Skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys, and without opening them, remove the fat; slice them rather thin, strew over them a large dessertspoonful of minced herbs, of which two-thirds should be parsley and the remainder thyme, with a tolerable seasoning of pepper or cayenne, and some fine salt. Melt two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, put in the kidneys and brown them quickly on both sides; when nearly done, stir amongst them a dessertspoonful of flour and shake them well in the pan; pour in the third of a pint of gravy (or of hot water in default of this), the juice of half a lemon, and as much of Harvey’s sauce, or of mushroom catsup, as will flavour the whole pleasantly; bring these to the point of boiling, and pour them into a dish garnished with fried sippets, or lift out the kidneys first, give the sauce a boil and pour it on them. In France, a couple of glasses of champagne, or, for variety, of claret, are frequently added to this dish: one of port wine can be substituted for either of these. A dessertspoonful of minced eschalots may be strewed over the kidneys with the herbs; or two dozens of very small ones previously stewed until tender in fresh butter over a gentle fire, may be added after they are dished. This is a very excellent and approved receipt.
Fried 6 minutes.
BROILED MUTTON KIDNEYS.
Split them open lengthwise without dividing them, strip off the skin and fat, run a fine skewer through the points and across the back of the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling, season them with pepper or cayenne, lay them over a clear brisk fire, with the cut sides towards it, turn them in from four to five minutes, and in as many more dish, and serve them quickly, with or without a cold Maître d’Hôtel sauce under them. French cooks season them with pepper and fine salt, and brush a very small quantity of oil or clarified butter over them before they are broiled: we think this an improvement.
8 to 10 minutes.
OXFORD RECEIPT FOR MUTTON KIDNEYS. (BREAKFAST DISH, OR ENTRÉE.)
Fry gently in a little good butter, a dozen croûtons (slices of bread, of uniform shape and size, trimmed free from crust), cut half an inch thick, about two inches and a half wide, and from three to four in length: lift them out and keep them hot. Split quite asunder six fine fresh kidneys, after having freed them from the skin and fat; season them with fine salt and cayenne, arrange them evenly in a clean frying-pan, and pour some clarified butter over them. Fry them over a somewhat brisk fire, dish each half upon a croûton, make a sauce in the pan as for veal cutlets, but use gravy for it instead of water, should it be at hand; add a little wine or catsup, pour it round the croûtons, and serve the kidneys instantly.
10 minutes.
TO ROAST A FORE QUARTER OF LAMB.
This should be laid to a clear brisk fire, and carefully and plentifully basted from the time of its becoming warm until it is ready for table; but though it requires quick roasting, it must never be placed sufficiently near the fire to endanger the fat, which is very liable to catch or burn. When the joint is served, the shoulder should be separated from the ribs with a sharp knife; and a small slice of fresh butter, a little cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon juice should be laid between them; if the cook be an expert carver, this had better be done before the lamb is sent to table. The cold Maître d’Hôtel sauce of Chapter [VI.] may be substituted for the usual ingredients, the parsley being omitted or not, according to the taste. Serve good mint sauce, and a fresh salad with this roast.