Besides the warm water bath there is also another means at our command to produce the differences of swelling. This is the use of ammonia. A. & L. Lumière and Seyewetz, in a treatise published in 1913, on the resistance of gelatine to alkalis, found that cold solutions of ammonia did not attack gelatine but caused it to swell more.

If a bleached print is immersed in an aqueous one per cent solution of ammonia, the film attains in a very short time the highest degree of swelling of which it is capable, without the gelatine in the high lights being softened or damaged. The estimation of the height of the relief, which is so important for the successful carrying out of the inking, is scarcely possible with the ammonia bath, as it is extremely difficult to gauge its action. Therefore, it should only be used in those cases in which the highest swelling is absolutely necessary, as for instance, when using papers which have been strongly hardened in the manufacture, or with prints with very poor contrasts. A further application is with the transfer process, in which on the one hand it permits of the use of very soft inks and on the other hand enables one to keep the gelatine very resistant. Full details on the transfer of bromoil prints will be found in a later chapter. In very extreme cases, one may try to combine the action of the warm water and the ammonia bath, and use a warm ammonia bath. The ½ to 3 per cent solution of sodium carbonate recommended by E. Guttmann acts even more energetically than the ammonia solution.

As is obvious from the foregoing remarks, it will be as well to work usually with water baths and leave the ammonia bath for a last resource, the more so as in the swelling of prints in this bath certain troublesome phenomena may appear, which do not occur when using the water baths. Sometimes the bleached image reappears in the ammonia bath in a brown color; sometimes small white spots appear on the prints which will not take the ink and which, as can be determined by examining them by transmitted light, also exist in the substance of the paper; finally the gelatine film sometimes swells all over, so that the ink is not taken up anywhere. Prints which are failures in consequence of the use of the ammonia bath, should be dried and can be again treated in a warm water bath.

The Utensils.—For the application of the ink the following are required:

Brushes.—A best quality oil-printing brush with very elastic hairs cut on the slant, the so-called stag’s-foot brush, should be used. To apply the ink, a brush should be used with a working surface of from 1½ to 2½ cm (⅝ to 1¼ in.) diameter; by diameter is meant the length of the longer axis of the elliptical surface produced by the slanting cut of the brush. For working-up very small surfaces or for placing accents of color, a brush of about ½ cm (³⁄₁₆ in.) measurement should be used. In certain cases still smaller brushes may be useful. Such brushes are only used for working up details; they are only aids for special work. For the application of the ink generally, only the larger brushes should be used. It is far more difficult to apply the ink evenly with small brushes than with the larger ones, so that their use may cause needless discouragement.

The application of the ink is effected by placing the whole working surface of the brush charged with ink on the print, and then slowly lifting it up; this results in a deposition of ink corresponding to the working surface of the brush used. The smaller the brush the more often it must be applied, and therefore, the greater the probability of irregular inking, especially in those parts where the brush marks overlap. Also small brushes are handled less conveniently than larger ones and smear easily. The first thing to do in inking a bromoil is to obtain a good, even, thin film over the whole surface, to get a general impression of the whole effect. Only then is one in a position to judge how the tone values should be varied. The use of too small a brush unduly protracts this first operation and makes it difficult.

The brushes should be elastic but not too soft. Too soft brushes smear, that is to say, they deposit the ink in a thicker layer at their edges than in the middle and produce elliptical rings of ink, which must always be evened out by hopping.

In determining the size of the brush, the size of the bromoil print must be taken into account. Generally it is easier to work with brushes of from 1½ to 2½ cm (⅝ to 1¼ in.) in diameter. For large sizes up to 30 × 40 cm (12 × 16 in.) brushes of even 4 or 5 cm (1½ or 2 in.) may be used. Such brushes are not cheap, but are practically indestructible, if they are properly cleaned every time after use. The brushes are sold in tubular paper cases; these latter should be preserved and the brushes, after cleaning, put back into them, so that they are covered and the hairs do not get ruffled.

In order to preserve the brushes and keep them in good working order, they must be cleaned as soon as the work is finished, otherwise the ink left in them sets and makes the hairs brittle.

Brushes of long swine bristles with cut ends may also be used; with these especially, clean prints are quickly attained. They are superior to hair brushes of poor grade.