Prince and Princess William of Prussia did not remain many days after my arrival. When they were gone, the Landgrave and Landgravine took me to dine with the Landgrave of Hesse, at Rumpenheim, near Frankfort. He was the brother of the late elector, and son of the Princess Royal of England, daughter of George II. He had not long before lost his wife, a Princess of Nassau, by whom he had had several children, one of whom is the Duchess of Cambridge. Her two eldest, Prince George[[98]] and Princess Augusta, were then staying with him and his unmarried daughter, Princess Louisa, as was also his sister-in-law, a Princess of Nassau, who had a house in Frankfort. Rumpenheim had been built by the Landgrave Frederick’s mother, quite in the style of an old-fashioned English country-house, with a print-room, and furniture such as was in vogue ninety years ago. The garden was laid out after the same model. Everything was remarkably neat, and the dinner very good. The Landgrave had not forgotten his English, and talked much of his visit to London, and of “Aunt Emily.” I believe he was at that time called “the handsome Prince of Hesse,” and he had certainly great remains of beauty.
A violent thunderstorm accompanied us during the greater part of our journey back to Homburg. The Landgrave, with his aide-de-camp, M. Herman, led the way, according to his usual custom, in a drosky, and very prudently made us go as slowly as possible, in order not to attract the lightning. I have seen few countries in which the thunderstorms are so violent as in Germany.
On the 14th of August I took leave of the Landgravine. The Landgrave gave me four of his horses to take me to Frankfort, and put me into the carriage himself. On the 18th, I left Frankfort, and passed through Darmstadt, Heidelberg, and Heilbrunn, to Louisburg, the residence of the Queen-Dowager of Würtemberg. It was just noon when I arrived, and I was conducted to the Queen-Dowager, who received me most graciously. Her countenance was delightful; her manners equally courteous and dignified. I felt as if I had long known her. We entered the drawing-room at one o’clock, when she introduced me to the ladies of her Court, and presented the gentlemen, after which we sat down to dinner in the adjoining room. Princess Pauline, her grand-daughter, and daughter of Prince Paul of Würtemberg, was living in the castle with her governess, and dined always with the Queen. Prince Frederick and Prince Augustus came occasionally. Her eldest sister was already married to the Grand-Duke Michael, brother of the Emperor of Russia. The kindness of the Queen-Dowager to these young people is not to be described. Indeed, she was continually occupied in doing good. I know not which was most to be praised, her devoted attachment to her own family, to the memory of her beloved father, and to the honour of her own country, or her kindness to the family and country of which she had become a member and an inhabitant.
[Miss Knight remained with the Queen-Dowager, at her Majesty’s pressing invitation, until the 11th of September, when she proceeded to Baden-Baden for a fortnight. While there she received a letter from the Queen-Dowager, requesting her to return in the first week in November, and spend the winter with her. At Baden, Miss Knight was presented to the Queen of Sweden, of whom she speaks as being “still handsome, and dignified in her manners.” The month of October Miss Knight spent in Switzerland, chiefly at Berne, and on the 5th of November again became the guest of the Queen-Dowager, then residing at Louisburg. The following extracts are selected from her rough diary.]
The Queen-Dowager tells me that the late King of England used often to mention a story which was traditional in his family. This was, that George I., not long before his last voyage to Hanover, where he died, dreamed that his divorced wife, the unfortunate Princess of Zell,[[99]] came to meet him dressed in green. He was alarmed at this dream, but fell asleep, and dreamed it a second time. He then made a knot in his handkerchief, and prayed that if it were meant as a warning he might find the knot untied in the morning; which, as the story goes, he did. He therefore told the Duchess of Kendall, his favourite, that if she had anything to ask of him she had better make haste, for he did not think he should live long.
With respect to the mysterious death of the first wife of the late King of Würtemberg, a Princess of Brunswick,[[100]] the Queen-Dowager tells me her husband said that she was always imprudent; but that when she was in Russia with him the Empress Catherine gave her very bad advice, and had great power over her. One evening, instead of retiring with him and the Grand-Duke and Duchess, as usual, she went out of the other door with Catherine. He never saw her again, but went off, and took away his children with him. The Queen-Dowager says she died in a Russian fortress; but whether poisoned by order of the Empress, or in child-bed, cannot be known.
Christmas-eve; snow and frost. We dined in the library at five o’clock. The doors of the Queen’s apartment were opened, and tables covered with presents appeared. The Princess Pauline and her two brothers were the first whom the Queen introduced to their respective tables. She then took me to mine, on which were placed a travelling-case in small compass, containing a silver goblet, knife, fork, tablespoon, and teaspoon, with a little box for pepper and salt—all in silver, in a morocco case; a gold bracelet, with a mosaic of the Coliseum at Rome; amethyst cross and earrings, with small diamonds; two small silver candlesticks; two pieces of silk for gowns, one a dove-colour Turkish satin, the other a violet figured silk with pansies; a bracelet of cherries perfectly imitated; several bonbonneries; a little box with small bottles of perfumes; figures in sugar of Swiss peasants; bonbons of different descriptions in great quantity; and a very pretty work-bag and basket of velvet and silk. All the Queen’s ladies had their separate tables, filled with everything that could be agreeable to them. In the other rooms were tables set out with presents for her women and pages.
CHAPTER VIII.
DEPARTURE FROM LOUISBURG—PARIS—CORONATION OF CHARLES X.—LONDON—THE PRINCESS CHARLOTTE’S MONUMENT—ANECDOTES OF CHARLES X.—RETURN TO GERMANY.