THE END
INDEX
Abdur Rahman, Amir of Afghanistan, quoted, [288].
Agriculture, U. S. Department of, [207].
Amban, the, [253].
American Baptist Mission, [81], [85], [158], [183].
American engineers, surveying in Yunnan, [29].
American Legation, the, at Peking, [232], [237].
A-Mi-chou, [21], [22].
Amur River, [251].
Annamese, in Haiphong, appearance and dress of, [12], [13];
and the Red River R.R., [15].
Annamese police, [7], [8].
Annamese Tirailleurs, [18], [19].
Anning River, valley of, the shortest trade-route between Szechuan and Indo-China, [71];
[78], [89].
Arnold Arboretum, [66].
Assam hills, life on tea-plantations of, [17], [18].
Baber, Colborne, in Chien Ch'ang, [74];
cited, [90], [106], [171], [181], [182], [191], [204].
Baikal, Lake, [236].
Bailey, Captain, English officer at Tachienlu, [126 ff.];
his later explorations, [127];
defends Tibetans, [132];
[139], [175].
Barrow, riding in a, [169].
Batang, [124], [126], [128], [131], [160].
Bayard, Fort, [7], [8].
Beggars, absence of, in West China, [46].
Bishop, Mrs. Bird, [216].
Black Rock Rapid, [216], [217].
Bogda Ola (Holy Mountain), [274], [282].
Bogdo, the Living Buddha, status of, [277];
superstitions concerning, [278];
a second-rate god, [278];
his motor-cars, [279].
And see Gigin, the.
Bonze, the, his Buddhism, [282].
Boxer rising (1900), [28], [225], [233].
Brick tea, transportation of, [105], [106];
how prepared, [159], [160].
Bridges in Yunnan, [61].
British American Tobacco Co., [67], [183], [235], [242].
Brooke, Lieutenant, murder of, by Lolos, [75].
Buddha, colossal figure of, at Chia-ting, [180], [181], [182], [200], [201];
reigns supreme on Omei, [189];
his tooth at Wan-nien Ssu, [191].
Buddha, the Living, [253], [277].
And see Bogdo and Gigin.
"Buddha's Glory," [189].
Buddhism, and lamaism, [138];
many forms of, [282];
lamaism a "black travesty" of, [282];
[317].
Buggy, an American, in Mongolia, [257], [264].
Burma, Upper, [3].
Burmese, the, [12].
Caindu (Chien Ch'ang), [74].
Calcutta, [112].
Camel Road, Kalgan to Urga, [245 ff.]
Camels, in Mongolia, [263].
Cameras, feeling of Chinese toward, [156], [157].
Canadian Methodist Mission, [183].
Canton, House of the Dead at, [87];
[24], [29], [222].
Cart Road, Kalgan to Urga, [244].
Catty, the, [33].
Cave-dwellings, [204].
Chair-bearers, their traditional calls, [149], [150] and [n.]
Chala, King of, his summer palace, [133], [134]-[136];
his troubles, [135];
[125].
Chang-ho-pa, [148]-[150].
Changsha, outbreak at, [226], [227].
Chang-te-ho, [224], [227].
Chang-Tien-You, railway engineer, [234].
Chao Erh Feng, death of, [125].
Chen River, [123].
Chen Chia Ch'ang, theatrical performance at, [185].
Chengtu, missionaries from, [133];
under the "Emperor of the West," [171], [172];
the modern city, [172 ff.];
its fine silks and embroidery, [172], [173];
its shops, [173], [175];
British Consul-General at, [173];
European community of, [173], [174];
missionaries at, [174];
Tartar population of, [174];
the Manchu quarter, [174], [175];
one of the most advanced cities of China, [175];
police of, [176];
French Consul-General at, [176];
university of, and its students, [176], [177];
railway question and the revolution at, [177];
rivalry between Chung-king and, [209];
[24], [42], [105], [198], [203], [226].
Chengtu, plain of, [167 ff.];
its people, [167];
its bad roads, [167].
Cheng-kiang, [163].
Cheo, Mr., [211].
Chê-pei, [56].
Cheung-chou, Richthofen quoted concerning, [165], [166], [167].
Chiang-yi, [65].
Chia-ting, seat of white-wax industry, [73];
the "rose-red city," [180 ff.];
the flood of 1786, [181], [182];
its insalubrious climate, [183];
Protestant missions at, [183];
warfare over cigarette-smoking at, [183];
coolie hongs in, [183];
the first city in Szechuan to declare for the Republic, [201];
[161], [178], [179], [203], [204].
Chia-ting plain, beauty of, [180];
subject to floods, [181];
[184].
