While mentioning this, I cannot help calling to mind the exaggerated and untruthful statements which were made some years ago in reference to Dr. Lindemann’s alleged discovery of “gregarines” upon false hair, and their rapid procreation. The effect produced was most prejudicial to hairdressers, until, after a few weeks had elapsed, it came to be regarded as “one of those things which no fella could understand.” Let me here observe that I have not seen a gregarine, neither have I been able to procure one from the source indicated by the learned Russian professor, nor could I ever meet with a scientific gentleman who had a specimen of the kind in his possession. Indeed, I might go a little farther, and say that I have been unable to discover any one who has even seen a gregarine, although the “Micrographic Dictionary” informs me that they are to be obtained from about eighty different sources. Such, then, is their insignificant character and appearance when viewed under a powerful glass. This scare was soon followed by the so-called “chignon fungus,” which brought forth a most interesting disquisition upon the subject by Dr. Tilbury Fox, at one of the learned societies; but the fungoid growth that was found upon a particular piece of hair had nothing whatever to do with a chignon, as an examination of a portion of the same hair now in my possession would readily prove.
The good condition of hair is taken into consideration by professional hair merchants, for their very success in business depends on the unmistakably clean and glossy appearance of the article in which they deal. I would urge, therefore, all hairdressers who carry on a respectable trade, and are desirous of improving it, to purchase hair of first-rate quality only, and only to buy it of those who study to well prepare it for their use. They should avoid, if possible, having anything to do with the common rubbish which now and again finds its way into the market, and will thus be able to give a good article for a fair and remunerative price. It may be said, however, that all in the hairdressing profession are not able to go or send to some depôt in the vicinity for every little requirement; neither is it convenient for them to keep in stock hair of every shade or length. Besides, they may have a quantity of “cuttings” (not “combings,” mark you!) which should be utilised and, after careful treatment, made up for sale. It is, then, to such tradesmen that I desire to speak, and hope my remarks will be found useful in the course of their business career.
CHAPTER II.
The Implements Used in Preparing Hair—The Preparation of Hair Described—Washing the Hair—Drying the Hair—Drawing the Hair—Nitting the Hair—Carding the Hair—Curling the Hair—Boiling and Baking the Hair.
I will assume that the larger portion of my readers are well acquainted with the various implements and tools used in the trade, but as this book will, no doubt, be brought prominently under the notice of apprentices and improvers, a brief description of such things is not altogether unnecessary.
A “card” is made with a thick wooden base, into which a large number of steel prongs or spikes, about two or three inches deep, have been firmly set, and it is used for carding or smoothing hair. The possession of a pair of good drawing-brushes is also most important. They should be large and heavy, and well filled with the best bristles. These brushes are made of various sizes, but as they are so necessary and useful, I would recommend the purchase of a good article, and of fair proportions.[[2]] A “nitting machine” reminds one of a small-tooth comb, for its purpose is similar. It is made of brass, fitted with screws to be turned with the thumb and finger, and these hold together or open at will a closely-set number of steel teeth. This compact little instrument is intended to be fixed, when in use, to the front of the “card,” so that the whole length of hair may be passed through it several times. A “jigger” is wanted when piping or curling hair. It is a piece of hard wood, about seven or eight inches long, three inches wide, and half-an-inch in thickness. There are to be three holes, in the form of a triangle, towards the upper end, through which ordinary screws are passed to fix it securely to the work-table or bench. About three inches of this piece of wood or “jigger” must be allowed to project, and through the projecting part two holes are to be made in a line with each other. A piece of strong string is to be passed through these two holes, tied in a knot, and extend to within a couple of inches of the floor. The “pipes,” for curling hair, are about three-and-a-half inches in length, and the thickness of a lead pencil. Formerly they were made of earthenware clay, but common tobacco-pipe, pieces of cane, or, better still, willow, with the bark stripped off, answer every purpose. In addition to the foregoing, a dozen or more pieces of wood, about twelve or fifteen inches long and one inch square, will be required, together with vessels for boiling hair, tins or dishes for baking hair, plenty of string, a dressing comb or two, scissors, etc., and an old razor-blade, well-set in a handle, allowing two inches of the blade to appear, will all be useful. Soft soap, and some of the best Scotch soda, together with hot and cold water, must also be provided.
Let me suppose that the reader has a small stock of hair by him, which he is desirous of bringing into use. It may have been accumulating for some time, and is, probably, of divers lengths and colours. It should be collected together, and the first thing to do is to get the hair thoroughly clean, so as to prepare it for after manipulation. Separate the different qualities first, should there be any variation in that respect, and put all the coarse hair into one lot, and all the fine into another. In the event of a piece of hair being rather more bulky than the rest, divide it, so as to have each piece about the same size and not any thicker than can be washed and dried in an easy, as well as effectual manner. Tie every piece with string moderately tight and securely fastened, but loose enough for the tie to slide up and down a little when the hair is being washed, otherwise, some portion of the hair will be clean, and where tied, dirty. Before washing, it is better to give each piece a rough “carding,” so as to prevent its matting together, and probably breaking the longer hair in its disentanglement.
The foregoing instructions having been attended to, provide two pails or basins of hot water—as hot as the hand can bear—and into each one put a tolerable quantity of soft-soap and soda—the best Scotch soda if it can be obtained. Place a few pieces of the hair into one vessel to soak, so that the dirt and grease upon it may be more easily removed. Take up one of the pieces, and holding it as a boy would a stick, between the thumb and fingers, commence rubbing it in washerwoman style, and, at the same time, working it gradually from one end to the other. Do not forget to slip the tie occasionally, and if this process be carefully performed, a great deal of the grease and dirt will have been removed. This imperfectly cleaned piece can then be passed into the second vessel. Proceed in the same way throughout, changing the water frequently, or as soon as it becomes foul and unfit for use. When all the hair has been washed twice in the manner described, clean the pails or basins, and fill them with fresh water—hot in one, and tepid in the other. This is for rinsing purposes, and the last water must not be soapy, for so long as that is the case other water must be procured. It is of the utmost importance to remove all grease, soap, or dirt from the hair, and the greatest particularity should be exercised in this preliminary operation.
The hair can be dried either in the sun, in a warm room, or before a fire. If in the sun, and, of course, in the open air, each piece should be fastened separately to a line, and left to blow about in the wind for a few hours, or, in other words, till it is quite dry. If the drying process be carried on in a warm room, let the hair hang near to the ceiling, and avoid making a dust: but should an oven, or drying before the fire, be more convenient, turn the hair frequently, and mind it does not get scorched or burnt. Both these operations having been duly attended to, see that the “card” and “drawing-brushes” are perfectly clean, for the next process is that of drawing the hair.