It is very important to taste them, and keep close watch over them by frequent visiting, in order to prevent secondary fermentations and their consequent injurious results, particularly in the case of mellow wines, which thereby transform into alcohol the mucilages and pectines which they contain, and lose their fruity flavor. (See [Red Wine], [White Wine], etc.)
Deposits, Lees, etc.—It is important that they should be freed from ferments and deposits, for muddy, troubled wines are predisposed to secondary fermentations, alcoholic or acetic; they readily contract the bad taste of the lees, bitterness, etc. In all wines, the work of clearing is constantly going on; different matters, among others, coloring matter, several mineral and vegetable salts, etc., which were dissolved in the wine, become insoluble, and these with a portion of the tannin are precipitated to the bottom of the vessel or remain in suspension. It is these matters with the ferments which constitute the lees. Wines deposit more or less, according to their nature and the care bestowed in their making. The most voluminous deposits take place during the first year, and they diminish in volume and consistency at each racking, if properly cared for. When they have become well settled and bright, and have achieved their complete development, the deposit is almost nothing. But it increases anew when the wine declines and begins to degenerate.
To Prevent this Degeneration, and to keep fully developed wines, they must be put into bottles. (See [Wine in Bottles].)
CELLARS.
What has been said in the preceding chapter naturally leads us to the subject of the proper place for storing wine after it has completed its active fermentation. Cellars proper are constructed entirely under ground, and should have vaulted roofs of masonry. If the cellar is under a building, the arch can safely come within two or three feet of the level of the ground, but if no building is over it to protect it from the heat of the sun, it should be four or five feet under ground. Many storehouses for wine are constructed partly above and partly below ground, and others again, entirely above. Undoubtedly those below ground are the best adapted for keeping wines which have arrived at maturity, and for those of little alcoholic strength, but when it is desired to rapidly develop and age an immature wine, it can be sooner accomplished in a place of a higher temperature, and there also can a strong wine be safely kept.
Temperature.—Whatever the degree of temperature, all agree that it should be as nearly uniform as possible; and to insure this, the cellar should face the north or east when practicable. The outer door should not open directly into the cellar or storehouse, but it is better to have the entrance through an outbuilding, or at least with an outer and an inner door, at a considerable distance. If the wine house is above ground, its walls should be of sufficient thickness and of suitable material to prevent changes of temperature, and it should have a loft or room above, so that the wine may be protected from the effects of the rays of the sun falling upon the roof; and it may also be shaded by trees. Some of the older writers say that the proper temperature for a cellar is 50° or 52° F., but so low a degree can only be obtained in a well constructed cellar wholly under ground, and deep, and is not likely to be obtained in this State. Boireau, however, says that in the Gironde the average temperature of the cellars is from 15° to 17° C., or 59° to 62½° F., and if a person can maintain the temperature of his cellar or storehouse in this State uniformly at 60° he will do well.
Dampness.—Formerly, when wooden hoops for casks were used, it was necessary to guard against dampness, for they soon rotted, and required to be frequently renewed; but now with the use of iron in place of wood, less care is necessary in that respect. It is best, however, that they should be sufficiently dry that mould will not form on the cask, for a bad taste may thereby be communicated to the wine. Therefore, cellars should not be constructed in very damp places, should have the soil of the floor well compacted, should be well drained, and well cemented, and if necessary, the floor may be covered with a bed a foot deep composed of a mixture of lime, sand, and gravel, or cinders, or the like, well beaten down, and the whole covered with dry sand. Nothing should be left in the cellar which naturally gathers moisture. All mould should be frequently removed, and the sand removed and replaced with dry sand when necessary. Sawdust should not be used on the floor. In San Francisco, the best cellars have a good asphaltum floor, and I know of nothing better after the odor has passed away.
Ventilation is necessary at times to prevent too much dampness, and also to change the air which may become foul. Underground cellars can be ventilated by means of a large tube, such as is used on shipboard, provided with a broad opening at the top which can be turned in the direction of the wind, conducting the air into the cellar. Storehouses may have small, movable windows. In order to keep down the temperature, the proper time to ventilate is during the coolest part of the night in the warmer parts of this State.
Evaporation of the Wine, however, must be guarded against, which may vary from 3 to 10 per cent. per annum, according to whether the place of storage is open or closed. In France the government makes an allowance in favor of the wholesale merchant of 8 per cent., for loss. And Boireau says that in dry storehouses where the air is continually renewed by ventilation, the loss equals the allowed per cent., and even exceeds it, particularly if the casks are weak and poor, hooped in wood, and if the hoops are not driven when they become dry. The loss may then reach 10 per cent., without extraordinary leakage. By guarding against too free access of air and heat, not only will a very considerable loss by evaporation be avoided, but also other defects which may seriously affect the wine, such as acidity, bitterness, too great dryness, etc. And moreover, in poor cellars the wines require much more attention, such as ulling, racking, and frequent tasting, to protect them from secondary fermentations.
Other Precautions.—From what has been said concerning the influence of light, motion, etc., it results that wine cellars should not be too light, nor be situated under wagon roads where vehicles frequently pass, nor near blacksmiths’ shops, or other noisy industries, such as boiler making, etc. The vicinity of sinks, cesspools, sewers, and the sources of noisome odors generally, should be avoided; and cellars should not be used for storing milk, cheese, vinegar, or any matter liable to ferment, such as fruit, vegetables, etc.; nor should new wines be stored there until their active fermentation has ceased, for these things may either communicate a bad odor and taste to the wine, or set up in it secondary fermentations.