Chien-Ch'ang, district of, diversity of crops in, [71], [72];
poppy banished from, [72], [94];
white-wax industry of, [72], [73];
almost unknown to Western world until lately, [73], [74];
dangers of travelling in, due to neighbourhood of Lolos, [74], [75];
recent steps of government to ensure safety in, [77].
Chien-Ch'ang valley, [33], [42].
Chien-Men, the (Peking), [230].
Chihli, province of, [227], [316].
Children in the East, how "brought up," [284].
Chin Ch'uan, region of, almost unknown to Europeans, [119].
Chin Ch'uan River, [78], [118].
Chin Tien (Golden Temple), [32].
Chin Tien Monastery, on summit of Omei Shan, [193]-[199].
China, and Tibet, meet in Tachienlu, [123];
western boundary of, [124];
revolution in, effect of, on relations between China and Tibet, uncertain, [125];
grouping of trees in, [154];
status of missionaries in, [158], [159];
fruit and vegetables in, [206];
and Mongolia, meet at Kalgan, [235];
hold of, on North Mongolia, insecure, [285];
is she in decay? [317], [318];
impression produced by, [318], [319];
her future, [321].
And see Chinese and Chinese Government.
China, West. See West China.
China Inland Mission, [126], [216].
Chinese, the, characteristics of, [42], [43];
their footwear, [44];
of Yunnan and Szechuan, physical characteristics of, [51];
dote on children, [56];
climatic susceptibilities of, [58];
and their dead, [87], [88];
spend freely for food, [108];
how sacred places are used by, [113];
their lack of nerves, how illustrated, [120];
in Tachienlu, [124], [131];
military achievements of, [125], [126];
good manners of, [129];
their feeling toward the camera, [156], [157];
ordinarily peaceable, [176];
their fondness for theatrical performances, [185];
friendly relations of Europeans and, in Chung-king, [209];
their dramatic ways, [230];
their interference in Mongolia, [253];
unwelcome aliens there, [276];
how like they are to us! [309 ff.];
their self-reliance, [314];
found all over the East, [314];
slight outward variations in, in different parts of the Empire, [316];
a vast majority of, have a common tongue, [317].
And see Coolies.
Chinese city, the, in Peking, [230].
Chinese funeral, a, [142].
Chinese Government, projects of railways in Yunnan, [29];
said to encourage lamaism in Mongolia, [282].
Chinese inns. See Inns.
Chinese laborers, on the Red River R.R., [15].
Chinese mob, the [176].
Chinese revolution. See Revolution.
Chinese temples. See Temples, Chinese.
Chinese women. See Women, Chinese.
Ch'ing Ch'i, [105].
Chit (letter of recommendation), the, [211], [212].
"Chou," meaning of, in place-names, [31n.]
Christians, Chinese, in Hui-li-chou, [70];
superiority of, to their fellows, [128], [129].
"Chuman" pagodas, of Szechuan, [204].
Chu-ma-tien, [224].
Ch'un, Prince, Regent, [231].
Chung-king, the Chicago of West China, [207]-[213];
a treaty port, [208];
no limit to its development, [208];
missionaries in, [208];
foreign community in, [208], [209];
friendliness of Europeans and Chinese in, [209];
rivalry between Chengtu and, [209];
Merchant class of, [209], [210];
cosmopolitan club at, [210], [211].
Cigarettes, [67], [183].
Cloud Mountains, the, [64], [65].
Cloudy Sun, City of the, [214].
Coffins, Chinese, [93], [94].
Colborne Baber. See Baber.
Colonial expansion, sought by Doumer, [9].
Confucius, [317].
Constitution of the U. S., lecture
on at Chung-king Men's Club, [210].
Cooking, in Yunnan, [58].
Coolies, for overland journey, importance of, [33];
contract for, [35], [36];
their wages, [36];
their character and dress, [43];
their cleanliness, [48];
long journeys often undertaken by, [212], [213];
[203], [204], [205].
See Fu t'ou and Hong.
Coolies of the author's caravan (hired at Yunnan-fu), [51], [52], [56], [57], [59], [65], [67], [79], [80], [83], [84];
(hired at Ning-yüan-fu), [85], [96], [97], [103], [107], [108], [115], [121], [129], [130], [141], [143], [144], [148], [156], [162], [169], [170];
their thoughtfulness and good-will, [149];
dismissed at Chengtu, [178];
(hired at Chia-ting), [183], [185].
"Crooked sterns," [214].
Cua-Cam River, [11].
Customs regulations, tend to check development of trade in Tonking, [15].
"Daisy," [31].
Dalai Lama, the, [277], [278].
Davidson, Warburton, [209], [210].
DeMailla, his History of China, [171].
Dead, the, kept unburied in China, [87].
Didier, M., [224].
Dogs, in Mongolia, [259].
Dong Dang, [10].
