We visited the Museum, which contains many valuable paintings, chiefly the works of the old Dutch school. The finest edifice in Amsterdam is the "King's Palace," which rests on a foundation of thirteen thousand six hundred and fifty-nine piles; its length is two hundred and eighty-two feet—two hundred and thirty-five in width, and one hundred and sixteen feet high. Its tower is sixty-six feet high, containing a splendid set of chimes. The interior of the palace is grand and beautiful—its principal apartments, through which we passed, are constructed of white marble, and many sumptuously decorated. The "Council Chamber" is one hundred and twenty feet long by sixty broad over the entrance, and opposite to it we noticed flags and trophies wrested from the Spaniards and other enemies. We also visited the Navy Yard, and were conducted through the different departments of shipbuilding. Steamers, monitors and ironclads were in course of erection. We were amused in viewing the operation of their ponderous and complicated machinery. By a downward stroke chunks over three inches in diameter were punched out of cold iron plate above an inch in thickness. Ponderous iron pillars were pared, polished and grooved, blocks of iron eight inches thick were turned and twisted into every desirable shape. It seemed impossible that any projectile could be forced through an eight inch block of iron; we were, however, shown one of this description which had been perforated by a cannon ball after having passed through a covering of oak at least one foot in thickness.
The most remarkable trade in this city is that of diamond cutting, which is done almost exclusively by Jews. The stones are cut or sawed through by means of wires covered with diamond dust and polished by being pressed by the workmen against a rapidly revolving iron disk, moistened with a mixture of oil and diamond dust. The last material has proved to be indispensable in this work, as no other substance will make impressions on the diamond.
Amsterdam is celebrated for its numerous charitable institutions. It has upwards of forty designed for the benefit of the sick, aged and indigent, lunatics, foundlings and widows, all being supported by voluntary contributions. Upwards of twenty thousand poor are sustained at the expense of private individuals. We saw a number of establishments for the poor, which appeared more like palaces for the rich than dwellings for the destitute. This city, as well as many others in Holland, is famous in its liberal arrangements for educating the poorer classes. The "Society for Public Welfare," founded in 1784, by a Baptist minister, is an admirable institution, having for its object the education and moral culture of the lower classes, and extending its operations throughout the kingdom of Holland. It comprises fourteen thousand members, who subscribe two dollars annually. It educates teachers, publishes schoolbooks, establishes Sunday schools, reading rooms and libraries, publishes works of literature, bestows rewards, and confers public distinctions on persons who have made themselves conspicuous by their generosity and philanthropic conduct.
Paris, France, December 12TH, 1872.
We arrived in the city of Antwerp, Belgium, seventh of December. It is one of the finest cities in the kingdom, embracing a population of one hundred and thirty-three thousand. It is the principal seaport of the country, carrying on an extensive traffic with Great Britain and Germany. Among other objects of interest, we examined the celebrated cathedral, Notre Dame, three hundred and ninety feet in length and two hundred and sixteen feet in width, the most magnificent Gothic structure in Belgium. It was commenced in the middle of the thirteenth century, and completed one hundred years after. It is the only church in Europe that has six aisles. Its skilfully executed and elaborate carvings, numerous paintings by celebrated artists, Mosaic work of the finest description, marble statues of exquisite workmanship, gorgeous gildings, and decorations of the most costly character, altogether form a scene of great beauty and magnificence. The tower is four hundred and two feet in height and is ascended by six hundred and twenty-two steps. It affords a splendid view of the city and surrounding country. Its chimes are among the most complete in Belgium, consisting of ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is but fifteen inches in diameter, the largest weighs eight tons.
We also visited the Museum, containing a collection of five hundred and sixty pictures, possessing great merit, the productions of celebrated masters. One of these by Rubens, which I consider the most perfect, particularly attracted my attention. It represents Christ crucified between two thieves; Longinus, the Roman officer, mounted on a grey horse, is piercing the Savior's side with a lance; the penitent thief, a grey-haired man, is invoking the Savior for the last time. In the foreground stands the Virgin Mother, whom Mary, the wife of Cleophas, in vain endeavors to console. Farther back, St. John leans against the cross of the impenitent thief, weeping; Mary Magdalene on her knees, at the foot of the cross, implores Longinus to spare the sacred body of her Master.
The whole is drawn with almost startling accuracy; indeed, I never saw a life scene on canvas so strikingly illustrated. The writhing agony of the impenitent malefactor, whose legs have just been broken by a Roman soldier, while on the contrary, the composed expression of the other, though worn by suffering—all depicted with such marvelous exactness, impressed me for the moment with a feeling that I was witnessing the reality of this shocking scene.
Antwerp justly boasts of many public edifices of great beauty and magnificence. The royal palace, erected over one hundred years ago in fantastic pompadour style, drew our attention, though perhaps failed to excite our admiration. This city has a splendid theatre, its interior handsomely decorated with paintings, and busts in marble and bronze of eminent composers and dramatists, among whom are Shakespeare, Moliere, Euripides and Mozart. The Zoological Garden contains a fine collection of animals, which, with its garden and beautiful park, is considered one of the best in Europe.
We left Antwerp the following afternoon and arrived at Brussels in the evening. Brussels is the capital of Belgium, the residence of the royal family, and contains a population of one hundred and seventy thousand, only six thousand of whom are Protestants. This city has many points of resemblance to Paris, the capital of France, so much so that it is frequently called "Paris in miniature." The majority of the citizens speak the French language; the Flemish is chiefly spoken by the lower classes.
As usual on entering Catholic cities, we paid our respects to its celebrated cathedrals, of which St. Nicholas is the most prominent. It is of Gothic structure, and presents an imposing appearance. Its interior embraces characteristics similar to other Catholic churches—images, elaborate carvings, fine marble statuary, sumptuous gildings, magnificent decorations, together with paintings in almost endless variety. Some have rather singular representations, such, for instance, as the "Expulsion from Paradise," done in carved wood, with great skill and at vast labor and expense. Among the beautiful foliage are seen all kinds of animals—a bear, dog, cat, eagle, vulture, peacock, owl, dove, squirrel, and lastly, an ape eating an apple. These are surmounted by the Virgin with the Child, who crushes the head of the serpent with the cross.