Of the same Contexture with the former is another Tradition in Andrew du Chesne, That the Queen departing from the King to her own Apartments, and he following soon after, chanced to espy a Blue Garter lying on the Ground (supposed to have slipp’d from her Leg) whilst some of his Attendants carelesly passed by it, as disdaining to stoop at such a Trifle; but he knowing the Owner, commanded it to be given him; at the Receipt of which he said, You make but small account of this Garter; but within few Months, I’ll cause the best of you all to reverence it alike. Some suppose that the Motto was the Queen’s Answer, when the King asked her, What Men would conjecture of her, upon her losing her Garter in such a manner?
Both Relations are far distant from Fact; nevertheless it has thus far’d with other Orders of Sovereign Foundation, and an amorous, instead of an honourable Account, has been falsly render’d of their Institution; as for Instance, The Order of the Annunciade, and that of The Golden Fleece.
There is a third Opinion grounded on a Relation made of King Rich. I. who, whilst his Forces were employ’d against Cyprus and Acon, and extremely tir’d and harrass’d with the Siege, he, by the Assistance and Mediation of St. George (as imagin’d) was inspir’d with fresh Courage, and bethought himself of a new Device, which was to tie about the Legs of a Number of Knights, a Leathern Thong Garter, for such had he then at hand, whereby they being emulated to future Glory, with Assurance of Reward if they prov’d victorious, they might be excited to behave themselves intrepidly and well, much after the Examples of the old Romans, among whom were distributed various Crowns for several Causes, to adorn the Soldiers: But if King Richard I. did make use of this Device in the Holy Land, as a Signal or Mark of Distinction of a Party, upon some warlike Exploit, yet that he took Occasion to create a distinct Order of Knighthood thereupon, there is not sufficient warrant to believe; (for it is only put down in the Preface of the Black Book, but not in any Part of the Annals of the Order; nor can it plead higher Antiquity than the Reign of King Hen. VIII. when written.) All the Advantage that can be made of it, is, to heighten the Reputation of that Saint among the English, by which Means the Garter came to be dedicated to him, and not that it contributed to its Institution.
§ 2. The true Motive was therefore, neither the Ladies Garter, or King Richard’s Leathern Thong, that it owes it Original to: But King Edward, being a Person of consummate Vertue, gave himself up to military Affairs; and being engag’d in War for recovering his Right to France, made use of the best Martialists of the Age, did thereupon first design (induc’d by its ancient Fame) the Restoration of King Arthur’s Round Table, to invite hither the Gallant Spirits from abroad, and endear them to himself; and adjudging no Place more requisite than Windsor, upon New-Year’s-Day, A. D. 1344. he issu’d out Letters of Protection for the safe going and return of Foreign Knights, to try their Valour at the Solemn Justs to be held there on Monday after the Feast of St. Hilary following (which happen’d Jan. 19.) And these Letters of Safe-Conduct continu’d in force until the Octaves of the Purification of our blessed Virgin ensuing, being the 18th Year of his Reign. At the Time appointed, he provided a great Supper to begin the Solemnity, and then ordain’d this Festival to be annually at Whitsontide; and immediately after these first Exercises were over, for a future and better Accommodation, he impress’d Workmen and Carriages for erecting a particular Building in the Castle, and therein plac’d a Table of Two Hundred Foot Diameter, where the Knights should have their Entertainment of Diet, at his Expence of 100 l. per Week; to which Building he gave the Name of The Round Table. And as at these great Conventions the Days were spent in all Kinds of noble Feats of Arms, Justs and Turnaments, so were a great Part of the Nights consum’d in publick Balls and dancing with the Ladies that attended the Queen thither; and perhaps it was hence conjectur’d, that at some of these Balls the Queen’s Garter, or the Garter of Catherine, Countess of Salisbury, might slip off, and the King’s taking it up occasion Smiles in the Bystanders; and afterwards, when the King had modell’d his intended Order, a Garter offering it self for its chief Ensign, might add to the Conjecture; but that it was the principal Cause, is a groundless Imagination. And tho’ King Edward advanc’d the Honour of the Garter, as to denominate the Order, yet was it not to enhance Reputation to, or perpetuate an effeminate Occasion, but to adorn Martial Prowess, with Honours, Rewards and Splendor; to increase Vertue and Valour in the Hearts of his Nobility, that so true Worth, after long and hazardous Exploits, should not enviously be depriv’d of that Glory which it hath intrinsically deserv’d, and that active and hardy Youths might not want a Spur in their Progression in the Paths of Vertue, which is to be esteem’d glorious and eternal.
It is further observable, that the French King, Philip de Valoys, in Emulation of this Seminary at Windsor, set up a Round Table at his Court, and invited Knights and valiant Men of Arms out of Italy and Almaine thither, lest they should repair to our King Edward III. which meeting with Success, prov’d a Countermine to his main Design; who perceiving that his Hospitality towards strange Knights, upon Account of reviving King Arthur’s Round Table was too general, nor did sufficiently ingratiate them to his Person, but being unconstrain’d and at Liberty, did after their Departure take what Side they pleas’d in the ensuing Wars, he at length resolv’d upon a Projection more particular and select, and such as might oblige those whom he thought fit to make his Associates, in a lasting Bond of Friendship and Honour: And having issu’d forth his own Garter for the Signal of a Battle, that was crown’d with Success, (which is conceiv’d to be the Battle of Cressy, fought about Three Years after his erecting the Round Table;) upon so remarkable a Victory, he thence took Occasion to institute this Order, and gave the Garter Preheminence among the Ensigns of it, whence that select Number, whom he incorporated into a Fraternity, are styl’d Equites Aureæ Periscelidis, and vulgarly Knights of the Garter. By this Symbol he design’d to bind the Knights and Fellows of it mutually unto one another, and all of them joyntly to himself, as Sovereign of the Order; nor was his Expectation frustrated, for it did not serve only as a vehement Spur and Incentive to Honour and martial Vertue, but also as a golden Bond of Unity and internal Society; and for this Consideration Cambden aptly calls it a Badge of Unity and Concord.
