MOURNING
THERE IS ROOM for so much variety in the expression of personal tastes as to the matter of mourning that hard-and-fast rules are of doubtful value. There is, however, some degree of exactness as to the dress suitable for widows, although, even in this connection, individual choice and the changes of fashion exert their influence to the display of differing modes.
The widow’s mourning may be divided into three periods, termed respectively first, second and third.
The first mourning includes the entire costume in black. Usually, the material of the dress is of worsted, with a trimming of crêpe. The black bonnet is of crêpe, and from it hangs a long veil, also of crêpe. Formerly, these veils were of extreme length, reaching even to the hem of the gown. The tendency has been, however, toward shortening the veil, and the present fashion insists on only a moderate length. Another veil, worn over the face, was formerly both long and heavy, but the style has been modified, and at present it is of lighter texture and of much briefer proportions. The bonnet has white ruching within the front edge, and the gown is trimmed with sheer white cuffs, and a collar of the same material.
The gloves must be of dull black, and ornaments of dull jet, with a black-bordered handkerchief.
This first mourning should be worn for a full year. A change may then be made to second mourning, in which the dress may be of crêpe de chine or dull silk, with a hat carrying black chiffon, etc., and ornaments of dull jet.
The third mourning is assumed after another six months. In this white and lilac are permitted to relieve the somberness of the attire. This mourning is worn for a period of six months, also, after which colors may be resumed.