Pre-eminent among vegetables stands the potato.
The solid matter of potatoes consists largely of starch, with a small quantity of albumen and mineral salts. Potatoes also contain an acid juice, the greater portion of which lies near the skin. This bitter principle is set free by heat. While potatoes are being boiled, it passes into the water; in baking it escapes with the steam.
New potatoes may be compared to unripe fruit, as the starch grains are not fully matured. Potatoes are at their best in the fall, and they keep well during the winter. In the spring, when germination commences, the starch changes to dextrin or gum, rendering the potato more waxy when cooked, and the sugar then formed makes them sweeter. When the potatoes are frozen, the same change takes place.
In the spring, when potatoes are shriveled and gummy, soaking improves them, as the water thus absorbed dissolves the gum, and makes them less sticky. At other times, long soaking is undesirable.
Soak about half an hour in the fall, one to three hours in winter and spring. Never serve potatoes, whether boiled or baked, in a closely covered dish, as they thus become sodden and clammy; but cover with a folded napkin, and allow the moisture to escape. They require about forty-five minutes to one hour to bake, if of a good size, and should be served promptly when done.
BAKED POTATOES
Potatoes are either baked in their jackets or peeled; in either case they should not be exposed to a fierce heat, inasmuch as thereby a great deal of the vegetable is scorched and rendered uneatable. They should be frequently turned while being baked, and kept from touching one another in the oven or dish. When they are pared, they should be baked in a dish, and oil of some kind added, to prevent their outsides from becoming burned.
MASHED POTATOES
Pare and boil or steam six or eight large potatoes. If boiled, drain when tender, and let set in the kettle for a few minutes, keeping them covered, shaking the kettle occasionally to prevent scorching. Mash with a wire potato masher, or, if convenient, press through a colander; add salt, a lump of butter, and sufficient hot milk to moisten thoroughly. Whip with the batter whip, or wooden spoon, until light and fluffy. Heap up on a plate, press a lump of butter into the top, and send to the table hot.