Fig. 44.
Take up another half can and make a cut from the edge down to the flange at the bottom as shown in [Fig. 45]. Take an old pair of flat-nosed pliers and hold it over an open flame, such as a gas range or the flame of a soldering copper heater, until the solder shows in a bright line at the joint of the can and lid, then take the forming mallet and give the lid at the bottom a sharp tap or two with it which should knock the lid away from the sides of the can held by the pliers, see [Fig. 45]. Do not use your good pliers to hold the can over the flame, as the heat will soon take the temper out of them and render them useless.
It is not necessary to get the can red hot in order to melt the solder.
Fig. 45.
Fig. 46.
When the lid is removed, try to fit it on the other part of the can and it will be found impossible to force the tin into the lid without denting the sides of the can. The rim or flange at the edge of the lid must be enlarged in order to place the lid back on the can. The edge of the sides of the can to be fitted into the lid should be filed with a small flat file to remove the tin raised by the metal shears when cutting around the can.
To enlarge the rim of the lid, place it over a piece of pipe held in a vise and hammer the rim with a light hammer, turning the lid slowly around on the anvil as you hammer, see [Fig. 46]. After hammering completely around the flange once or twice, try to fit the lid to the can again. It should fit without much hammering. Squeeze the lid on the can and hammer it gently into place, the wheel being placed flat on the bench at the time. Solder the lid in place and the wheel is finished except for the axle holes.