When partridges are served to ladies only, or in parties where they are present, it is now customary to take off the heads, to truss the legs short, and to make them appear (in poulterer’s phrase) all breast. For gentlemen’s dinners, the heads may be left on or not at choice. The most ready mode of carving a partridge is to press back the legs, then to fix the fork firmly in the inside of the back, and by passing the blade of the knife flat under the lower part of the breast, to raise it, with the wings, entire from the body, from which it easily separates. The breast may then be divided in the middle, as shown by the line from a to b in the engraving here. This is by far the best and handsomest manner of carving a partridge, but when the supply of game at table is small, and it is necessary to serve three persons from the choicer parts of one bird, a not very large wing should be taken off with the leg on either side, in the line from a to b in No. 13, and sufficient of the breast will still remain to send to a third eater. The high game-flavour of the back of a partridge, as well as that of various other birds,[[8]] is greatly relished by many persons.
[8]. A great man o the north eloquently describes that of a grouse as “the most pungent, palate-piercing, wild bitter-sweet.”
No. 19. A WOODCOCK.
The thigh and back are the most esteemed parts of a woodcock which, being a small bird, may be carved entirely through the centre of the breast and back, or distributed in the same manner as the partridge for three, which we have described; or even carved down like a fowl, if needful. In whatever way it is divided, however, a portion of the toast which has received the trail, and on which it should always be sent to table, must invariably be served to all who partake of it. The very old fashion of trussing the bird with its own bill, by running it through the thighs and body, is again adopted by very good cooks of the present day; but the common method of preparing either woodcocks or snipes for table is this: the trussing of the legs is, however, better shown at Nos. 19 and 21 of Plate 6.
No. 20. A PIGEON.
The breast and wings of a pigeon may be raised in the same way as those of a partridge (see No. [18]); or the bird may be carved entirely through in the line a b. For the second course, pigeons should be dished upon young delicate water-cresses.
No. 21. A SNIPE.
This bird is trussed, roasted, and served exactly like a woodcock. It is not of a size to require any carving, beyond dividing in two, if at all.