ON THE RIVER OF LOST SOULS.
ON THE RIVER OF LOST SOULS.
Rico is the next point. It is accessible from the north by wagon roads, but the entrance from this side is by stage from Rockwood Station on the railway, midway between Durango and Silverton. The road bears northward, and the views to the eastward are far-reaching and noble. The traveler alive to the resources of the region, will note the rich, thick grass, and the great pine timber, with poplars between to serve for log house and fencing purposes; he will also regret the limited possibilities for agriculture. Toward the head of this valley the woods thicken, and the road gets rougher and starts up the long slope that ultimately carries it over the hill. The ragged outlines of the San Miguel range come into view ahead, while the valley below, a solid “heather” of scrubby oak bushes, briers, ferns, and so on, seems carpeted in a queer design of tints of green and yellow, interspersed with all the mixtures of orange, scarlet and crimson that the deft fingers of the early frost could devise.
Over the long hill and past the spruces, an hour’s trotting takes the buckboard through the long hay meadows of Hermosa park, whence it ascends a four-mile hill to the summit of the last range dividing the waters of the Rio Las Animas from those of the Rio Dolores. And how we rattle down that Dolores slope! An Englishman riding on the Pennsylvania’s sixty-miles an hour train from New York to Philadelphia, the other day, exclaimed, “It’s wonderful! I think if something should drop one of you Yankees astride a thunderbolt, the first thing you would do would be to say, ‘chk! chk!’” I thought of that as we started, almost at a gallop, down that steep and winding mountain road. Corners—we snapped around them. Hollows and ridges—we bounced into and out of them. Down long, rough slopes, cut in the side of a hill so steep that just under the hub it fell away hundreds of feet almost like a precipice; down through the full blaze of the afternoon rays in the frost-turned aspens, where
“Tremulous, floating in air, o’er depths of azure abysses,
Down through the golden leaves the sun was pouring his splendors,”