Bass
aforementioned that Burton-on-Trent in general, and the great firm of Bass are in their present flourishing condition. In the words of Shakespeare, “He was a man; take him for all in all we shall not look upon his like again.” Beginning as traveller to the firm, he was not long ere {66} he became its chief director. He was untiring in business, a man possessing the broadest views of men and things, a bit crotchety on occasion, but possessed of “that most excellent gift of charity,” in boundless supplies. Amongst his other benefactions was the building and endowment of St. Paul’s, Burton, and the gift of recreation grounds, a free library, and swimming-baths to the adjacent town of Derby. He also built and endowed another church on his own estate, at Rangemore; and his hand was never out of his cash-pocket when he could aid in a good work. He represented Derby, in the Liberal interest, from 1848 to 1883, and was a tower of strength to that party, albeit possessed of nothing like bigoted opinions. On the contrary, it was his custom through life, like Hal o’ the Wynd in The Fair Maid of Perth, to “fight for his own hand.” And as an instance of his energy and grit, it may be mentioned that after voting in the House of Commons for Mr. Gladstone’s Irish Church Disestablishment Bill—the division on which did not take place till 2 A.M.—he travelled by the “newspaper train” at 5 A.M. from Euston to Rugeley in order to hunt with Mr. Hugo Meynell Ingram’s hounds, later in the morning, changing his clothes on the way down. The meet was at Brereton Hayes, close to Cunnock Chase, and I well remember greeting him that morning, and receiving for a reply: “Thank you, I’m pretty well for an old ’un.” He was over seventy (I think) at the time. That was three decades ago; and since then the trade of Bass has increased enormously. {67} For the annual holiday of the staff I should be afraid to state from memory how many special trains are required to convey the great hive of workers to Brighton, and other far-distant watering-places, and back to Burton again. In short, it would be hard to find a spot in the inhabited world in which the name of Bass is not known and respected.
I mentioned further back Scotch and English barleys as being employed for malting purposes; but as a matter of fact the produce of many countries is used, in a blend, the whole being divided into two classes, heavy and light. And in making choice of barleys it is necessary that they should be thoroughly and equally ripened, well “got” or harvested, and as far as possible presented to the brewer in the perfect husk or envelope with which nature has furnished the kernel. Ancient and modern modes of thrashing and dressing to a greater or less extent damage both the husk and the kernel, and thus at the very threshold introduce one of the causes of disease. Whenever the grain is broken or bruised it is liable to be attacked when moist by a variety of moulds which lead to more or less serious disaster.
Of the different varieties of beer, “pale ale” or “bitter” is a highly-hopped beer made from the very finest selected malt and hops; whilst “mild ale,” or as it is called in Scotland “sweet ale,” is of greater gravity or strength, and is comparatively lightly hopped. “Old ale” is, naturally, the best stuff that can be brewed, in a state of maturity; and it is a peculiarity of ale {68} that, securely bottled, it will keep its strength far longer than any other fermented drink. In December 1889 some bottles of beer were found walled up in a cellar at Burton-on-Trent; and the records of the firm, as well as the shape of the bottles, shewed that the beer had been brewed nearly a hundred years before. It was as bright as a sunbeam, and quite drinkable, but had lost its bitterness, and assumed the character of sherry. But old ale, like old brandy, is of little value to the toper, in that it takes a very minute quantity to accomplish in him the desired effect—oblivion. “Audit” ales and “college” ditto require very delicate handling of the jug; and I have tasted ancient beer in Allsopp’s cellars in Burton, a wine-glassful of which would probably have put a coal-whipper on his back. It was the colour of mahogany and oh! so seductive.
Porter, as most people know, is a black beer, brewed in much the same manner as the other stuff, with roasted malt to give it colour; whilst stout is simply a superior kind of porter. As for the lager beer of the Fatherland it is fermented at a very low temperature, the fermentation being longer delayed. Some years ago great stress was laid on the German system of mashing called the “thick mash,” which consisted of boiling or cooking a portion of the mash, and running it back and remixing it with the portion left in the tun; but it is now found possible to brew the finest lager beer with a slight modification of our own mashing method.
The sons of Britannia for a considerable period held aloof from this lager, which was {69} pronounced by some to be mere “hogwash,” and by others to consist principally of the juice of fir-cones and onions mixed with snow-water. The fir-cone flavour is, I believe, accounted for by the “pitching” of the barrels in which the beer is stored; but I don’t know where the oniony flavour comes from. The prejudice against this beer has long since departed from our midst; in fact it has become quite a favourite summer drink. It is generally considered less intoxicating than its English cousin. In fact the German students are in the habit of putting huge quantities thereof out of sight, on the occasion of passing examinations, and public rejoicings; and these “beer-drinkings” are, apparently, fully sanctioned by the authorities.
It has been written that it is to Dean Nowell, “classed by Fuller among the worthies of England,” that we are indebted for the discovery of bottled beer. According to Fuller, “this worthy, who was an enthusiastic fisherman, was one day angling in the Thames; but at the very time when he was trying to catch perch to carry to the frying-pan, that benighted bigot Bishop Bonner was trying to catch him to tie him to the stake for purposes of cremation, to the glory of the old religion. The reverend gentleman heard that he was ‘wanted,’ left his fishing, and fled as far from the Thames as he could, leaving untasted in a safe place a bottle of beer which he had filled in the morning. Bonner’s day did not last long, and Dean Nowell was soon able to return to his old haunts. Fishing as usual, he went to look after his bottle of beer, and {70} found that it had turned into a species of gun—it exploded its contents, when touched.” Thus Nature, which is ever kind, turned the martyrdom and misery of Bloody Mary’s reign to good—it brought about bottled beer. The Dean unbosomed himself of his great discovery to his clerical friends, and the clergy let it out gradually to the laity.
Gervase Markham, the aforementioned contemporary of Shakespeare, gives the following directions to “the English Housewife” of 1631, for
Brewing of Bottle-Ale.
Touching the brewing of Bottle-ale, it differeth nothing at all from the brewing of strong Ale, onely it must be drawne in a larger proportion, as at least twenty gallons of halfe a quarter; and when it comes to be changed, you shall blinke it (as was before shewed) more by much than was the strong Ale, for it must bee pretty and sharpe, which giveth the life and quicknesse to the Ale: and when you tunne it, you shall put it into round bottles with narrow mouthes, and then stopping them close with corke, set them in a cold sellar up to the wast in sand, and be sure that the corkes be fast tied in with strong packe-thrid, for feare of rising out, or taking vent, which is the utter spoyle of the Ale.
Now for the small drinke arising from this Bottle-ale, or any other beere or ale whatsoever, if you keep it after it is blinckt and boyled in a close vessell, and then put it to barme every morning as you have occasion to use it, the drinke will drinke a great deale the fresher, and be much more lively in taste. {71}