Obs.—We have spoken but slightly in our chapter of curries of Captain White’s currie-paste, though for many years we have had it used in preference to any other, and always found it excellent. Latterly, however, it has been obtained with rather less facility than when attention was first attracted to it. The last which we procured directed, on the label of the jar, that orders for it should be sent per post to 83, Copenhagen Street, Islington. It may, however, be procured without doubt from any good purveyor of sauces and other condiments. It is sold in jars of all sizes, the price of the smallest being one-and-sixpence. We certainly think it much superior to any of the others which we have tested, its flavour being peculiarly agreeable.
TO FILLET ANCHOVIES.
Drain them well from the pickle, take off the heads and fins, lay them separately on a plate, and scrape off the skin entirely; then place them on a clean dish and with a sharp-edged knife raise the flesh on either side of the back-bone, passing it from the tail to the shoulders, and keeping it nearly flat as it is worked along. Divide each side (or fillet) in two, and use them as directed for the preceding toasts or other purposes. They make excellent simple sandwiches with slices of bread and butter only; but very superior ones when they are potted or made into anchovy butter.
SAVOURY TOASTS.
Cut some slices of bread free from crust, about half an inch thick and two inches and a half square; butter the tops thickly, spread a little mustard on them, and then cover them with a deep layer of grated cheese and of ham seasoned rather highly with cayenne; fry them in good butter, but do not turn them in the pan; lift them out, and place them in a Dutch oven for three or [TN: missing word.] minutes to dissolve the cheese: serve them very hot.
To 4 tablespoonsful of grated English cheese, an equal portion of very finely minced, or grated ham; but of Parmesan, or Gruyère, 6 tablespoonsful. Seasoning of mustard and cayenne.
Obs.—These toasts, for which we give the original receipt unaltered, may be served in the cheese-course of a dinner. Such mere “relishes” as they are called, do not seem to us to demand much of our space, or many of them which are very easy of preparation might be inserted here: a good cook, however, will easily supply them at slight expense. Truffles minced, seasoned, and stewed tender in butter with an eschalot or two, may be served on fried toasts or croûtons and will generally be liked.
TO CHOOSE MACCARONI AND OTHER ITALIAN PASTES.
The Naples maccaroni, of which the pipes are large, and somewhat thin, should be selected for the table in preference to the Genoa, which is less in size, but more substantial, and better suited to the formation of the various fanciful timbales[[138]] for which it is usually chosen. We have inserted here no receipts for these, because unless very skilfully prepared they are sure to fail, and they are not in much request in this country, unless it be at the tables of the aristocracy, for which they are prepared by efficient cooks. Of the ribbon maccaroni (or lazanges) we have given particulars in the pages which follow. The macaroncini, though not much larger than a straw, requires much boiling for its size, to render it soft. The celery-maccaroni is made very large and of an ornamental form, but in short lengths. It is used by “professed” cooks as a sort of crust or case for quenelle-forcemeat, or other expensive preparations of the same nature. The ring or cut maccaroni is another form given to the Italian paste: it may be had at almost any good foreign warehouse.
[138]. For an explanation of the term timbale, the reader is referred to the glossary at the commencement of this volume.