Ses amis parlent de son cœur,

Et l’univers de son génie.

There was a lady then at Rome who passed for being remarkably sensible and well informed; but one of her most intimate associates was a young man, who was thought the reverse of all that. I was told that Père Jacquier said to her: “Take care of what you are doing. I believe your conduct to be very correct; but when a man or a woman of great abilities is constantly seen with one of the other sex who has not those advantages, the world is ill natured enough to suppose that the intimacy is not of the mind.”[[118]]


The Emperor Joseph II. was at that time (1783) making many “reforms,” or “innovations,” as they were respectively designated by those who approved or disapproved of them. The Pope thought it expedient to take a journey to Vienna and converse with him on the subject, with a view, if possible, to stop his going too far. The Romans, who have a great talent for satire, criticised this project, and, like other nations, talked not too loyally of his proceedings. They particularly noticed the number of prelates he took with him. He has left us, they said, no one but Monsignore Resta and Monsignore Testa, the only two Cardinals who remained at Rome. It was also suggested that, as the Grand-Duke of Russia called himself “le Comte du Nord,” the Pope ought to leave his card as “l’Abbé du Midi.” The Pope, however, was received most courteously and respectfully by the Emperor, his family, and his subjects. He did not stay long, and when he came back he said that he was perfectly satisfied; that Joseph II. might have some odd ideas; but that, on the whole, he was a sensible, well-meaning man, a good Christian, and one who wished to promote the happiness of his people.

That Pius VI. was a great sovereign cannot be doubted. His draining the Pontine Marshes, his works at Terracina, which his unfortunate fate left unfinished, all he did for the arts, showed what he was. But these great undertakings could not be carried on without expense, and he was often straitened for money. And when these works were commenced how could he foresee the fatal storm that was rising? Had he not reason to believe that what he was doing would eventually enrich his country? His noble demeanour in adversity must have silenced those who were always finding fault with him in his prosperity, as it furnished an incontrovertible proof of the greatness of his mind.

Joseph II. returned his visit, and found at Rome Gustavus III., King of Sweden. A greater contrast could not be imagined than the appearance of those two monarchs. The Emperor, in a plain uniform, attended by an aide-de-camp in an equally simple military dress, and the King of Sweden, with his numerous suite of courtiers in velvets, satins, and embroidery, went to all the great parties; but no fêtes were given to them, at the Emperor’s particular request.

There was something in the manner of Gustavus III. very disadvantageous to him. He chatted much, but always began by a silly sort of laugh, which made one doubt his having the understanding or information which he really possessed. The gentlemen who were with him wore white handkerchiefs tied round one arm, in remembrance of what had been the signal for his partisans in the change of constitution by which he had so greatly offended many of the nobles of his country. It was supposed that these innovations had been suggested to him by M. de Vergennes, and by others, during his stay at Paris. He was apparently very partial to France, and he not only spoke, but wrote, the language perfectly, for I have read some very pretty French comedies composed by him in very good taste; and also a drama, entitled “Gustavus Vasa,” in Swedish, which he was supposed to have written. In this was introduced a scene in imitation of that where Richard III. sees the ghosts of the persons whose death he had caused. Here it is Christian, King of Denmark, who is said to have committed such cruelties in Sweden, and who was conquered by Gustavus Vasa and the brave Dalecarlians. One of the songs, for it is an opera, may be thus translated:

Noble shades! great sires arise!

Sweden’s heroes! knights of yore!