23. Knights of the Annunciade in Savoy.
Ame VI. Earl of Savoy, instituted this Order, under the Title of The Collar 1362. in Honour of the Fifteen Divine Mysteries of the Rosary. Favin, on a mistaken Ground, calls it The Order of the Snares of Love, in regard its Founder had receiv’d of his Lady, a Bracelet made of the Tresses of her Hair, plaited in Love-knots, and that the four Letters, afterwards interlac’d by the Founder, should signifie Frappes, Entres, Rompes, Tout. It is conspicuous enough at the first Erection it was call’d of The Collar, and so remain’d till Charles III. or Le Bon Duke of Savoy, bestow’d on it the Title of The Annunciation, from the Picture of the Annunciation which he annex’d to The Collar, 1518. The Founder appointed the Number of his Knights to be Fifteen, among whom Sir Richard Musard, an Englishman, is recorded 1434. and 1568. their Number was encreas’d to Twenty, that being solely lodg’d in the Breast of their Sovereign. Riene Castle, in Buger, was their principal Seat; they had a Chartreuse to entertain Fifteen Priests to celebrate Fifteen Masses to the Honour of the Fifteen Joys of the blessed Virgin, and to the Soul’s Health of these Knights; and here were their Ceremonies and Chapters held, until Charles Emmanuel I. exchang’d it and other Places for the Marquisate of Saluces, 1607. on the Anniversary of the Feast and Celebration of the Order (being fix’d upon the Day of the Annunciation) were translated first to the Church of St. Dominick at Montmeiller, and afterwards by him to the Hermitage of Camaldule, upon the Mountain of Turin call’d l’Eremo Assis. The ancient Collar was of Gold, Three Fingers broad; in barbarous Characters were ingraved these Letters, F E R T, and one Knot (commonly call’d the Savoy Knot) at the end of each Fert; which, with Three other Knots entwin’d one within another, made up the Circumference pendant at the Collar without any Figure. These old Characters were suppos’d to be the Initials of Fortitudo ejus Rhodum tenuit, alluding to Amadeus le Grand, who so valiantly defended Rhodes against the Turks, 1310. But that this was long before the Devise of the House of Savoy, is manifest from the Coins of Lewis de Savoy, Baron de Vaud. who dy’d 1301. the Monument of Thomas de Savoy, who dy’d 1233. whereon was lying at the Feet of his Portraiture a Dog with a Collar about his Neck, inscrib’d Fert, as an integral Word, and from a Brass Coin of the said Earl’s, on the Reverse whereof are Two Knots of the Model before spoke of, and the Word Fert in the midst. There is the Ectype of a Silver Coin of Peter de Savoy, (who erected in England the noble Pile of that Name in the Strand, temp. H. III.) wherein is represented the Devise Fert in Gothick Characters, the true Interpretation of which Word cannot be explain’d. This ancient Collar is still in vogue and daily worn, but now called The little Collar, fashion’d of Gold or Silver gilt, about an Inch broad, and of different weight. The Knights wear it about their Necks, close to the Collar of their Doublet. Duke Charles III. as he much restor’d the Splendor of this Order, Anno 1518. introduc’d the larger one, only worn upon high Days. It weighs about Two Hundred Crowns, and is compos’d of the Word Fert, interwoven with Knots, severed with Fifteen Roses of Gold, whereof Seven are enamell’d with White, and Seven with Red, and border’d with Two Thorns. The Figure of the Annunciation is enamell’d in various Colours, pendant at three Chainets to another Rose-colour’d both White and Red. He first appointed the great Mantle of Crimson Velvet, his own being furr’d with Ermines, but the rest of the Knights with Miniver, fring’d and border’d with Savoy Knots in fine Gold; under this Mantle is worn a Surcoat of fine Damask. Duke Emanuel Philibert, his Son, alter’d the Colour of the Mantle to Azure, and lin’d it with White Taffaty, of which Silk he made the Surcoats. Charles Emanuel chang’d the Mantle into an Amaranthus or Purple Colour, seeded with Roses and Flames in embroidery of Gold and Silver, and lin’d with Cloth of Silver tissu’d Blue, now in use; under which, instead of the White Taffaty Surcoat, is now worn a White Satin Suit embroider’d with Silk, the Hose gather’d upwards in the fashion of Trouses.
