Three Years in Tibet

by Ekai Kawaguchi

[CONTENTS.]

CHAPTER		PAGE
I.	Novel farewell Presents.	[1]
II.	A Year in Darjeeling.	[11]
III.	A foretaste of Tibetan barbarism.	[15]
IV.	Laying a false scent.	[21]
V.	Journey to Nepāl.	[25]
VI.	I befriend Beggars.	[35]
VII.	The Sublime Himālaya.	[40]
VIII.	Dangers ahead.	[44]
IX.	Beautiful Tsarang and Dirty Tsarangese.	[51]
X.	Fame and Temptation.	[60]
XI.	Tibet at Last.	[69]
XII.	The World of Snow.	[77]
XIII.	A kind old Dame.	[81]
XIV.	A holy Cave-Dweller.	[86]
XV.	In helpless Plight.	[90]
XVI.	A Foretaste of distressing Experiences.	[96]
XVII.	A Beautiful Rescuer.	[99]
XVIII.	The Lighter Side of the Experiences.	[104]
XIX.	The largest River of Tibet.	[108]
XX.	Dangers begin in Earnest.	[112]
XXI.	Overtaken by a Sand-Storm.	[116]
XXII.	22,650 Feet above Sea-level.	[123]
XXIII.	I survive a Sleep in the Snow.	[127]
XXIV.	‘Bon’ and ‘Kyang’.	[131]
XXV.	The Power of Buḍḍhism.	[135]
XXVI.	Sacred Mānasarovara and its Legends.	[139]
XXVII.	Bartering in Tibet.	[144]
XXVIII.	A Himālayan Romance.	[150]
XXIX.	On the Road to Nature’s Grand Maṇdala.	[162]
XXX.	Wonders of Nature’s Maṇdala.	[167]
XXXI.	An Ominous Outlook.	[178]
XXXII.	A Cheerless Prospect.	[187]
XXXIII.	At Death’s Door.	[191]
XXXIV.	The Saint of the White Cave revisited.	[204]
XXXV.	Some easier Days.	[211]
XXXVI.	War Against Suspicion.	[218]
XXXVII.	Across the Steppes.	[227]
XXXVIII.	Holy Texts in a Slaughter-house.	[233]
XXXIX.	The Third Metropolis of Tibet.	[236]
XL.	The Sakya Monastery.	[241]
XLI.	Shigatze.	[249]
XLII.	A Supposed Miracle.	[257]
XLIII.	Manners and Customs.	[264]
XLIV.	On to Lhasa.	[280]
XLV.	Arrival in Lhasa.	[285]
XLVI.	The Warrior-Priests of Sera.	[291]
XLVII.	Tibet and North China.	[297]
XLVIII.	Admission into Sera College.	[304]
XLIX.	Meeting with the Incarnate Boḍhisaṭṭva.	[311]
L.	Life in the Sera Monastery.	[323]
LI.	My Tibetan Friends and Benefactors.	[329]
LII.	Japan in Lhasa.	[335]
LIII.	Scholastic Aspirants.	[345]
LIV.	Tibetan Weddings and Wedded Life.	[351]
LV.	Wedding Ceremonies.	[362]
LVI.	Tibetan Punishments.	[374]
LVII.	A grim Funeral and grimmer Medicine.	[388]
LVIII.	Foreign Explorers and the Policy of Seclusion.	[397]
LIX.	A Metropolis of Filth.	[407]
LX.	Lamaism.	[410]
LXI.	The Tibetan Hierarchy.	[417]
LXII.	The Government.	[428]
LXIII.	Education and Castes.	[435]
LXIV.	Tibetan Trade and Industry.	[447]
LXV.	Currency and Printing-blocks.	[461]
LXVI.	The Festival of Lights.	[467]
LXVII.	Tibetan Women.	[472]
LXVIII.	Tibetan Boys and Girls.	[479]
LXIX.	The Care of the Sick.	[484]
LXX.	Outdoor Amusements.	[489]
LXXI.	Russia’s Tibetan Policy.	[493]
LXXII.	Tibet and British India.	[509]
LXXIII.	China, Nepāl and Tibet.	[519]
LXXIV.	The Future of Tibetan Diplomacy.	[526]
LXXV.	The “Monlam” Festival.	[531]
LXXVI.	The Tibetan Soldiery.	[549]
LXXVII.	Tibetan Finance.	[554]
LXXVIII.	Future of the Tibetan Religions.	[561]
LXXIX.	The Beginning of the Disclosure of the Secret.	[566]
LXXX.	The Secret Leaks Out.	[574]
LXXXI.	My Benefactor’s Noble Offer.	[584]
LXXXII.	Preparations for Departure.	[590]
LXXXIII.	A Tearful Departure from Lhasa.	[599]
LXXXIV.	Five Gates to Pass.	[618]
LXXXV.	The First Challenge Gate.	[623]
LXXXVI.	The Second and Third Challenge Gates.	[636]
LXXXVII.	The Fourth and Fifth Challenge Gates.	[642]
LXXXVIII.	The Final Gate passed.	[647]
LXXXIX.	Good-bye, Tibet!	[652]
XC.	The Labche Tribe.	[660]
XCI.	Visit to my Old Teacher.	[667]
XCII.	My Tibetan Friends in Trouble.	[671]
XCIII.	Among Friends.	[677]
XCIV.	The Two Kings of Nepāl.	[682]
XCV.	Audience of the Two Kings.	[685]
XCVI.	Second Audience.	[688]
XCVII.	Once more in Kātmāndu.	[692]
XCVIII.	Interview with the Acting Prime Minister.	[697]
XCIX.	Painful News from Lhasa.	[700]
C.	The King betrays his suspicion.	[703]
CI.	Third Audience.	[709]
CII.	Farewell to Nepāl and its Good Kings.	[714]
CIII.	All’s well that ends well.	[718]

[Illustrations in the Text.]

