We now turn and walk westwards. Then we enter the North Door, the principal entrance to the Cathedral. The exterior is the work of Wyatt; and though we take some pleasure in the carvings of foliage, figures, chevrons and lozenges that ornament the capitals and arch-moulds, it is the doorway, with its sanctuary knocker, that attracts our attention.
Criminals were wont to claim sanctuary at Durham from 740 to 1524. As soon as the fugitive grasped the ring he was safe. This knocker is a grotesque head of bronze with a ring hanging from the grinning mouth.
“The north entrance door tells an interesting tale. The present door is a modern restoration, and some of the original features of the famous entrance have been obliterated. Towards this door many a poor wretch hastening to escape the hands of the avenger has sped his fearful steps in days gone by. Attached to the door still glares a fearful-looking metallic head holding a ring in its mouth. In its now eyeless sockets were once in all probability balls of crystal, or enamel. When once the ring was grasped by the hand of the fugitive he was safe. He had claimed the ‘peace’ of St. Cuthbert, and the sanctity of the neighbouring shrine shielded him. Above the door by day and night watched relays of monks to admit those who claimed sanctuary. So soon as ever a fugitive had reached the door he was admitted. This done he had to confess the crime of which he was guilty, and his statement was taken down in writing. All the while a bell was tolling to give notice that some one had taken refuge in the church. Then the culprit was arrayed in a black gown with a yellow cross on his left shoulder, and remained within the precincts for thirty-seven days. If, at the end of that time, he could not obtain a pardon of the civil authorities, he was conveyed across the seas to begin life elsewhere.”—(T.)
The exterior has not prepared us for the great impression that we experience on entering the Nave with its enormous columns and noble arches. These columns are deeply cut, some with spirals, some with zigzags, some with reeds, etc. The whole effect is solemn. Fortunately the modern screen allows the gaze to traverse the entire length of the nave and choir until it is checked by the famous Neville Screen.
“The triforium is almost uniform throughout the whole church. In each sub-bay it consists of two small arches under one large one, with the tympanum solid. Here also the capitals are cushions and perfectly plain.
“Above the triforium is the clerestory, which contains one light to each sub-bay, and surmounting all is the vaulting, which springs from the piers and from grotesquely carved corbels between the triforium arches. The vaulting ribs are ornamented with chevrons on either side of a bold semicircular moulding. So much for the general arrangement of the bays. Some idea of the massiveness of the structures may be gathered when it is known that each group of the clustered pillars separating the bays covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five square feet at its base, while those of the cylindrical columns of the sub-bays are twelve feet square, and the columns themselves have a circumference of over twenty-three feet. There is little room to doubt that the effect obtained by the old builders of Durham was intentional. The masterly way in which great masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the ornament combine to prove this. There is in the whole scheme a delightful union of great power and vigour in the masses, and of tenderness and loving care in the detail.”—(J. E. B.)
At the west end of the nave stands the Font, a modern work in the Norman style carved with medallions depicting scenes from the life of St. Cuthbert. It is covered by a large wooden canopy, dating from 1663 and curiously carved with a mixture of Classic and Gothic ornamentation.
Durham is built in the form of a Latin cross, with transept, and in the centre of the arms rises the tower. At the east end another transept runs—the Chapel of the Nine Altars. At the west end we have the Galilee Chapel.
