The Germans cut the ham-rind after it has been stripped from the joint, into small leaves and similar “prettinesses,”[[85]] and arrange them in a garland, or other approved device, upon its surface. In Ireland and elsewhere, bread evenly sliced, and stamped out with cutters much smaller than a fourpenny-piece, then carefully fried or coloured in the oven, is used to form designs upon hams after they are glazed. Large dice of clear firm savoury jelly form their most appropriate garnish, because they are intended to be eaten with them. For the manner of making this, and glaze also see Chapter [IV].
[85]. This should be done with a confectionary or paste cutter.
The ham shown in Plate V., which follows the directions for “Carving,” is of very good appearance; but in common English kitchens generally, even the degree of artistic skill required to form its decorations well, is not often to be met with.
FRENCH RECEIPT FOR BOILING A HAM.
After having soaked, thoroughly cleaned, and trimmed the ham, put over it a little very sweet clean hay, and tie it up in a thin cloth; place it in a ham kettle, a braising pan, or any other vessel as nearly of its size as can be, and cover it with two parts of cold water and one of light white wine (we think the reader will perhaps find cider a good substitute for this); add, when it boils and has been skimmed, four or five carrots, two or three onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs, and the smallest bit of garlic. Let the whole simmer gently from four to five hours, or longer should the ham be very large. When perfectly tender, lift it out, take off the rind, and sprinkle over it some fine crumbs, or some raspings of bread mixed with a little finely minced parsley.
Obs.—Foreign cooks generally leave hams, braised joints, and various other prepared meats intended to be served cold, to cool down partially in the liquor in which they are cooked; and this renders them more succulent; but for small frugal families the plan does not altogether answer, because the moisture of the surface (which would evaporate quickly if they were taken out quite hot) prevents their keeping well for any length of time. The same objection exists to serving hams laid upon, or closely garnished with savoury jelly (aspic), which becomes much more quickly unfit for table than the hams themselves.
These considerations, which may appear insignificant to some of our readers, will have weight with those who are compelled to regulate their expenses with economy.
TO BAKE A HAM.
Unless when too salt from not being sufficiently soaked, a ham (particularly a young and fresh one) eats much better baked than boiled, and remains longer good. The safer plan to ensure its being sufficiently steeped, is to lay it into plenty of cold water over night. The following day soak it for an hour or more in warm water, wash it delicately clean, trim smoothly off all rusty parts, and lay it with the rind downwards into a large common pie-dish; press an oiled paper closely over it, and then fasten securely to the edge of the dish a thick cover of coarse paste; and send the ham to a moderate oven, of which the heat will be well sustained until it is baked. Or, when more convenient, lay the ham at once—rind downwards—on the paste, of which sufficient should be made, and rolled off to an inch in thickness, to completely envelope it. Press a sheet of oiled foolscap paper upon it; gather up the paste firmly all round, draw and pinch the edges together, and fold them over on the upper side of the ham, taking care to close them so that no gravy can escape. Send it to a well-heated, but not a fierce oven. A very small ham will require quite three hours baking, and a large one five. The crust and the skin must be removed while it is hot. When part only of a ham is dressed, this mode is better far than boiling it.