HERL BODIES: Both peacock and ostrich herl is used for bodies. These make a fuzzy body. Tie in one or two strands by the tip end and wind on edgewise.
HACKLES: These are the most important part of the dry fly. Only those from the neck of a mature cock are satisfactory. Hackles for the dry fly must be stiff with very little or no web. With such hackles a dry fly can be sparsely dressed as it should be and still maintain its natural balance and floating qualities. On the other hand, a wet fly should sink readily, and should be made with very soft webby hackles. These absorb water quickly, and have better action in the water. Contrary to the customary way to tie hackles on the wet fly, as explained in the chapter "Wet Flies", I find it very convenient and economical to strip the fibers from any size hackle, clip off the butt ends to the desired length and tie them on the bottom of the hook, the same as buck tail is tied on. As wet flies should have hackles only on the bottom or underneath side, many hackles that are otherwise too large can be used in this way.
TAILS: A few fibers from a golden or silver pheasant neck tippet, whisks from a hackle feather, a strip of wing or breast feather, a few hairs, etc., are used for tails. Many of the standard patterns are tied without tails; however, on all of my dry flies, I tie three or four stiff fibers or hairs. They balance the fly and help it to float much better.
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Two-thirds actual size
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CHEEKS OR SHOULDERS: As per Fig. 9, Diagram 1, these are used on a great many of the fancy flies. These are straps of one or several feathers of contrasting colors. Jungle cock feathers, golden pheasant tippets, silver pheasant body feathers, as on the Grey Ghost streamer fly, blue chatterer, and many other fancy feathers according to pattern and fancy are used for this purpose. A pair of jungle cock tippets often called eyes, added to a Bucktail Streamer will often take trout, when the same pattern without the jungle cock will not.
RIBBING: Tinsel, Wool, Silk, Horse Hair, Quill, etc., are used for ribbing. The tinsel from your Xmas tree will do, but it is much better to use tinsel made for the purpose, as it will not tarnish so quickly and is much stronger. It is advisable before using tinsel to place a drop of good, clear head lacquer between the thumb and finger and draw the tinsel through it. This makes it tarnish-proof, and is particularly advisable with the oval and round tinsel that is wound over a silk core. Besides tarnish-proofing it, it will keep the tinsel from coming apart. Tinsel bodies should be lacquered after they are finished.
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