Then we cross over to the Classic Hall, where the Emperor meets the literati and graduates to hear, and sometimes theoretically to pronounce a literary address. In the centre of the court there is a pagoda, crowned with a wonderful gold knob (like a mandarin's button at the top of his hat), and surrounded by an extremely gracefully-wrought marble trellis-work, enclosing a moat of sluggish green water. Opposite to it is a beautiful yellow porcelain arch, in three divisions, interwoven with green tiles, forming a vivid contrast, yet blending into a harmonious whole. There are other pagodas, containing those curious memorials, of a pyramidal stone resting on the back of a tortoise. These are, of course, also to the memory of distinguished literati. Open sheds surround the court, and inside the black palings, are the benches where the students sit, when the Emperor comes to hear the address delivered, and behind, against the wall, the 300 precious tablets, on which are engraved the authorized texts of the classics, the oldest remains of ancient Chinese literature. Plenty of other temples for ordinary worshippers we see, and always know them by the two poles outside, with gold knobs on the top.
We return to the city down a road which leads past the Drum and Bell towers, great pagoda-like structures, pierced by solid archways on each side, standing near together, both 100 feet high. The drum is sounded at every hour through the long night watches, and can be heard all over the city. A clepsidra is still kept to mark the time, a good instance of Chinese conservatism. Near here is the temple where Sir Harry Parkes and Sir Henry Loch were confined for the latter part of the time they were prisoners in Peking. Until recently their names could still be seen written on the wall, which, however, has lately been white-washed, perhaps purposely. Just before turning into the Meishan we catch a glimpse, in the far distance, of the beautiful Marble Bridge, spanning a lake filled with lotus. "Standing on this bridge, one overlooks a great part of the Imperial palace. The banks of the lake are studded with castles, temples, and gardens," but this, alas! like so much else in Peking, is closed to foreigners.
We now pass into the Imperial City, which is guarded within a wall seven miles in length, and go down a straight road raised in the centre, the sandy waste between it and the shops being in possession of cheap-Jacks and old-clothes' men. This road is in wonderful repair. The Emperor has recently passed over it, and the lanterns are freshly papered and water-butts are set ready at intervals. Thus the sovereign remains ignorant of the usual state of the roads, and knows nothing of the misapplication of public funds. The governor of the city or of the provinces is responsible for the condition of the roads, but were His Majesty to elect to make frequent journeys, the "squeezes" of the mandarins would be ruinous.
The Chinese legal and moral code is of the highest—on paper—but in practice there is a system of "squeeze," which rules through the length and breadth of the land; which pervades all business dealings, and every department of the government, undermining the integrity of the country. Everybody must have his "squeeze" out of every transaction. The Viceroy "squeezes"; the Governor "squeezes"; the judge, the taotaï, the smaller mandarins "squeeze"; for so they live. The pay is little or nothing. The office is valuable in proportion to its power to "squeeze." Our "boy" squeezes us, and back again there is a "squeezissima" within the Royal City itself.
All that is seen of the Forbidden City.
And now we stand under the walls of the Forbidden City. They are covered with Imperial yellow tiles, a deep moat surrounds them, and they are guarded by bannermen. There are but two entrances. There, straight before us is the Coal Hill, surmounted by a pavilion, within which the last of the Ming dynasty terminated the life of himself and his Imperial house, when the victories of the Tartar invader, the capture of the capital, the submission of the provinces, were completed. It is an artificial mound, 150 feet high, and as we proceed round the square of the walls, we see behind, amid the woods, the five summits, crowned with the five gleaming roofs of peacock blue, green and yellow of the pavilions and temples of the Prohibited City. Within its walls are a park and lake.
Little else is to be seen beyond the upper walls and the yellow roofs of the palaces. There are many of them, none apparently of great size. But in the centre hall is seated Kwang-Su, "The Son of Heaven," "The Lord of ten thousand years." The youth of twenty-two, who in his sixth year, upon "His Majesty the Emperor Tung-che suddenly ascending upon the Dragon to be a guest on high," was called unexpectedly, like our own Queen Victoria, from his bed in a distant part of the city to be saluted, in default of a direct heir, as Emperor of China. Is he the happier? The Imperial life must be dull and monotonous beyond bearing for one so young. In the Forbidden City his Majesty must find all his distractions. To go into the provinces would thrice beggar the exchequer.
There is the Hall of Highest Peace, where his Majesty gave rare audience to the representatives of foreign powers. Once only! and what negotiations it took to bring about! At length, yes! the Son of Heaven would let the envoys of the outer world look on him. But they must "kotow" thrice on their knees, touch the ground with their foreheads, and let the Chinese people take it as the bearing of tribute. No, the British Lion, and the eagles of Monarchs and Republics, cannot bend the knee. The point is carried at length. "But," says the Council of State, "it is only in that outer pavilion that our Lord Buddha will greet you."
The trained consuls report that this again is a mark of contempt, and must not be allowed. A more fitting place is decided upon. Then shall the Prince Ching present the letters of credit of the foreign envoys on his knees? No, that cannot be suffered either. Hand to hand must be the communication of monarch with monarch.