One of the remaining partitions is placed in the upper end, as in a box, one edge flush with the back. The entire back of the case must be in a straight line. The end just inserted will project out in front a quarter of an inch. Place the remaining partition 31⁄8 inches down from the extreme top of the box. This will bring it to rest against the front, which is only 141⁄2 inches high.
The compartment for holding the clock is now complete, open front and back.
The base may next be prepared, taking care to have the grain running up and down. The front piece of the base is 4 × 4 × 1⁄2 inches. Side pieces of base are 4 × 2 × 1⁄2 . These three pieces are to be put together with a butt joint, as shown in the bottom view, and fastened with one-inch brads and a little glue. Four 3⁄4-inch brads can be used on each of the three sides to hold the base to the box. It is very important that the bottom be perfectly square. It should be tested and, if necessary, squared with a block plane.
The cove moulding for upper and lower parts may now be prepared. Square up one piece of stock 18 inches or 20 × 3⁄8 inches square. Draw a quarter circle with a radius of 5⁄16-inch on each end, and remove the wood in this space with a gouge. Finish with sand-paper. This moulding is fitted around the three sides at top of base with a back saw and mitre box. Put it in place with 3⁄4-inch brads and glue, and carefully remove any trace of glue that may appear, before it hardens.
The moulding for the upper part cannot be placed until the top is finished.
After squaring up the face, draw the outline directly on the wood. The curves at the top should be first laid out carefully on stiff paper, cut out with scissors, and traced on the wood.
The opening for the clock, 21⁄4 inches diameter, must be bored first. Either a sharp centre bit or an extension bit should be used. If the latter, an 1⁄8-inch hole must be bored at the centre, otherwise the tapering spur of the extension bit will surely split the thin wood. This is the most delicate operation in the whole process, and the circular opening will need smoothing with a sand-paper block.
Having succeeded in getting a satisfactory opening, the outline is sawed close to the lines with a coping saw and finished with sand-paper.
The supplementary pieces s s, 31⁄2 × 21⁄4 × 1⁄4 inches, are next fastened to the sides at the top. They are flush with the top of the box and with the bottom of the face piece just described. It is to these that the front is mainly fastened. Test the bottom edges of these pieces across both the front and back with a try square. Fasten the front to these and to the top of the box with brads, and add the moulding, as shown in drawing. If the front panel is to be carved, that should be done before either the base or the top is put on; and if it is to be inlaid, the front should be increased in thickness to 3⁄8 inches, reducing the sides to 15⁄8 inches in place of 13⁄4 inches.
After the assembling is finished, set all the brads, and fill the holes with putty, coloured to match the wood. Either an oil or wax finish can be used, but a high polish is not advisable. All lines on the front, which are not edges, can be cut with a veining tool.