RAWUL PINDEE—EXPEDITION TO CASHMERE—INDIAN HEAT—VISIT OF THE AMEER OF CABUL—LADY IN A RIDING-HABIT—DEATH OF BISHOP MILMAN—ABSURD STATEMENT—PESHAWUR—CHOKEDARS—NOWSHERA—HORSE-DEALERS—M’KAY—WILD SCENE—MARCH TO CASHMERE—MURREE—FAITHLESS COOLIES—DAYWAL—TERRORS OF MY BEARER.
CHAPTER VII.
Rawul Pindee is one of the most favourite quarters, being so close to the hill station of Murree. Four hours carries one from the breathless heat of the plain to the top of a mountain, with an elevation of seven thousand four hundred and fifty-seven feet.
My wife and I were eager to make an expedition during the leave season into Cashmere. The mountains guarding the Happy Valley had stood out, a grand rampart, clear on the horizon, a great part of our march. Our plans were all arranged. Light tents were bought, and leave was obtained, when cholera made its appearance in the regiment. Of course going away then was out of the question. The married people were sent—to their great discomfort—into camp, and extraordinary precautions were taken to prevent the spread of the disease, the horrors of which we had so lately seen.
When encamped at Agra, under the outer flap of my tent, two unfortunate natives lay down and died during the night, only the canvas walls between them and us. Mercifully, the present outbreak was a slight one. But, when we could get away, there was not time left, during the leave season, for our journey to Cashmere, so we contented ourselves with a visit to Murree, the sanitorium of this district.
No one who has not experienced real hot weather in the plains, can understand what Indian heat is. It means darkness, for one thing, as every ray of light is carefully excluded. In our darkened house at Pindee, with every precaution taken, for a fortnight the thermometer never varied, night and day, from 99°. But, oh, the joy of the first rain! When doors and windows were thrown open, and we once again saw each other!
Rawul Pindee was a very hospitable place. I remember dining with one of the civilians. It was a very grand party. Everything went off charmingly. The soup was hot, the champagne well iced, and the inevitable tinned salmon, with Tartare sauce, was in abundance. As I observed that those who took salad tasted it, and left it alone, I took none. Next day my wife called on our hostess, and found her nearly in tears.
‘Oh, Mrs. Maxwell,’ she exclaimed, in horrified accents, ‘can you believe it? The khansama made the salad with castor oil!’
We were quartered a year at Rawul Pindee, and then received orders to march to Peshawur.
We remained twelve months at Peshawur, and although there was a good deal of fever, yet we did not suffer so much as the 42nd Royal Highlanders, whom we relieved, had done. During the time they were quartered there that unfortunate regiment was decimated by cholera and fever. Not only did they lose many men, but their pipers nearly all succumbed.