Another form of mantel clock is suggested in [Fig. 171]. It is radically different from the others, and is characterized by a long, low, and massive base cut from a solid piece of wood 13⁄4 inches thick or built up of two 7⁄8-inch pieces of red gum, black walnut, or mahogany. The outline having been drawn on the planed surface, one must saw as close to the line as possible, and finish the line with chisel, gouge, file, and sand-paper. The circular piece, which is to enclose the clock, is cut from a block of the same material, two inches thick. Draw the two circles, and bore the inner one with an extension bit, unless a turning lathe is available. In that case the circular block can be turned with great accuracy. The outline can be cut with the chisel after being sawed close to the line, and finished in the same way as the base.
Fig. 171. Mantel clock
Glue this block in position, resting it in the semicircular opening provided in the base, and making it project 1⁄8 or 1⁄4 of an inch beyond the front surface of the base. Polish to a dead, flat finish.
As the clock is to fit snugly into the opening, the legs, and the handle at the top, must be removed.
THE GRANDFATHERS' CLOCK
One of the most interesting problems in clock case designing is a miniature of the tall clock of colonial times, commonly known as the grandfathers' clock. It is a simple and satisfactory form, but it is very important to have good proportions.
The dimensions used by our boys are given in the drawing. ([Fig. 172]). As in all the other designs, it is based or built up around the ordinary nickel-plated clock, whose outside diameter is 21⁄4 inches. With a circle of this diameter as a starter, the other sizes work out as given in the drawing.
About the only fault likely to be found with this form is top heaviness, as the clock is some fifteen inches above its base. This can be counteracted by boring a hole in the back, two or three inches above the bottom, and pouring in about a pound of shot or other heavy material.