Bert. "I dare say that suits the French well enough, but for my part I like better the customs of the Germans as being more suited to men."

Will. "I have never happened to be in Germany, so, if you don't mind, pray let us hear how they receive a guest."

Bert. "I cannot say whether it is the same everywhere, but I will tell what I have seen. No one welcomes the newcomer, nor do they seem to want guests; for that would seem to them mean and low and unworthy the seriousness of a German. When you have been calling a long time, someone sticks his head out of the little window of the room where the stove is, like a tortoise out of its shell. They live in these rooms almost until midsummer. You have to ask him whether you may stay, and if he doesn't say 'no' you know that you are to have a place. You ask where the stables are and he shows you with a motion of his hand, and you may take care of your horse as best you can. In the larger inns a man shows you to the stables and points out a poor enough place for your horse. The better places they keep for the late-comers, especially for the nobility. If you complain, the first thing you hear is, 'If you don't like it here, go to another inn.' In the cities it is all you can do to get a little hay and you have to pay for it about as much as for grain. When you have cared for your horse you go over into the common room, riding-boots, baggage, mud, and all."

Will. "In France they show you a separate room where you can change your dress, brush up, get warm, and even take a nap if you please."

Bert. "There's nothing of the sort here. In the common furnace you pull off your boots, put on your slippers, change your dress if you will; your dripping clothes you hang by the stove and betake yourself there to dry off. Water is ready if you wish to wash your hands, but generally so nasty that you have to go hunting about for more water to wash away that first ablution."

Will. "It's a fine thing for men not to be spoiled by luxury!"

Bert. "If you arrive at four o'clock in the afternoon you'll not get your supper before nine or ten."

Will. "Why is that?"

Bert. "They get nothing ready until they see all their guests, so that they may serve them all at one time."

Will. "They are trying to cut it close."