Hooks are sometimes caught into loops, but they are made directly on the material instead of sewed on the edge. The strands of thread, however, are not as loose as the buttonloops. The diagram ([Figure 75]) of the two loops will convey a clear idea of how the threads are spanned and covered.
The last step in sewing is cutting from a given pattern. An old garment that fits well, ripped apart makes an excellent pattern and requires very little fitting. Press the pieces before using them as a pattern. Lay the material so that the selvage runs lengthwise, that is, from head to foot. Only one half of the garment is necessary for a pattern, as the material is doubled or folded lengthwise ([Figure 76]). The centre front of the skirt or waist is always placed on the fold of the material and either basted or pinned down before cutting.
Fig. 76. The centre front on fold
Collars, cuffs, bands, and sleeves are cut with the selvage running their length. Cut any part of a garment such as sleeves, waist, or skirt through two thicknesses of material so that both sides will be exactly alike. This does not refer to the front gore of a skirt. When the material has a right and wrong side the right sides should face each other before cutting the pattern.
Handkerchiefs or frills should be cut along a thread so that the edges may be perfectly straight.
Be sure that the material lies perfectly flat under the pattern. Pin the centre first to keep it from slipping before pinning the edges. Pin the entire garment before cutting anything, so that you can be sure that your material will be sufficient. This also gives you an opportunity to see where to put the smaller pieces and economize with the material.
A large pair of scissors should be used in cutting. The blunt-pointed blade is next to the board or table. It is well to practise on paper and plan the pattern before using the pattern on the cloth.