Doumer, M., Governor General of Indo-China, his energetic forward policy, [9]-[11];
and the exposition of 1902, [13].
Dragon Festival, [176].
East, characteristics common to, different races of, [42], [43].
Eliot, Sir Charles, quoted, [28].
Emperor of Heaven, Mountain of the, [214].
"Emperor of the West," the, at Chengtu, [171], [172].
Erh-tsun, [53], [54].
Escort of soldiers, [38]-[40];
why urged upon travellers, [38];
vagaries of, [41], [121], [122];
change of, [55];
in Szechuan, [77], [78], [98].
Europeans, and native women, [17], [18];
and Chinese, in Chung-king, [209].
Exchange, varying rate of, [97].
Fan t'an, played by coolies, [59].
Fei Yüeh Ling, [111].
Ferry, Jules, "l'homme de Tonking," [9].
Flowers, profusion of, in mountains of Yunnan and Szechuan, [62], [65], [66];
in the Ta Tu valley, [144], [145];
north of Urga, [292].
Foo-chou, [214].
Food, method of cooking in Yunnan, [58], [59];
some details concerning, [108], [109]-[111].
Forbidden City, the, in Peking, [230].
Foreign Legion, French, [18], [19].
France in China, [18 ff.]; [224], [225].
French, race-prejudice among the, [18];
in Yunnan, [29].
French consulates in Yunnan, like fortified outposts, [29].
French troops in Indo-China, familiar with vernacular, [20].
French sisters, [141], [142].
Friends' Institute, club at Chung-king, visit to, [210], [211];
a new departure in mission work, [211].
Friends' Mission, the, at Chung-king, [209], [210], [213].
Fruit-growing in China, [206], [207].
"Fu," meaning of, in place-names, [31n.]
Fu River, the Min sometimes so-called, [203].
Fulin, [42], [89], [102], [103].
Fu-ming-hsien, [55], [56].
Fu t'ou (head coolie), and "the squeeze," [96], [97];
an opium-smoker, [107], [108];
[35], [36], [48], [85], [130], [140], [151], [164], [165].
Gardens, in Mongolia, [260].
Genghis Khan, [74], [281], [282].
Gigin, the (the Living Buddha), Urga the home of, [276], [277].
And see Bogdo.
Glass, rarely seen in West China, [40].
Glorious Dragon Rapid, [214].
Gobi Desert, crossing the, [256 ff.];
the outfit, [256], [257];
an American buggy in, [257];
the party, [257], [258];
fine weather in, [258], [259];
gardens in, [260];
disadvantages of bathing while crossing, [262];
wild life in, [262], [263];
vegetation in, [264];
no houses in, [264], [265];
[235], [251], [252], [304].
Goddess of Mercy. See Kuan Yin.
Goddess of Mercy Rapid, [214].
Goitre, in Southern Szechuan, [68].
Golden Sand, River of, the Yangtse so called, [64].
Golden Stream, the, [118].
Golden Temple, the, [32].
Goosetail Rock, [217].
Gordon, Charles G. ("Chinese"), [229].
Grape-nuts, in China, [240], [241].
Great Cold Mountains, the (Lololand),
[75].
Great Encampment, the. See Ta Huren.
Great Snow Mountains, [117].
Great River, the. See Yangtse.
Great Wall of China, the, at Nankow, [234];
[246], [285], [304].
Gurkhas of Nepal, beaten by Chinese, [126].
Hainan, island of, [11].
Haiphong, difficult approach to, [11];
customs officials at, [11];
at police headquarters in, [12];
described, [12], [13];
[3], [4], [5], [10].
Haitang, [95], [96].
Hakka, [142].
Han River, and Yangtse, three cities at junction of, [222].
Han Yüan Kai, [104], [105].
Han Hai. See Gobi Desert.
Hankow, the Chicago of East China, [207];
and its sister cities, [222];
the trading centre of the three, [222];
the revolution at, [222];
preparing for journey to Peking at, [223], [224];
[38], [219], [227].
Hanoi, capital of Tonking, [10];
one of the finest cities in the Far East, [13].
Hanyang, rival of Bombay in manufactures, [222].
See Hankow.
Heavenly Mountains. See T'ien-Shan.
Hei Shi Tan, [216], [217].
Himis lamassery, [124].
Hoang River, bridge across, [228];
contrast between, and Yangtse, [228].
Hoi-hou, [11], [29].
Ho-k'ou, [10], [18], [19], [20], [66], [67].
Honan, province of, [227].
Hong (guild), coolie, [33], [35], [36].
Hong Kong, where East and West meet, [4];
essentials of outfit procurable cheap at, [4], [5];
[240].
Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, [37].
Horse thieves, warning against, [269].
Horses, in Mongolia, [263].
