The second wheel is placed on the axle and soldered to it as the first wheel was. The truck may be placed on its side to bring the second wheel into a convenient position for soldering. Be sure that the axle turns easily in the axle holes and that there is plenty of room for the washers between the sides of the frame and the wheel before soldering the second wheel in place. The second wheel may be soldered on the second axle in the same way and then the chassis is finished and ready to run, see [Fig. 73].
Various bodies may be placed on the rear of the chassis and a steering wheel, crank and lights may be added when it is thus far successfully completed, and these will be described in the next chapter.
Do not be discouraged if you have managed to get more solder about the truck than seems necessary, as it may be scraped away as described in [Chapter XXI, page 200].
CHAPTER XIV
Making a Toy Auto Truck (Continued)
TRUCK BODIES—DIFFERENT TYPES OF BODIES TO BE FITTED TO THE SAME CHASSIS—THE TANK TRUCK—THE STREET SPRINKLER—THE COAL OR SAND TRUCK—THE ARMY TRUCK—THE AMBULANCE—THE FIRE ENGINE
A permanent body of a certain type may be soldered directly to the rear part of the chassis or slides may be soldered to the rear part of the chassis and different types of truck bodies arranged to fit into these slides so that one chassis may be arranged to hold a number of different bodies. A coal truck may be transformed into a tank truck and from a tank truck into an army truck or an ambulance, etc.
A driver’s cab may be fitted over the seat and any number of realistic details added to the truck, limited only by the ability of the maker.
The wagon body is the simplest to make, as it may be made from a square can with rounded corners. The two quart or gallon cans that have contained olive or cooking oils make up into very realistic truck bodies. The body of the army truck shown in the frontispiece was made from a two-quart can that had contained a cooking oil of a very well-known brand.