All forms of driving are dangerous, from piloting Dobbin in a farm-wagon, to driving a drag to a race meeting, if the coachman is ignorant, careless, and nervous. Even Dobbin may go down on his knees, or shy, and run away, if he is not looked after. But tandem driving is no more dangerous than other forms of driving, if harness, cart, and horses are suited to the sport, and the coachman is forever vigilant. There is no doubt but that most horses enjoy going this way, and the change is good for them, and it is excellent practice; none better, indeed, for their owner.
In putting two horses together in this fashion the traces of the leader may be as short as possible, say three feet from the nose of the wheeler to the croup of the leader, when the traces are taut. The leader, if a breedy-looking animal, with good neck and shoulders, may wear to advantage a breast collar, instead of a neck collar. He may, indeed, be with propriety as lightly harnessed as possible.
The origin of the tandem was a convenient way of taking a hunter to cover by putting him in the lead of a dog-cart, with his saddle and bridle carried along in the cart. Even to this day this pedigree of the tandem marks out the proper proportions and proper qualities for both wheeler and leader. The leader may thus be driven appropriately in a ring snaffle, although probably the best bits are the Liverpool or Elbow bits with the not-to-be-forgotten proviso that the wheeler's bit should have a bar across the bottom of it to prevent the wheeler catching the leader's rein under the end of the cheek-piece of his bit—a trick one of the writer's ponies soon learned, and was much mystified for days to find that the trick would not come off, after a bar had been added to the bottom of her bit. If the wheeler indulges in much shaking about of his head, he should have both a light bearing-rein and a martingale. The leader ought to be the type of horse which needs neither of these fixtures.
The whip may be lighter than the coach-whip, and 5 feet long for the stick, and 8 feet 6 inches for the lash, if you are driving ponies; 2 feet longer in the lash if driving full-sized horses.
Before attempting a tandem with any horses you happen to have in the stable, it is well to do a little training of the one you propose to use as leader. With a pair of long reins you should drive him with nothing behind him, so that he may become accustomed to moving along with no weight on his collar. Let the reins touch his quarters so that he may become accustomed to the loose traces in which he will go later. Some horses take to this way of going like ducks to water, and make no objections and few mistakes from the beginning; but it is best, in any case, to do a little training before they are put together in what must be a novel way to them. As the pressure should be less, and the loops taken smaller, in tandem driving, much of the turning may be done by the turn of the wrist and the moving of the hand from left to right, as described in the chapter on driving one horse. In turning, the points to right and left should be small, and care taken to keep your wheeler from rushing his corners, as he may so easily do with a two-wheeled trap behind him. If your leader is going off to the left too much and your wheeler to the right, push your two centre reins back a little, and this will straighten them out; or if the contrary is the case, and your leader is going to the right and your wheeler to the left, pull the two centre reins out a bit. The two centre reins are, the upper one, your off lead-rein, the lower one, your near wheel-rein.
It is more than ever necessary that the left hand should be kept in its place, and the reins held firmly in their place, otherwise your team will never be straight for long at a time. The left hand should be held as in driving four. When the right hand is used on all the reins, the little and third fingers go over the two off side reins, the middle finger over the near wheel-rein, and the first finger over the near lead-rein, thus giving the right hand control over each and all of the reins. The two off side reins may be kept together, for in tandem driving it is only necessary to make "points" when turning practically at right angles. The horses should follow one another without making a break between your leader and wheeler by having the leader at right angles to the wheeler when making a turn. Too large a loop taken with only one rein is very apt to bring your leader around too fast and too far.
Never under any circumstances have your lead traces taut when making a turn, as you may thus pull your wheeler off his feet, and in any case, when the lead traces are taut, it is your leader, and not you, who is in control. Though driving tandem is similar in the manipulation of the reins to driving four, it is on a miniature scale. Everything must be done more gently, more quietly, more quickly, and all loops or points need only be of the smallest. The wheeler should start and stop the cart, and once they are going, the wheeler should follow directly behind the leader. The reins in a tandem come into the hand much closer together than in the case of a four, where the horses, being spread out, the reins are accordingly apart. This makes the handling of tandem reins quickly, difficult. When wishing to use the right hand, if the left be pushed forward slightly it gives the right hand a chance to place itself correctly on the reins, as the reins are thus pushed slightly apart. In tandem driving it is of supreme importance to be ready in advance. Whether stopping, starting, turning, increasing, or slacking your pace, your right hand should not be fumbling to get itself on the right reins, but should be there, and ready, before it is required. A quick, nervous leader can turn, stop, start, and back like a flash. If you are not ready for him before he gets going, no mortal is quick enough to catch him afterwards. The damage is done, and your horses in a tangle while you are still groping with your right hand for the proper reins. In passing other vehicles, or any object that you think may cause your leader to shy, always have a small loop of that side rein under your thumb, and your right hand ready to put on the brakes on whichever rein requires it, instantly, before either horse can make much of a détour. A horse met at once with a rebuke is half persuaded already to come to terms. The cart, if ponies are driven, should not be too light nor too low. With wheels 4 feet 9 or 10 inches in diameter, the coachman's seat will be about 5 feet 4 from the ground. The wider the cart, up to 6 feet wide inside, the better, both for the comfort of the passengers, and because a broad track lessens the danger of upsetting. The body of the cart should be set as low on the axles as possible.
A cart with bent shafts pivoted on the front part of the cart, and adjustable behind, with wheels five feet high, and track five feet wide, will accommodate anything, from 14.2 to 16 hands, and makes, if lightly built, a good all-round two-wheel cart for all sorts of purposes. A slant of from three to four inches for the driving cushion makes a comfortable angle for the seat. If necessary, have a movable foot-rest, but on no account a rail for your feet. See, on this subject, remarks in the chapter on driving one horse. These descriptions and requirements do not purport to guide one in setting up a tandem for show purposes. This branch of the subject is dealt with completely, and with experienced competency, by Mr. Tailer in the next chapter. But tandem driving is too good a sport to be confined to the show ring. Any enterprising horse owner may put to a tandem out of his own stable without adding much to the expense of his stable, while adding greatly to the variety of sport to be got out of his establishment.