Fig. 25.
Fig. 26.
Try to hammer in such a way as to flange the tin over evenly from the scribed line. The mallet blows should be directed in toward the line which always rests at the edge of the block, rather than toward the edge of the tin.
When the edge has been turned over as far as indicated in [Fig. 25], No. III, change the position of the tray and rest the bottom of it on the top of the block and hammer gently on the edge as indicated in [Fig. 25] until the edge or flange stands out at right angles to the side of the tray. Continue hammering until the edge of the tray stands at about the angle indicated in [Fig. 25], No. V.
Remove the maple block from the vise and secure a round wooden mallet in it, the mallet being about 2½ or 3 inches in diameter, or a piece of iron pipe, if held in the vise, may be used for an anvil instead of the mallet.
Hang the tray over the end of the mallet or pipe and hold it firmly in position, turning it slowly around the anvil as the edge is hammered down to the side of the tray, [Fig. 26].
Do not try to hammer the edge down all at once, but go entirely around the turned flange or edge several times with the mallet, hammering very lightly and bending the edge down more each time the tray is hammered around. The flanges or turned part will wrinkle slightly during the turning, but if the edge has been turned evenly and slowly from the start, this wrinkling will not matter, as the wrinkles will gradually hammer out. Try to hammer in such a way that the edge or top of the tray will remain rounded and not get hammered together ([Fig. 27]).
When the edge is turned completely in and touches the sides, reverse the forming mallet and use the wedge-shaped end to hammer the wrinkles out, taking care to hammer inside the edge so as not to flatten the edge of the tray, [Fig. 28]. The edge should look like [Fig. 27], and then your tray is finished and ready to be boiled up in the lye solution and painted.