The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

by Elias Ashmole

The more solemn Days and Occasions which require a fuller conformity, and the wearing the whole Habit, i. e. the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, Collar, Great George, and Cap, are first, The High Festival of the Order, commonly called St. George’s Feast, whether it be solemnized on the 22d, 23d or 24th of April, annually, or any other Days within the Year by Prorogation, as is apparent by all the Bodies of the Statutes.

For, First it is ordained, That the Knights-Companions should be Arrayed in the whole Habit on the Eve of St. George, before the Sovereign proceeded to the Chapter to hear Divine Service, and being so Robed, should attend on the Sovereign to the Chapter-House, thence to the Chapel, and return with him back in the same manner, until after Supper, as well those that minded to Sup, as those that should not Sup; nor might they disrobe, until the Sovereign or his Deputy had put off his, or declar’d it seasonable for his or their doing so.

By the same Statute they were enjoined to wear the whole Habit on the Feast of St. George, both at their Progression in the Morning to the Chapter-House or Chapel, at their return to Dinner from thence to the Second Vespers, and back to Supper, as also till Supper was over, and until the Sovereign or his Lieutenant took leave of the rest of the Knights-Companions.

Secondly, It is manifest from King Henry VIII’s Statutes, That the Eve, the Day of St. George, and Morrow following, were to be observed with solemn Service, and holding of Chapters wheresoever the Sovereign was resident; tho’ the Grand Feast were Prorogued to a longer Duration; and when by reason of such Prorogation, they should convene in any Place besides Windsor to attend the Sovereign for the Solemnization of St. George’s Day, they then must Adorn themselves with the whole Habit from beginning of the first Vespers, until the last Evening Service of the same Day.

Thirdly, On such other Days of the Year whereon the Grand Feast is held by Prorogation, and during such Part of the Eve and Day of the Feast, as is before appointed when it is held on its proper Day.

Fourthly, By absent Knights, whensoever the Grand Feast of St. George should be celebrated, and wheresoever they should happen at that time to reside, (if at Liberty, and not under restraint) to keep it in like manner as if then present with the Sovereign, or his Deputy in the Place where he should Celebrate the Feast. The time of wearing the whole Habit in this Point extends but to the End of the second Vespers, as in the second Instance above.

Fifthly, The Knights-Companions are to wear the entire Habit at the Feasts of Installation when they assist at that Ceremony; where, if it commence in the Evening, they are not to disrobe themselves till after Supper; and being the next Morning habited as before, then to proceed to the Chapter-House or Chapel, and not to devest themselves till Dinner is ended.

The less solemn Occasions are those, which require the wearing the Mantle or Collar of the Order only.

And they are first, upon the Morrow after the Grand Feast-Day, when the Sovereign and Knights-Companions proceed to the Chapel, and make their Offering; then it sufficeth, that they barely put on the Mantle, which, Service being Finished, they were wont to leave it at the Chapter-House-Door as they retired out of the Chapel.

Secondly, As often as Chapters are called, and in what Place soever assembled, either for Elections, or other Causes, as it shall please the Sovereign to nominate: And as often as it is requisite for the Sovereign, or any of the Knights-Companions to enter into the Chapel of St. George at Windsor; and in reference hereunto, is the Article 15 E. 3. was that their Mantles should remain in the Vestry at Windsor, that upon any sudden emergency, they might be in readiness: for in the Inventory of the Chapel taken 8 R. 2. we find remaining at that time in the Vestry, a Mantle appertaining to the Sovereign, another to John Duke of Britain, a third to John Holland Earl of Huntington, another to Edmund Langley Earl of Cambridge, and one to Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, all of them then surviving: And by a Decree past at the Grand Feast 1 H. 6. the Mantle of the young Sovereign was appointed to be left at Windsor, as the Statutes required; and this Article was confirmed by King Henry VIII. by Virtue whereof, the Mantles of the Emperor Charles V. and Anna Duke of Montmorency, were left in the Custody of the Dean and Canons of Windsor. And heretofore in the Bill of drawing up Matters necessary for the Installation of a Knight-Companion, there were usually two Mantles set down; one expressed to be left in the College, and the other for all other Occasions that might intervene.