Hosie, Sir Alexander, [93], [94], [119].
Hou Wei Têh, [243].
Hsi-Liang, and the opium trade of Yunnan, [25].
Hsiao Hsiang Ling, [91].
"Hsien," meaning of, in place-names, [31n.]
Hua-lin-ping, [112], [114], [161].
Huc, Abbé, quoted, [249], [250], [279], [280].
Hui-li-chou, European women rare visitors to, [69];
native Christians in, [70];
[67], [68].
Humphreys, Dr., missionary, [81].
Hupeh, province of, [38], [218], [227].
Hupeh money, [37], [38].
Ichang, from Chung-king to, by river, [213 ff.];
a busy place, and why, [221];
its location, [221], [222];
[177], [226].
Impedimenta, advice as to, [4]-[6];
all essentials procurable at Hong Kong, [4].
Imperial City, the, in Peking, [230].
Imperial Post-Office, efficiency of, [127], [128].
India, [310].
Indo-China, French rule in, [8], [9];
under Doumer, [9], [10];
little outward difference between men and women of, [19].
Inns, in villages, [47];
in towns, [47], [48];
plenty of hot water the one luxury of, [48];
foul-smelling, [48];
in Mongolia, [248].
Intemperance, absence of, in East, simplifies travel there, [84].
Interpreter, the, a Kiangsi man, [4], [5];
his democratic instincts, [203];
dismissed at Hankow, [224];
[34], [77], [78], [79], [86], [96], [97], [99], [100], [108], [121], [133], [140], [151], [152], [156], [178].
Iro River, travelling on, [305], [306].
Irrawaddy River, [71].
Ivan, tarantass driver, [292], [294], [297], [298], [299].
Jack (terrier), [6], [11], [12], [32], [33], [34], [40], [45], [46], [60], [61], [95], [103], [104], [108], [127], [140], [143], [146], [147], [149], [151], [153], [166], [170], [178], [192], [205], [224], [229], [239], [259], [264], [265], [274], [275], [295], [297], [298], [307].
Jam, in praise of, [240].
Japan, and the Manchurian railway, [246].
Japanese, at Chengtu, [175].
Jardine, Mattheson & Co., [225].
Jee-ka, [56].
Kalgan, China and Mongolia meet at, [235];
main roads from, to Urga, [244], [245];
an outpost of Russia, [246];
[233], [238], [239], [241], [242], [243], [252], [257], [266], [273], [281].
Kalgan-Peking R. R., the first railway constructed by Chinese, [234].
Kang (furnace), [248].
Kang Hi, [116].
Kerosene, white wax superseded by, for lighting, [73].
Kiakhta, "very western," [303], [304];
its great commercial past, [304];
[289].
Kinsha Kiang. See Yangtse River.
Ku Niang (author's title), [140].
Kuan Yin (Goddess of Mercy), temple to, [113].
Kublai Khan, [49], [74].
Kung-tan, [214].
Kwang-chou-wan, [7], [9];
bay of, [7].
Kwangtung, province of, [51], [105], [316].
Kwei-chou, [55].
Kwei-fu, the "trackers' Paradise," [216];
change in attitude toward foreigners at, [216].
Kweilu, the, river-steamer, [221].
Ladakhis, the, effect of lamaism on, [282];
[131], [146].
Lamaism, in Tachienlu, [124];
aspect and effects of, [138];
strength of, in Mongolia, [279], [280];
said to be encouraged by Chinese Government, [281];
its effect on the people, [281], [282];
a "black travesty" of Buddhism, [282].
Lamas, ferocity of, [131];
different kinds of, [279], [280], [281].
Lamassery, in the Gobi, [265]; at Tuerin, [268];
of Bogdo, at Urga, [277], [278].
Lao-kai, [18]-[20].
Lao-pan (boat-captain), the, [213], [215], [216].
Laughter, the universal solvent, [60].
Leng Chi, [115].
Lesser Trail, the, [140 ff.]
Lhasa, road to, [125], [134];
[126], [127], [128], [131], [160], [274], [280].
Li Ching Hsi, and the opium trade of Yunnan, [26];
and the Pien-ma question, [30].
Li Ping, [167].
Li-chou, [86], [87].
Lime juice, merits of, [240], [241].
"Lincoln," [31].
Literatus. See Interpreter.
Little, Archibald, [116], [209].
Liu, chair coolie, [79], [84].
Liu, cook, from Chung-king, [5];
dismissed at Hankow, [224];
[38], [45], [48], [56], [86], [103], [110], [140], [178], [188], [202], [203], [211].
Liu Sha River, [104].
Loess country, the, [228].
Lo-han, [182].
Lololand, the mysterious, [67], [74], [75];
neighborhood of, complicates travel in the Chien Ch'ang, [75];
measures taken by government thereanent, [77];
[92].
