling over rocks and through rough ice, until he gained some rising ground close to the beach. From the spot where he now stood, as far as the eye could see to the north-west, lay a large extent of ice-covered sea, studded with innumerable islands. Lord Mayor’s Bay was before him, and the islands were those named by Sir John Ross ‘The Sons of the Clergy of the Church of Scotland.’
“The isthmus which connects the land to the northward with Boothia Felix is only one mile broad, and, judging by the number of stone marks set up on it, it appeared to him to be a favourite resort of the natives. Its latitude is 69° 31′ north; longitude, by account, 91° 29′ 30″ west.
“After taking possession of his discoveries with the usual formalities, the Doctor returned to his quarters on the island above-mentioned, where, as they were all more or less affected with snow-blindness, and the dogs were still weak, they remained on the island, which he found to be situated in latitude 68° 53′ 44″ north; longitude, by account, 89° 56′ 00″ west. It is formed almost entirely of granite, and is upwards of seven hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. From the highest point of it, he obtained a fine view of the bay, and was thus saved the trouble of tracing its shores. It extends sixteen or eighteen miles to the southward, and contains a number of rocky islands, the highest of them being that on which they encamped. The bay was named Pelly Bay, after the governor of the company; and the group of islands, Harrison Islands.
“The party, on their return, traced the shores of the tracts across which they had made overland journeys when coming out. The country was low, flat, and very regular in outline. They arrived at Repulse Bay on the 5th of May, all safe and well, but as black as negroes, from the combined effects of frost-bites and oil-smoke. The Doctor subsequently traced the west shore of Melville Bay, and for that purpose started on the evening of the 13th of May.
“The nature of the service, and the hardships to be endured on such expeditions, may be understood from the few short extracts from the report in reference to this last exploring visit:—‘Our snow-house, on the 25th, was built in lat. 68° 48’ N., long. 85° 4’ W., near a small stream, frozen (like all others that we had passed) to the bottom. We had not yet obtained a drop of water of nature’s thawing, and fuel being rather a scarce article, we sometimes took small kettles of snow under the blanket with us, to thaw it with the heat of our bodies. Leaving two men to endeavour to fish and shoot, I went forward with the others, and crossed Garry Bay, passing inside a number of islets.’