Fig. 174. Hemstitching, second step

Measure up from the edge of one side five eighths of an inch and draw out four threads one at a time. The other three sides must also be treated in like manner. After measuring the first side with the tape measure the other sides are more accurately measured by turning up one corner of the side that has the thread drawn so that it forms a right angle. The upper edge of the angle must just touch the drawn threads. Crease firmly along the diagonal as shown in the diagram. Now with the piece still folded over pull the first thread of the second side of the handkerchief so that the corner when turned back forms a perfect square ([Figure 173]).

When the threads of the four sides have been drawn fold back one eighth of an inch, then make a double fold so that the hem is just one-quarter inch wide. Baste it down so that the folded edge lies right under the drawn threads. With your needle threaded with a piece of No. 100 sewing cotton, start from one corner. Let the end of your threaded needle fall between the two thicknesses of the material. Bring the needle through the edge of the hem. Work from right to left; pass the needle under four of the upright threads. Now pass again under the same group of four threads, but this time carry the needle through the edge. Hem directly on a line with the fourth thread of the group ([Figure 174]).

Fig. 175. Another way to hemstitch

Another way is to hold the material with the hem toward you and work from left to right. Pass the needle under four threads letting the thread in the needle fall under the point of the needle. Pull the needle through, thus forming a loop and taking a stitch into the hem in the usual way ([Figure 175]).

If your thread gives out or breaks, start the next thread by working over two or three of the stitches.