Lolos, in Yunnan, [50];
"tame," [75], [76];
their ethnological status a problem, [76], [77];
their proper appellation uncertain, [76], [77];
[89], [90], [91], [92], [98], [189].
Losus, in Yunnan, [50].
Lu-Ting Ch'iao, bridge at, the only connecting link between China and Tibet, [116], [117];
[115], [139], [142], [145], [161].
Lu-Han R.R., [225], [227], [228].
Lu-ku, [88].
Lung-kai, scanty accommodations at, [63];
[101], [206].
Ma-An Shan Pass, [145], [154].
Ma-fu (horse-boy), [48], [157], [161], [164], [165].
Mai-ma-chin, one of the three cities in Urga, [275], [276];
the Chinese trading settlement, [276].
Mai-ma-chin, on the Siberian frontier, [302].
Manchu rule, its anti-opium policy one of the causes of its overthrow, [26].
Manchuria, [55], [236].
Manchus, downfall of, and the Six-Power loan of 1908, [226].
Mandarin language, some form of, spoken by five sixths of the people of China, [317].
Mandarin Road, the, [104 ff.]
Manners, in China, [129].
Mekong River, [71].
Mencius, quoted, [312].
"Mercury," coolie, [107].
Miaos, in Yunnan, [50].
Mien-ning, [89].
Military schools, in Yunnan, [28].
Military spirit, in Yunnan, [27].
Min River, travelling on, [202 ff.];
name unknown to the Chinese, [203];
native names for, [203];
scenery on, [203], [204];
[64], [73], [178], [180].
Ming dynasty, fall of, [171].
Ming Shan (mountain), famous for tea, [163].
Ming Shan-hsien, [163].
Missionaries, at Ya-chou, [158];
status of, in China, [158], [159];
at Chengtu, [174];
at Chung-king, [208].
Mohammedan rebellion, [50], [54].
Mohammedans in Yunnan, [50].
Monasteries on Omei Shan, picturesque names of, [193].
Monastery of Ten Thousand Years. See Wan-nien Ssu.
Monastery of the Voice of the Waters, [182].
Money, arrangements for, [37], [38];
Yunnan dollars, [37];
Szechuan coins, [37];
Hupeh money, [37], [38];
difficulties concerning, [97], [98];
for the Mongolian journey, [241].
Mongol city, in Urga, [277].
Mongolia, and China, meet at Kalgan, [235];
prospective attractions of, [236], [237];
preparing for travelling in, [237 ff.];
stores, [240], [242], [243];
money, [241];
on the road from Kalgan, [243 ff.];
the "Camel Road" chosen, [245];
exports of, mostly animals, [245];
post-routes across, [245], [246];
Russian influence in, [246];
first impressions of, [247];
the grassland, [247 ff.], [259];
inns in, [248];
tents or huts ("yurts") in, [248]-[250];
"the unchanging East," [248];
the women and children of, [250], [251], [260], [261];
topographical description of, [251], [252];
population of, [253];
government of, [253];
opium habit in, [255];
wives come high in, [261];
Chinese unwelcome aliens in, [276];
lamaism in, [279], [280].
And see Gobi Desert and Mongolia, Northern.
Mongolia, Northern, rainy season in, [270]-[272];
trade of, controlled by Chinese of Mai-ma-chin, [276];
extension of Russian influence in, [284], [285];
railway connection would be advantageous to, [285];
hold of Chinese Government on, insecure, [285], [286];
colonization of, by Chinese, [285], [286].
Mongolian plateau, the, [247 ff.]
Mongolian Road, [244].
Mongolian tents. See Tents.
Mongolian women. See Women, Mongolian.
Mongols, material position of, [253];
lazy, [254];
their herds, [254];
neither manufacturers nor tillers of the soil, [254];
as tea-drinkers, [254];
great endurance of, [254];
intemperate, [254], [255], [260];
fine horsemen, [255];
degenerate sons of a conquering race, [255];
oppressed by Chinese, not by China, [260];
eye-diseases of, [265];
effect of lamaism on, [282];
prefer Russians to Chinese, [285];
not China, but civilization is driving them to the wall, [296], [297].
Mongols, of the author's Mongolian expedition, [257], [258], [265].
Mongols, Northern, [268], [270].
Monks, of Burma, their Buddhism, [282].
Morrison, George B., [237], [238].
Moscow, [236].
Namti River, [18], [21];
valley of, [15], [21].
Nan River, [165].
Nanking, as the possible capital of China, [229];
[159], [226].
Nankow, [233], [234].
Nankow, Pass of, [228].
Napoleon III, [8].
Ni T'ou, [111], [121].
Nicholas II, Tsar, [306].
