The four first, viz. the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, and Hood, were assigned the Knights Companions, by the Founder, and the George and Collar by King Henry VIII. and all these together are called the whole Habit or Ensigns of the Order, which we shall treat of succinctly, beginning with the Garter.
The Royal Garter challengeth the Preheminence, for from it this famous Order receiv’d its Denomination: It is the first part of the Habit presented to Foreign Princes and Absent Knights, and that wherewith they, and all other elect Knights, are first adorn’d; and of so great Honour and Grandeur, that by the bare Investiture with this Noble Ensign, the Knights are esteem’d Companions of the greatest Military Order in the World.
The Materials whereof it was compos’d at first, is an Arcanum; nor is it described by any before Polydore Virgil, and he but in general: As to the ornamental Part of it, it was adorn’d with Gold and precious Stones, and had a Buckle of Gold at the End, to fasten it about the Leg; but there’s no doubt but it was wrought with rich Embroidery, and the Motto rais’d with Gold, Pearl, and sundry Sorts of Silk, as may be guess’d from the Garters anciently plac’d on the left side of the Knights-Companions Mantles, and those other little embroider’d Garters, wherewith their Surcoats and Hoods were heretofore embellish’d.
The present Habits, Ensigns and Badges, belonging to the Officers of the Garter.
The Prelate & Chancellors Mantle. Registers, Garters & Black Rods Mantle. Garters Scepter. Black Rod Chancellors Badge Garters Badge Black Rods Badge
Chancellors Badge Garters Badge Black Rods Badge The Garter The Sovereigns Mantle. Hood. Surcoat. The Collar and Great George Ribbond & George A Knight Companions Mantle. Cap and Feather.
But of those wrought in the last Age, we have more particular Satisfaction; for we find the Garter sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy, Anno 1 and 2 Philip and Mary, was set with Letters of Goldsmith’s Work, the Buckle and Pendant of the same, and on the Pendant a Ruby, and a Pearl hanging at the End. The Garter made for Francis II. Anno 6 Elizabeth, was richly wrought with Letters of Gold, set off and garnish’d with Stones, the Buckle and Pendant weighing Three Ounces and an half-quarter, was richly set with Rubies and Diamonds. The French King Henry IV. had a Garter of Purple Velvet embroider’d with Letters of Gold, and deck’d out with Diamonds and Rubies. And the Garter of Christian IV. King of Denmark, was embroider’d with Gold and Pearls: But that Garter sent to Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden, outvied all others conferr’d by former Sovereigns, each Letter of the Motto being compos’d of small Diamonds; and for every Stop, a Diamond within a Range of Diamonds, above and below, on the sides of the Garter, and besides other Diamonds on the Buckle, and about the same, to the Number in all of 411.
The Garter which King Charles I. wore upon his Leg at the Time of his Martyrdom, had the Letters of the Motto compos’d likewise of Diamonds, which amounted to the Number of 412. It came to the Hands of Captain Preston (one of the Usurper’s Captains) from whom the Trustees, for Sale of the King’s Goods, receiv’d it, and sold it to Ireton, sometimes Lord Mayor of London, for 205 l. But after the Restoration, the King’s Attorney-General proceeding upon an Action of Trover and Conversion, Verdict was given for the King against him for 205 l. and 10 l. costs of Suits, in Trinity Term, 16 Car. II.