Properties of Gemstones
The beauty of gemstones is mostly dependent on their color, diaphaneity, brilliancy, luster, and fire. Any one or a combination of these properties render stones desirable as gems.
Color is very important in many gemstones. The color of transparent varieties should be distinct enough to be pleasing to the eye, yet not so dark as to appear black or opaque. It is generally more desirable that the gemstone be of even color and not appear “patchy” or “streaked.” However, some opaque or translucent stones such as agate owe their popularity chiefly to the variety of colors and designs within a single piece. Some transparent gemstones exhibit different colors when viewed in different directions. For example, some fine blood-red rubies appear brownish when viewed in a particular direction. The gemstone should be cut so that its finest color is most prominently displayed. This ability of some gemstones to exhibit different colors when viewed in different directions is called pleochroism.
Diaphaneity is the relative ability of stones to transmit light. Diaphaneity is described by terms such as transparent, translucent, and opaque. Transparency is highly desirable in stones such as diamond that are commonly facet-cut to reflect light. The gemstone should be water clear and free from inclusions and cracks so that it transmits light freely, but there are stones that do not exhibit this property that are prized as gemstones. For example, turquoise may appear to be completely opaque and not transmit any light, but it is sought for its fine blue color.
The brilliancy of gemstones is largely dependent on their index of refraction. The index of refraction is a measure of the ability of a cut gemstone to “bend” light rays and reflect them from the bottom facets back through the top of the stone. Of course, brilliancy is not noted in opaque or faintly translucent stones. The index of refraction of gemstones is expressed numerically. Air is the reference medium and is assigned an index of refraction of 1.00. Other substances are assigned values relative to that of air, for example, water, 1.33; topaz, 1.62; diamond, 2.42. The higher the index of refraction, the more brilliant will be the gemstone if it is properly cut and polished.
Luster is the appearance of the mineral on a fresh surface in reflected light; it is divided into two major categories, metallic and non-metallic. Most gemstones have non-metallic luster and are described by terms such as vitreous or glassy, resinous, waxy, greasy, and pearly.
The fire, or ability of gemstones to show flashes of different colors of light, is dependent upon a property called dispersion. The amount of dispersion is the extent to which the gemstone is able to separate ordinary white light into its component colors. The dispersion of gemstones can also be expressed numerically but for purposes of this publication will be referred to as low, moderate, or high. Diamond is a common gemstone that has high dispersion.
A gemstone’s durability is primarily dependent upon its hardness. The Mohs scale of hardness, given below, is most commonly used for gemstones and other minerals.
Mohs Scale of Hardness 1. Talc 2. Gypsum 3. Calcite 4. Fluorite 5. Apatite 6. Orthoclase feldspar 7. Quartz 8. Topaz 9. Corundum 10. Diamond
On this scale, the higher numbers are the harder minerals. Mohs is a relative, not an absolute scale. Therefore, it should not be assumed that diamond is ten times harder than talc because actually diamond is very many tens of times harder than talc. However, a particular mineral is harder than any other mineral with a lesser number, and the scale is very convenient to use. Gemstones mounted in rings should have a hardness of at least seven on the Mohs scale, or the stones may become scuffed and scratched after a relatively short period of wear. Gemstones mounted in pins and brooches can be of softer material as they are not usually subjected to abrasion and rough treatment.