Nicolai, [292], [295].
Ning-yüan-fu. [33], [34], [37], [71], [74], [75], [80]-[82], [83], [85], [86], [178].
Omei (town), and its pilgrims, [185];
its shops, [186].
Omei, Mount. See Omei Shan.
Omei River, [184], [187].
Omei Shan, the holy of holies, [180];
ascent of, [187 ff.];
myths and legends concerning, [188], [189];
monasteries on, [190], [193], [194];
memories of a three days' stay on the summit of, [194]-[199];
wherein its charm consists, [198], [199], [280].
Opium habit, among coolies, [107], [108];
rare in Mongolia, [255].
Opium trade, in Yunnan, [25], [26];
Manchu government adverse to, [26].
Pai-chang, hiring a pony at, [163]-[165].
Pai-la shu (white-wax tree), [73].
Pailou (memorial arch), [104], [105].
Palm-leaf hats, [19], [20].
Pao-an-ying, [95].
Paper, substitute for glass in West China, [40].
Passports, lack of, [11];
not required within Chinese Empire, [212];
for Mongolia, [237].
Pechihli, Gulf of, [228].
Peking, arrival at, [228];
situation of, [228], [229];
the Tartar Wall, [229 ff.];
the divers cities of, [230];
viewed from the Wall, [231], [232];
the American Legation, [232];
the streets, [232];
to the average European its history begins in 1900, [233];
preparing for Mongolian journey at, [237 ff.];
[24], [163], [176], [222], [223], [280].
Peking cart, an instrument of torture, [243], [244].
Peking railway, the. See Lu-Han R.R.
People's Assembly, the, [230].
Photographing, in Szechuan, [156].
Pien-ma boundary question, [29], [30].
Pilgrim to Lhasa, the, [112].
Pilgrims to Omei Shan, [185], [187], [189], [193], [195].
P'ing-i-p'u, [98], [99].
Polo, Marco, [74], [81], [124], [171], [172], [230], [244], [248], [250].
Pongkiong, [260].
Ponies, Yunnanese, [34], [35].
Poppies, not now cultivated in Yunnan, [26];
banished from Chien Ch'ang, [72], [94].
"Pork money," [36], [96], [97].
Post-routes, between Kalgan and Siberian frontier, [245], [246].
Praying-Stones, [138].
Precious Stone Castle, [214].
Protestant missions in China, achievement of, [158], [159].
P'u-chi, [53].
P'u-hsien Bodhisattva, [189], [190], [191].
P'u Yi, the baby Emperor, and the new government, [231].
Purple City, the, in Peking, [230].
Queue, the, [43].
Railway, projected by Chinese Government, [15], [16].
Railways in China, history of, [225], [226];
the Kalgan-Peking line the first one built by Chinese, [234].
Rainy season, the, in No. Mongolia, [270]-[272].
Rats, [21].
Red lama, the, [258], [265].
Red River R.R., from Hanoi to Yunnan-fu, [14]-[23];
no night traffic on, [14];
accommodations on, [14];
a remarkable undertaking, [14], [15];
engineering difficulties of, [15];
rates on, excessive, [15];
[4].
Reeves, Captain, [237].
Reform movement, in Yunnan, [27].
"Relay," the. See Mongolian Road.
Religion, in India, [310];
in China, [311].
Religions, great diversity of, in Yunnan, [50].
Revolution, Chinese, effect of, on railway project, [16];
[27], [28], [125], [177], [201], [222].
Richthofen, Baron von, [106], [165], [166].
Rivers of Sand. See Sha Ho.
Rockhill, Mr. W. W., American explorer and diplomat, [112].
Roman Catholic missions in China, [158].
Roman Catholic missionaries at Chengtu, [174].
Rosthorn, A. de, his Tea Cultivation in Szechuan, [163].
Russia, and the Mongolian postal service, [246];
her policy of "peaceful penetration," [246];
extension of her influence in No. Mongolia, [284], [285].
Russian Consulate at Urga, [277], [278].
Russian frontier. See Siberian frontier.
Russian settlement in Urga, [277], [291].
Russians, in Urga, [284].
Russo-Asiatic Bank (Urga), [241], [277], [284].
Sacred City, the. See Urga.
Salween River, [71].
Sandals, [43], [44].
"Second Gentleman," the (son of Li Ping), [167].
Sedan-chair, method of travelling in, described, [34].
Sha Ho, [252].
Sha Shen Ho, [244].
Shamo. See Gobi Desert.
Shanghai, [4], [222], [225], [226].
Shans, in Yunnan, [50].
Shantung, [236].
Shields, Dr., [158].
Shields, Mrs., [158].
Shih Ta-k'ai, Taiping leader, [89], [99].
Shyok River, [60].