24. The Thistle in France,
Was instituted on New-Year’s Day 1370. by Lewis II. Duke of Bourbon, upon his Marriage with Anne, Daughter to the Count Daulphine in Auvergne. The first Solemnities of this Order were perform’d at Nostre Dame de Maulins in Bourbonnois, where he founded a College of Twelve Canons, in Honour of the blessed Virgin; the Intent was, to corroborate his Interest for the Aid of the Duke of Orleans, against the Faction of the House of Burgundy, and by joyning of Flowers de Lys and Thistles (the Symbols of Hope and Courage) emblematically to express the Nobleness of his Spirit against all the Power of Fortune. He ordain’d the Number of Knights to be Twenty Six, comprehending himself and his Successors, Dukes of Bourbon, as Chiefs, and oblig’d them to wear daily a Belt, a Girdle of Watchel coloured Velvet, lin’d with Crimson Sattin embroider’d with Gold, and therein the Word Esperance curiously wrought. The Girdle was fasten’d with a Buckle and Thong of Gold, bearded and chequer’d with Green, enamel’d in Form like the Head of a Thistle. On the Anniversary of the Festival (the Conception of our Lady) the Knights wore Cassocks or Surcoats of Carnation Damask with White Sleeves, girded as before; the Mantle of the Order was sky-colour’d Damask with broad Welts of Gold Embroidered on the Collar, and lined with Red Satin, but the Mantlet of Green Velvet, the Bonnet was also of Green Velvet; at the Point of the Band hung a Tassel of Crimson Silk and Threads Gold, the Lining of Crimson Taffaty, and turn’d up after the antique manner, whereon they had embroided the Golden Shield with the Word Allen; the great Collar was of Gold, of the weight of Ten Marks, enamelled with Green, distended like Network, which was filled with Flowers de Lys (together with the Letters of the Impress) plac’d in a Lozenge of Red Enamel; at the Bottom of the Collar, in an Oval of Gold (the Circle whereof was enamelled with Green and Red) appeared the Figure of the Patroness, the Virgin Mary, irradiated with Gold, and crowned with Twelve Silver Stars, a Crescent of the same under her Feet, enamell’d with Purple and Sky-colour; at the End of the Oval depended the Head of a Thistle enamelled Green, but bearded White. The Founder took an exact Patern for the Order of the Garter, with which he acquainted himself while he was Prisoner in Windsor Castle.
25. The Order of the Dove
Was begun by John I. King of Castile in Segovia, 1390. or, as others, 1379. to encourage his Nobles to prosecute the Noble Acts of his Grandfather King Henry III. but the Founder dying the same Year, before it had taken root, it became of small Continuance.
26. The Order of the Argonauts of St. Nicholas
Was instituted by Charles III. King of Naples, 1382. to preserve Amity among the Nobles, to compose Enmities and suppress Seditions. If any of these Knights, upon a Variance, refused a Reconciliation, the Ensigns were to be forfeited. Others say the Design was to advance Navigation, to which their Ensign alludes, being a Ship floating upon the Waters in the midst of a Storm, having this Motto, Non credo tempori. In the Convent of that sumptuous Church which St. Nicholas, Bishop of Smyrna, erected, was the grand Feast held on the Anniversary of that Saint. This King appointed a White Habit for the Knights, and prescribed them laudable Constitutions; but for want of a settled Revenue, their Splendor expired with their Founder.
27. Knights of St. Anthony in Hainault.
Albert of Bavaria, Earl of Hainault, Holland, and Zeland, designing an Expedition against the Turks and Moors, instituted this Order, 1382. The Ensign thereof was a Golden Collar wrought after the Fashion of an Hermit’s Girdle, at which hung a Walking-Staff, and a little Golden Ball.