James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 2

by Edwin James; Stephen H. Long; Thomas Say

On the morning of the 9th [8th] of July[147] we resumed our journey, travelling somewhat east of south along a small tributary of the Platte. The bed of this stream lies from south to north along a narrow valley, bounded on each side by high cliffs of sandstone. The rock is similar to that already mentioned, its strata having, however, less inclination than is observed nearer the base of the mountain. It is the margin of that great formation of secondary which occupies the plain, and appears as if broken off and thrown into an inclined position by some convulsion which changed the relative elevation of {198} the stratum. It is of great thickness, its laminæ in an almost vertical position, covering a surface of two or three, and sometimes many miles in width. On the eastern declivities of the first ranges of hills in places which may be supposed to have occupied the surface of the stratum in its original position, the rock is usually of a close grain and compact texture, and of a yellowish white or light gray colour.

We observed, in various parts of the valley which traverse this sandstone district, several detached columnar masses, many of them bearing a striking resemblance to colossal ruins; also some insulated hills with perpendicular sides and level summits. These seem to be the remains of an extensive portion of the sandstone stratum which formerly covered the country to the level of their highest summits. They occur at considerable distance from the base of the primitive mountain, and their summits are occupied by horizontal strata of sandstone; for a small portion of the upper part of their elevation their sides are nearly perpendicular, but their bases are surrounded by an extensive accumulation of débris sometimes rising nearly to the summit. After ascending the small stream before mentioned to its source, we crossed an inconsiderable ridge which separates it from the valley of Defile Creek. This we ascended to the place where its principal branch descends from the mountains. Here we encamped with the intention of resting on the following day, which was Sunday.[148]

July 10th [9th]. A beautiful species of pigeon was shot near the mountain. The head is of a purplish cinereous colour; the back of the neck, and its sides, brilliant golden-green; the feathers at base brownish purple; above this patch, and at base of head, is a white semi-band; the under part of the neck is pale vinaceous purplish; this colour becomes paler as it approaches the vent, which, with the inferior tail coverts, is white; anterior portion of the back, the {199} wing coverts and scapulars are brownish ash; the larger wing feathers dark brown, approaching black; the exterior edges whitish; the lower part of the back, the rump and tail coverts, inferior wing coverts and sides, bluish ash; paler beneath the wings; the shafts of the body-feathers and tail coverts are remarkably robust, tapering rather suddenly near the tips; the tail is medial, rounded at tip, consisting of twelve feathers, a definite black band at two-thirds their length from the base, before which the colour is bluish ash, and behind it dirty whitish; the bill is yellow, tipped with black, and somewhat gibbous behind the nostrils; the irides red; the feet yellow; claws black.

This species seems to be most intimately connected to the ring-tailed pigeon (C. caribæa), from which it differs in the colour of the legs and bill, and in not having the gibbosity at the base of the latter so remarkable. It is possible that it may be an intermediate link between the ring-tailed pigeon and the stock pigeon of Europe, with the latter of which it has, in common, the exterior white edging to the greater wing feathers. It may be distinguished by the name of band-tailed pigeon (columba fasciata, Say); and may be seen, with other specimens of natural objects collected on this expedition, in the Philadelphia Museum.

Several of the tributaries to Defile creek appear to discharge as much water as is seen in the stream below their junction. This appearance is common to many of the larger creeks, their broad and sandy beds allowing much of the water to sink, and pass off through the sand. In the evening, a favourable opportunity, the first for several days, presented, and observations for latitude were taken.

That part of Defile creek, near which we encamped, is filled with dams, thrown across by the beaver, causing it to appear rather like a succession of ponds than a continued stream. As we ascended {200} farther towards the mountains, we found the works of these animals still more frequent. The small willows and cotton-wood trees, which are here in considerable numbers, afford them their most favourite food.

At no great distance to the east of our camp was one of these peculiar hills above mentioned. In visiting it we crossed a ridge of sandstone, about three hundred feet in height, with strata inclined to the west. To this succeeds a valley, about one mile wide, having a scanty growth of pine and oak. The ascent of the hill is steep and rugged. Horizontal strata of sandstone and coarse conglomerate are exposed on its sides, and the summit is capped by thin stratum of compact sandstone, surmounted by a bed of greenstone trap, or trappea porphyry. The loose and splintery fragments of this rock sometimes cover the surface, making a clinking noise under the feet, like fragments of pottery.

The summit of this hill is of an oval form, about eight hundred yards in length and five hundred in breadth. Its surface is undulating, and is terminated on all sides by perpendicular precipices. The elevation of the hill is about one thousand feet, and the height of the perpendicular precipices, from the summit of the débris to the top of hill, about fifty.

From the top of this hill, the high peak mentioned by Captain Pike, was discovered, and its bearing found to be S. 50. W.

Several of the party ascended Defile creek until they arrived at the mountains, into which they penetrated as far as was found practicable. As they travelled along the bed of this, they found the several rock formations beautifully exposed, and in the following order.