Si Kiang, the, [29].
Siberian frontier, post-routes from
Kalgan to, [245], [246];
arrival at, [301]-[303].
Siberian Railway, [236], [306], [307].
Sikiang, the, river steamer, from Hong Kong to Haiphong on, [5]-[11].
Sinden-fu, Marco Polo's name for Chengtu, [171].
Singapore, Chinese Consul-General at, his mourning, [88].
Six-Power Loan of 1908, proved the undoing of the Manchus, [226].
Soap, in Mongolia, [261], [262].
Soothill, Dr., [159].
"Squeeze," the, [96], [97].
Standard Oil Co., and the white-wax industry, [73];
[85].
Standard Oil tins, use of, in Mongolia, [250].
Stevenson, Owen, missionary, [33], [41], [53].
Süchi, [184].
Sugar, a great delicacy in Mongolia, [301].
Suifu, [64], [75], [203], [206].
Sung-lin, inn at, [87].
Szechuan province, natives of, [51];
travelling in, [63 ff.];
the Cloud Mountains, [64];
private school in, [67], [68];
condition of people in, [68];
western boundary of, [124];
beginning of its later history, [171], [172];
viceroy of, [172];
Railway League of, and the revolution, [177];
"chuman" pagodas of, [204];
the river the sole highway to, [219];
future of, [219], [220];
[5], [26], [37], [39], [55].
Szechuan dogs, and the sun, [64].
Szechuan money, [37].
Szechuan road, the, [217], [218].
Ta Ho, [235].
Ta Fo Rapid, [181].
Ta Huren, the Mongol city of Urga, [277], [286]-[288];
alien elements in, [287], [288];
[291].
Ta Liang Shan (Lololand), [74], [75], [92].
Ta Shueh Shan, [117].
Ta Tu Ho, the limit of direct Chinese administration, [124];
its only bridge, [116], [117], [139];
its change of name, [118], [119];
valley of, [114], [115], [144], [145];
[42], [89], [99], [101], [143], [161], [180], [181], [182], [184].
Tachienlu, sui generis, [123];
situation of, [123];
China and Tibet meet in, [123];
in the grip of lamaism, [124];
principality of King of Chala, [125];
government of, [125];
key to the western country, [125];
meeting Capt. Bailey at, [126 ff.];
postal arrangements at, [128];
the people the most interesting feature of, [130], [131];
practically all China-Tibet traffic passes through, [132], [133];
visit to a temple at, [136]-[138];
priests of, [138];
[105], [106], [110], [119], [141], [160], [248].
Tailless dog, hunt for the, [205].
Taiping rebellion, the, [89], [99].
Ta-kiang, the Min sometimes so-called, [203].
Taoism, [317].
Tar Ho, [123].
Tarantass, travelling in a, [289]-[304].
Tarchendo River, [118], [119], [120], [123], [141], [142];
valley of, [119], [120], [121].
Tartar City, the, in Peking, [230].
Tartar Wall, the, at Peking, [229 ff.]
Tashi Lama, the, [277].
Ta-shu-p'u, unique instance of
native unfriendliness at, [99], [100];
[101], [105].
Tchagan Hou, [269], [271], [274], [289].
Tea, on the Mandarin Road, [105 ff.];
heavy loads of carriers of, [105];
of Ming Shan, [163].
And see Brick tea.
Tea, Szechuan, [159].
Tea-houses, on the Mandarin Road, [108], [109];
[44].
Temple of Heaven, the, [230], [231].
Temples, Chinese, generally uninteresting, [32].
Teng-hsiang-ying, [89], [90], [92].
Tents, in Mongolia, described by Marco Polo and by Abbé Huc, [248]-[250].
Tibet, and China, meet in Tachienlu, [123];
frontier of, [124];
relations with China, how affected by Chinese revolution, [125];
Chinese conquest of, [125], [126].
Tibet, Western, adventure in, [60].
Tibetan Mountains, [92], [123], [162].
Tibetans, consume vast quantities of brick-tea, [105], [160];
in Tachienlu, [124], [131], [134];
defended by Captain Bailey, [132];
in Omei, [190];
and Mongols, [248];
effect of lamaism on, [282].
Tien-chüan-chou, approach to, [153], [154];
[155].
Tien-Shan, [251].
Tientsin, [257], [279].
Tobacco, use of, universal, [66], [67].
Tola River, [274], [275], [276].
Tommy Atkins, in India, and the vernacular, [20].
Tonking, under Doumer, [9]-[11];
its value as the key to China, [10].
Tonking-Yunnan R.R. See Red River R.R.
"Trackers" on the Yangtse, [215], [216], [218], [219].
Travellers on Red River R.R., [16], [17].
Tso-ling Ho, [62].