By the Symbols of this Garter the Knights are reminded, with all Religiousness, Sincerity, Friendliness, Faithfulness and Dexterity, not to leave the Pursuit of whatsoever they take in hand, nor to enterprize any Thing contrary to the Statutes of the Order; neither to frustrate the Rights of Peace and Friendship, nor vilify the Law of Arms, or proceed in any Thing farther than Faith and Compact, or the Bond of Friendship will admit. Moreover, in the binding of the Leg with this enobled Ensign, there was given this Caveat and Exhortation, that the Knights should not pusillanimously (by running away from Battle) betray the Valour and Renown which is ingrafted in Constancy and Magnanimity. Nay, so exactly did the Founder contrive the whole Habit into the Signification of the Garter, that he ordain’d his and the Knights-Companions Robes and Ornaments to be all alike, both for Materials and Fashion, intimating thereby, That they ought to conserve brotherly Affection among themselves. The great Collar of the Order was made of equal Weight, and like Number of Knots and Links, in Token of the like Bond of Faith, Peace and Amity inviolably to be observ’d and retain’d amongst them: In fine, all Things were so design’d, that every one might plainly perceive how much these Things tended to the Maintenance of Amity and Concord.
In further reference to the establishing this Order, the aforesaid King calling together the Earls, Barons, and principal Knights of his Kingdom, Freely, says Froissart, and obligingly declar’d his Mind to them concerning this Affair: To which all of them being well inclin’d, entertain’d the Motion with equal Joy and Applause, deeming it would prove a very great Advancement to Piety, Nobility and Vertue, and likewise an excellent Expedient for the uniting not only his Subjects one with another, but all Foreigners conjunctively with them, in the Bonds of Amity and Peace. And ’tis very improbable the prudent Founder should summon his Nobles to consult about the Grandeur of an Order, that had taken its Rise from so slight an Occasion as the dropping of a Garter from a Lady’s Leg. Now, to draw the Tye of Friendship more close, the King caused those who were (or should be) of the Order, to be call’d Fellows, Associates, Colleagues, Brethren, and Knights-Companions, and the Order it self a Society, Fellowship, College of Knights, and Knight-Companionship; and their Habits to be all alike, to represent how they ought to be united in all Chances and various Turns of Fortune; Co-partners both in Peace and War, assistant to one another in all serious and dangerous Exploits; and thro’ the whole Course of their Lives to shew Fidelity and Friendliness one towards another. There are other Reasons assign’d, much to the same Effect, That the Order was instituted to fortifie the Confidence of the King, the Kingdom and Martial Vertue; that is to say, to strengthen the Faith of the Subjects towards them, and for their greater Security, and because the Garter carries with it a Bond or Tye of Fellowship, and is a Symbol of Amity between Princes, being Companions of the same Order.
In the last Place, if we look upon the Statutes of its Institution, we shall find the Injunctions wholly Military, and so are the Words of Admonition pronounc’d at the putting on the Ensigns of the Order: And the Ground of the Institution (in the Preamble to King Henry VIII’s Exemplar) is said to be for the Honour of God and Exaltation of the Catholick Faith, joyn’d both with Piety and Charity, in establishing a College of religious Men to pray for the Prosperity of the Sovereign of the Order and the Knights-Companions, and to perform other holy Duties; as also ordaining a Maintenance for a Company of Alms-Knights, who have not otherwise wherewith to support themselves; but not one Word relating to the Engagement on behalf of the feminine Sex.
And whereas King Edw. III. had laid Claim by his Title to the Kingdom of France, and in Right thereof assum’d its Arms, he from the Colour of them, ’tis said, caus’d the Garter to be made Blue, and the Circumscription Gold: And it may, without straining, be inferr’d from the Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense, that he retorted Shame and Defiance upon him that should dare to think amiss of so just an Enterprize, as he had undertaken for recovering of his lawful Right to that Crown; and that the Magnanimity and Bravery of those Knights, whom he had elected into this Order, was such as would impower and enable them to maintain the Quarrel against all who thought ill of it. Consonant to this is the Conjecture of Harpsfield, that this Apophthegm was design’d to put the Knights-Companions in mind, Not to admit any Thing in their Actions, or among their Thoughts, derogatory to themselves and their Honour.
That Age did exceedingly abound with Impresses, Motto’s and Devices, and particularly King Edw. III. was so excessively given up to them, that his Apparel, Plate, Bed, Houshold-Furniture, Shields, and even the Harness of his Horses, and the like, were not without them, many of which now to descant upon would be a fruitless Attempt, seeing the Occasion of the Invention, and the Circumstances are lost, that should illustrate them; and others, by reason of their Brevity, seem’d insignificant, in regard something was designedly omitted, and left to be understood, which cannot now be rightly supply’d, so as to arrive at the Mind of the Inventor. Of this Number may be this Motto, It is as it is, which was embroider’d upon a Doublet of that King; tho’ there are others which seem more easy to be decypher’d; as that daring Motto wrought upon his Surcoat and Shield provided to be used at a Turnament,