Boot.—The coarser wool and pins. Cast on 28, knit the first row. Then always increase at the end of every row until you have 38 stitches. Do 15 rows without increasing.
Toe.—21st row. Work only on 13 stitches, leaving 25 unworked. You can slip these on a piece of wool. Increase 1 at the end of every row; this increasing is at the end farthest away from the 25 stitches. When you have 23 stitches, decrease at the same place every alternate row, by knitting the last 2 together until you have 13 again. Cast on 25 more for the second side, do 15 plain rows, then decrease at the end of each row, until you have only 28 stitches. Cast off.
Go on with those on the third pin. Raise 12 on the instep, raise the stitches you first cast on. You ought to have 63 stitches. Join the wool; knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, cast off. Sew the Shetland part to the Penelope, beginning at the instep, then sew from the heel, so as to be sure that the sock shall be put in exactly even. Last of all, sew up the boot; all this sewing to be on the wrong side, of course.
Make the strap as described in either of the previous patterns. The last is advised.
This pattern can be knitted in a quicker way for common wear by doing it entirely in Penelope wool.
For full size use bone pins No. 13. Cast on 34 for the sole; work the boot as described, only allow for these extra 6 stitches; then do the roll, for which you raise 15 at the instep. It does not signify whether the roll curls inward or outward, that is a matter of taste. Begin the sock at the instep by raising 14 stitches, knit and pearl alternate rows, to look like a stocking, for 11 rows, then raise the last 14 on each side, and knit all the 42 stitches, pearl the alternate rows.
Do 16 rows, rib 12 rows, cast off very loosely.
Daisy Stitch Shawl.
Knitted with white and coloured wool, any fine kind, and coarse needles. You must increase at the end of every row.
Cast on 5 with white and pearl them. Slip the first, wool forward, knit 3, slip the first of these over the other 2.