Iron Boiler.
Boiling, in the usual English manner, is the least advantageous of all modes of cooking meat, because a large portion of the nourishment which it contains is withdrawn from it in the process, and it is usually very insipid in flavour.
We have already given, at the commencement of Chapter [I.], the substance of Liebeg’s instructions for scientific boiling; but for the convenience of the reader, we will briefly recapitulate them here, with such additions as our own observation has enabled us to supply.
In making soup, gravy, or savoury jelly of any kind, the principal object is to extract from the meat used for the preparation, all the nutriment and savour which it can be made to yield. This is effected by putting it into cold water, and heating it very slowly indeed, and then keeping it for a specified time at the point of boiling, or letting it simmer in the gentlest manner; but when the meat itself is required for food, its nutritious juices must be prevented from escaping as much as possible, which is done by plunging it into fast boiling water for a few minutes, to contract the pores of the surface (to harden it, in fact), and adding immediately afterwards as much cold water as will reduce the whole to a moderate temperature. Part of the water should then be taken away, as meat should never be cooked in a larger quantity than is absolutely needed to keep it entirely covered until it is ready to serve; for this reason it should be always boiled in a vessel nearly of its own size.
Large joints should be neatly trimmed, washed extremely clean, and skewered or bound firmly into good shape, when they are of a nature to require it; brought to boil over a moderate fire, and simmered until they are done, the scum being carefully and entirely cleared from the surface of the water, as it gathers there, which will be principally from within a few minutes of its beginning to boil, and during a few minutes afterwards. If not thoroughly skimmed off at the proper time, it will sink, and adhere to the joint, giving it a very uninviting appearance.
Pickled or salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh; and that which is smoked and dried longer still: this last should always be laid into cold water, slowly heated, and if, from any circumstances, time cannot have been allowed for soaking it properly and there is a probability of its being too salt when served, it should be brought very softly to boil in a large quantity of water, which should in part be changed as soon as it becomes quite briny, for as much more that is ready boiling.
It is customary to lay rounds of beef, and other large joints, upon a fish-plate, or to throw some wooden skewers under them, to prevent their sticking to the vessel in which they are cooked; and it is as well to take the precaution, though unless they be placed over a very fierce fire, they cannot be in danger of this. The time allowed for them is about the same as for roasting, from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. For cooking rounds of beef, and other ponderous joints, a pan of this form is very convenient.
Large Stock-pot.
By means of two almost equally expensive preparations, called a poêlée, and a blanc, the insipidity which results from boiling meat or vegetables in water only may be removed, and the whiteness of either will be better preserved. Turkeys, fowls, sweetbreads, calf’s brains, cauliflowers, and artichoke bottoms, are the articles for which the poêlée and the blanc are more especially used in expensive foreign cookery: the reader will judge by the following receipts how far they are admissible into that of the economist.