February 25th.—Went to a ball at Court in the state apartments, which are magnificent, and really elegant; the music good, and the rooms perfectly well lighted. It was Princess Pauline’s birthday. The Duke of Nassau was there, and, it seems, made her some fine presents on the occasion. He is about thirty-six, not handsome, and rather short; but apparently very good-natured, and not ill-looking. He was with the Duke of Wellington at the battle of Waterloo. Prince Augustus was at the ball. He goes into the army in about three months. I came away before supper, but saw the tables set out in a very handsome style.
April 21st.—The Duke of Nassau arrived with his grand chamberlain and two aides-de-camp. All are to be lodged at the palace. The apartments—which, I think, are those of the late Queen-Dowager—are dressed out with young trees, flowers, &c. The King and Queen have invited me to the wedding, the dinner, and the Polonaise ball for Thursday, but I have excused myself, from being still weak.[[108]]
23rd.—This day the Duke of Nassau was married to Princess Pauline. The bride’s jewels are valued at 300,000 florins.
May 25th.—Dined with the King and Queen. There was no company, but some of their household. They were very gracious, and I took leave of them with feelings of sincere gratitude.
Baden, June 7th.—The weather improved, and the country in great beauty. The theatre opens this evening with the opera of “Tancredi.” Nine hundred and ninety-three strangers already arrived, though the “season” has not yet commenced. Many new houses have been built since I was here in 1824.
8th.—Walked in the afternoon up the hills, where the scenery is very pleasing, and the grass ornamented with wild flowers. I went into the garden of the Grand-Duchess, whose house stands on a little eminence. Baden is composed of various hills, which render its situation very picturesque, and the running rivulets from little cascades, added to the magnificent oaks which enrich the scenery, form altogether a very interesting picture. The shape of the hills does not compose so good a background as might be wished, but the houses, though not of regular architecture, are pretty and fanciful. Most of them have terraces, or balconies, with flowers, and they are interspersed among the high trees on the hills and hillocks.
July 1st.—Baden appears to fill daily. The Grand-Duchess Stéphanie arrived this evening. It seems she was a niece of Count Beauharnais, the first husband of Joséphine, and that Lady Bute (the wife of Sir James Pulteney) took compassion on her, and had her educated in the south of France. She was forced to go to Paris by Bonaparte, who also compelled her to marry the Grand-Duke of Baden, against her inclination and his. Lady Bute left her 1000l. in her will, which Bonaparte would not allow her to accept. The executors, however, placed it in the funds, and she has since received it, with the accumulated interest, settling both on her youngest daughter. She had two sons, who died, and has now three daughters. She usually resides at Mannheim, but went this spring to Paris to consult an oculist, and was well received by the King, Dauphin, Dauphiness, &c. &c.
August 21.—The Russians are supposed to be by this time in possession of Constantinople. By the last accounts they were within a few leagues of that capital.[[109]] I remember my mother used to say, “Russia wants to drive the only honest man out of Europe.”
[In the beginning of September, Miss Knight quitted Baden and travelled by way of Zurich, Lucerne, Berne, Friburg, Geneva, Mont Cenis, and Susa, to Turin. In that city she remained only a few days, and then continued her route to Genoa, where she passed the ensuing winter. She here met an old Roman acquaintance, Signor Gagliassi, who, after visiting her one day, composed the following lines of doubtful gallantry:
Salve, cui Noctis dedit Anglica patria nomen!