Tsungli Yamen, [229].
Tuan Fang, [226], [227].
Tuerin, [268], [269].
Urga, the Sacred City, approach to, [273], [274];
first sight of, [274];
arrival at, [275];
three cities in one, [276], [277];
Chinese government of, [277];
described, [277];
worship of Bogdo in, [277];
pilgrimages to, [278];
a wealthy Mongol household in, [282]-[284];
railway prospects of, [285];
difficult departure from, [289]-[291];
[6], [29], [238], [239], [240], [241], [243], [244], [245], [252], [253], [257], [304].
Vegetables, washing, in China, [206];
fresh, for Mongolian journey, [242].
Verchneudinsk, [304], [305], [306], [307].
Villages, in Yunnan, [45].
Wa Ssu Kou, [118], [119], [141], [142].
Wagons Lits, Hôtel des, at Peking, [228].
Wai-wu-pu, the, [237], [243].
Wang, interpreter, cook, and general factotum, for the Mongolian journey, [237], [241], [242], [257], [262], [269], [275], [289], [290], [291], [294], [297], [299].
Wan-hsien, [177], [214], [219].
Wan-nien Ssu, [190], [191].
Water, a serious problem in the Gobi Desert, [264].
Water Gate (Peking), [229].
Wellwood, Mr., missionary, [81], [84].
Wellwood, Mrs., [178].
Wells, in Gobi Desert, [252], [264].
West, the, zeal of, mars as well as mends, [129].
West China, former ways of reaching, [3];
now simplified by French enterprise, [3].
West River valley, [16].
White Emperor's Temple, the, [217].
White Tsar, the, [246].
White-wax industry, the, [72], [73];
wrecked by Standard Oil Co., [73].
Wild life, in the Gobi Desert, [262], [263].
Windbox Gorge, [216].
"Wine money," [83], [84].
Wives, come high in Mongolia, [261];
their status, [261].
Wolves, Mongolian, [262], [263].
Women, Chinese, qualities of, [86].
Women, Mongolian, their vanity, [261], [262];
their dress, [270], [271];
[250], [251].
Woosung, [225].
Wuchang, provincial capital of Hupeh, [222].
See Hankow.
Wu-pan (boat), down the Min and Yangtse in, [202 ff.]
Wu-ting-chou, [57]-[60].
Ya Ho, difficult navigation of, [161];
scenery on, [161], [162];
valley of, [157];
[152], [154], [180], [184].
Ya-chou, [105], [106], [139], [140], [155], [157], [158], [159], [161], [166], [207].
Yalung River, [67], [71].
Yang, Mr., [211].
Yangtse River, crossing, [63];
its swift current, [63], [64];
the "River of Golden Sand," [64];
at Suifu, [206];
travelling on, [206 ff.];
gorges of, [218];
at Ichang, [221];
and Han, three cities at junction of, [222];
contrast between, and the Hoang, [228];
[3], [37], [42], [71], [116], [163], [165].
And see Min River.
Yellow Emperor, the, [189].
Yellow River. See Hoang.
"Young Ladies." See Annamese Tirailleurs.
Younghusband expedition to Lhasa, [126].
Yuan Shih Kai, [227].
Yuan-pu, the, [192].
Yüeh-hsi, [94].
Yun Bay, [16].
Yunnan, province of, effects of Mohammedan rebellion in, [27];
the railway brings new life to, [27];
the Reform movement in, [27], [28];
new military spirit in, [27], [28];
significance of adhesion to western ideas, [27], [28];
dread of foreign interference in, [28], [29];
French encroachments in, [29];
French consulate in, [29];
government projects of railways in, [29];
Bureau of Foreign Affairs and its chief, [30], [31], [38];
travelling across, [42 ff.];
meaning of the name, [49];
a "land of sunshine," [49];
varied inhabitants of, [49], [50];
conquest of, by Kublai Khan, [50];
proportion of tribes in population of, [50];
ethnological map of, a wonderful patchwork, [50];
variety of religions in, [50];
a fine field for civil discord, [50];
natives of, [51];
hill-roads in, [52];
travelling among the mountains in, [54 ff.];
estimated population of, [55];
[3], [9], [22].
Yunnan dollars, [37].
Yunnan pony, [102].
Yunnan-fu, from Haiphong to, by rail, [13], [14];
approach to, [21], [22];
its picturesque situation, [23];
its climate, [23];
an unattractive city, [24];
its lake, [24], [25];
famous for its metal work, [25];
opium trade banished from, [25], [26];
military school in, [28];
French predominance in, [29];
a native official hostess at, [31];
excursions from, [32];
hiring coolies at, [33]-[35], [36];
departure from, [41], [42];
[3], [21].
Yurts (Mongolian huts), [248], [249].