[VERTICAL SECTION on the PARALLEL of LATITUDE 41 degrees North]
intended as a continuation of MACLURE'S third Section from the sea-shore to the summit of the Alleghenies.
[VERTICAL SECTION on the PARALLEL of LATITUDE 35 degrees North]
intended as a continuation of MACLURE'S fifth Section.
No part of the earth, it is probable, presents a greater degree of simplicity and uniformity in the structure and conformation of its surface than North America. The mountain ranges are here distinct, forming each its own particular system, and preserving severally, through their whole extent, a similarity in external appearance, as well as in the structure and aggregation of the various rocks of which they are composed.
The outlines of a physical delineation of the continent of North America would present, first, the great chain of the Rocky Mountains, evidently a continuation of the Andes of the southern hemisphere, stretching parallel to the direction of the western coast from the isthmus of Panama to the northern ocean. Their summits penetrating far into the regions of perpetual winter, look down upon the vast plains of the Mississippi and its tributaries; in which we distinguish a comparatively inconsiderable range of rocky hills, commencing near the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, and running south-west of the Gulf of Mexico, near the estuary of the Rio del Norte. Beyond these, the surface subsides to a plain, stretching eastward to the commencement of the great chain of the Alleghanies. The range of the Alleghanies, far less elevated and alpine than that of the Rocky Mountains, traverses the continent in a direction nearly parallel to the Atlantic ocean, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the north-east, to the confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee rivers, in the south-west. Compared to the Rocky Mountains, this range is without summits, presenting, instead of conic peaks, long and level ridges, rising in no point to the inferior limit of perpetual frost, and scarce in any instance reaching that degree of {274} elevation which is incompatible with the growth of forests.
In many particulars there is a manifest resemblance between the Alleghanies, and the comparatively inconsiderable group known by the name of the Ozark mountains. They are parallel in direction, making an angle of about forty degrees with the great range of the Andes. They agree in having their most elevated portions made up of rocks of recent formation. It is well known, that, from the highly primitive gneiss rock at Philadelphia, there is a gradual ascent, across strata more and more recent, to the rocks of the coal formation, about the summit of the Alleghanies. Whether the same thing happens in every part of the range, our examinations have not yet been extensive enough to decide. We know that some of the granitic mountains of New England are far surpassed in elevation by the neighbouring hills and ridges of mica slate, talcose rocks, or even more recent aggregates.
In the Ozark mountains, as far as they have been hitherto explored, the granites and more ancient rocks are found at the lowest parts, being surmounted by those of a more recent date, the newest horizontal sandstone, and strata of compact limestone, forming the highest summits. What we wish to remark is, that the reverse of this being the case with the Rocky Mountains, the granite there far surpassing, both in extent and elevation, all the other aggregates forming the central and higher portions of all the ridges, that range has a character very distinct from the Ozark or Alleghany mountains.
It has been suggested by Major Long, that the hydrography of the upper portion of the Missouri seems to indicate the existence of a mountain range, approaching that river from the south-west, near the great northern bend, in the country of the Mandans. From Lewis and Clarke we have also some accounts tending to the confirmation of this opinion. Further {275} examination may perhaps prove this third range, called the Black hills, to resemble in direction and general character the Alleghany and Ozark mountains. The Rocky Mountains have not inaptly been called the backbone of the continent: these three lateral ranges, going off at an angle of about forty degrees, may with equal propriety be called the ribs. In latitude 38° north, the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains is found to be in about 106° west longitude: following the same parallel of latitude eastward, you arrive at the base of the Ozark mountains, nearly in longitude 94°. The intervening space, occupying the extent of near twelve degrees of longitude, is a wide and desolate plain, destitute of timber; scorched in summer by the reverberation of the rays of the sun, howled over in winter by the frozen west winds from the Rocky Mountains.
Though we have assumed twelve degrees of longitude as the medium width of this great plain, it is to be remarked, that to many parts of it our examinations have not been extended. In the latitude of 41°, no mountain, and scarce an elevation deserving the name of a hill, occurs between the western range of the Alleghanies and the Rocky Mountains. But at no great distance north of this parallel, low ranges of hills begin to appear in the region south-west of Lake Michigan; and though too inconsiderable in point of elevation to deserve particular notice, still they exhibit peculiar characters, which seem to designate an intimate connection with the Ozark mountains, south of the Missouri. The same succession of strata, the same alternation of crystalline beds, with those of mechanical deposition, and similar depositories of metallic ores, are observed here, as in the regions about the Merameg and St. Francis. A marked difference is also, as we think, to be discovered between the rocks and soils on the different sides of this range. Of this we shall speak more {276} particularly in another place. For our present purpose, it is sufficient to assume as a boundary of the region we propose first to consider, a line running from the confluence of the Arkansa and Canadian rivers on the south-west, to the junction of the Mississippi and Wisconsan, on the north-east. Assuming this as the direction of the range of the Ozark mountains, it will be perceived, by examining the map, that to the north-west of this line spreads an extensive plain, reaching to the base of the Rocky Mountains. This plain has been crossed in three different places by the exploring party, as already detailed in our narrative; once in ascending by the River Platte, between latitude 40° and 41° 30´; again, in descending the Arkansa, in 38°; and, thirdly, by the route of the Canadian, in 34°. To the information collected in these journeys, we have added a little from other sources; but the greater part of this extensive region yet remains unknown.