		PAGE
1.	Author’s departure from Japan.	[6]
2.	The Lama’s execution.	[18]
3.	On the banks of the Bichagori river.	[32]
4.	A horse in difficulties.	[49]
5.	Tsarangese village girls.	[57]
6.	Entering Tibet from Nepāl.	[75]
7.	To a tent of nomad Tibetans.	[79]
8.	A night in the open and a snow-leopard.	[92]
9.	Attacked by dogs and saved by a lady.	[100]
10.	Nearly dying of thirst.	[114]
11.	A sand-storm.	[117]
12.	Struggle in the river.	[121]
13.	Meditating in the face of death.	[125]
14.	A ludicrous race.	[132]
15.	Lake Mānasarovara.	[140]
16.	Religion v. Love.	[151]
17.	Near Mount Kailasa.	[169]
18.	Quarrel between brothers.	[181]
19.	Attacked by robbers.	[192]
20.	The cold moon reflected on the ice.	[202]
21.	Fallen into a muddy swamp.	[210]
22.	Meeting a furious wild yak.	[229]
23.	Outline of the monastery of Tashi Lhunpo.	[249]
24.	Reading the Texts.	[266]
25.	Priest fighting with hail.	[274]
26.	Outline of the residence of the Dalai Lama.	[287]
27.	A vehement philosophical discussion.	[306]
28.	An audience with the Dalai Lama.	[316]
29.	Inner room of the Dalai Lama’s country house.	[320]
30.	Room in the finance secretary’s house.	[335]
31.	Unexpected meeting with friends.	[341]
32.	Girl weeping at being suddenly commanded to marry.	[356]
33.	At the bridegroom’s gate. Throwing an imitation sword at the bride.	[366], [367]
34.	The wife of an Ex-Minister punished in public.	[378, 379]
35.	Funeral ceremonies: cutting up the dead body.	[390, 391]
36.	Lobon Padma Chungne.	[411]
37.	Je Tsong-kha-pa.	[414]
38.	A soothsayer under mediumistic influence falling senseless.	[426]
39.	Flogging as a means of education.	[443]
40.	Priest-traders loading their yaks.	[459]
41.	New year’s reading of the Texts for the Japanese Emperor’s welfare.	[465]
42.	Naming ceremony of a baby.	[480]
43.	A picnic party in summer.	[491]
44.	Prime Minister.	[502]
45.	A corrupt Chief Justice of the monks.	[534]
46.	The final ceremony of the Monlam.	[538]
47.	A scene from the Monlam festival.	[541]
48.	Procession of the Panchen or Tashi Lama in Lhasa.	[568]
49.	Critical meeting with Tsa Rong-ba and his wife.	[580]
50.	Revealing the secret to the Ex-Minister.	[585]
51.	A mysterious Voice in the garden of Sera.	[596]
52.	A distant view of Lhasa.	[605]
53.	Farewell to Lhasa from the top of Genpala.	[606]
54.	Crossing a mountain at midnight.	[610]
55.	Night scene on the Chomo-Lhari and Lham Tso.	[616]
56.	Beautiful scenery in the Tibetan Himālayas.	[634]
57.	The fortress of Nyatong.	[649]
58.	On the way to the snowy Jela-peak.	[654]
59.	Accidental meeting with a friend and compatriot.	[679]
60.	Struggle with a Nepālese soldier.	[690]
61.	Meeting again with an old friend, Lama Buḍḍha Vajra.	[695]
62.	The author and his friend Buḍḍha Vajra enjoying the brilliant snow at Kātmāndu.	[704]
63.	Nāgārjuna’s cave of meditation in Nepāl.	[716]

Photogravures.

		TO FACE PAGE
1.	The Author in 1909.	[Frontispiece.]
2.	The Author just before leaving Japan.	[1]
3.	Rai Bahāḍur Saraṭ Chanḍra Ḍās.	[11]
4.	Lama Sengchen Dorjechan.	[15]
5.	The Author meditating under the Boḍhi-tree.	[25]
6.	Passport in Tibetan for the Author’s return to Tibet in the future.	[645]
7.	The Author as a Tibetan Lama at Darjeeling on his return.	[667]
8.	The Author performing ceremonies in Tibetan costume.	[669]
9.	The Prime Minister of Nepāl, H. H. Chanḍra Shamsīr.	[685]
10.	The Commander-in-Chief of Nepāl, H. E. Bhim Shamsīr.	[697]
11.	Mount Gaurīshaṅkara, the highest peak in the world. ([At the end of the volume).]

Sketch-map.

1.	Chart of the Route followed by the Author. ([At the end of the volume.])