Strange it is that in this stronghold of conservatism, there should be found such a radical feature, whereby the humblest-born may raise himself by his own efforts to the rank of "big" mandarin. Very honourable it is, too, that the greatest attainment, the highest ambition and reward which the country offers, is the possession of this much coveted "First Degree." Year after year, the same men come up, and it must be a noble and touching sight, when, as is sometimes the case, an old man of ninety will offer himself. Though after a certain age, three trials entitle aged candidates to a degree honoris causa. These examinations are held in each province, and consist entirely in the writing of essays on classical subjects. The successful ones are afterwards published, and the victorious candidates accorded public and local honours.
We pass through some empty courts, under several peilaus, erected in honour of great scholars, once gay with rainbow paint, but now, of course, dusty and decaying. We can go no further—for across the great doors is placed an official seal, consisting of two strips of red paper placed crossways. We presume that the examination is still proceeding; 10,400 students from this great province of Chihli having presented themselves this year. The great expense, and the slow, tedious journey to Peking, does not deter the aspirants. For fourteen days and nights they are shut up in separate cells, with desk, chair, paper, pen and ink, their provisions being handed to them through a trap door in the wall. Thankful they must be when the ordeal is over.
We went on the last afternoon to see the Tsungli Yâmen, or Foreign Office—the Board which alone has dealings with the representatives of foreign countries. We pity these in their frequent pilgrimages thither; for to reach it we passed through a succession of the filthiest lanes, tortuous and narrow, bordered with stinking heaps of rubbish. In one of these was the green lion-guarded residence of the Emperor's cousin, Prince Tung, and all these fashionable dwelling-houses with their crumbling walls, from which the coatings of whitewash are peeling, are surrounded by these disgusting passages. Arrived at the Tsungli Yâmen, I only see the outer gateways of green and gold, for of course its desecration by feminine feet is not to be thought of.
Peking is for this reason a disappointment. There is so much to see, and yet so little that can be seen. Of recent years they have closed nearly everything to foreigners, and the bitter feeling against Europeans seems to be increasing. The Lama Temple you cannot visit on account of the hostile attitude of the people. Closed are all the Imperial buildings of the Prohibited City. The Marble Bridge, the Temple of Agriculture, where the emperor ploughs a furrow in springtime, but above all, invisible is the Temple of Heaven.
This latter temple is the most interesting sight of the Chinese City. Its name properly speaking, means, "the Altar of Heaven," for the Emperor attends here to sacrifice twice a year. It is said that "The worship of the Heaven or Supreme Ruler is the most important of all the state observances in China", before the rationalism of the Confucianists and the polytheistic superstition of Buddhism predominated. There are no images of any kind in the temple, and the offering of whole burnt bullocks, strikingly reminds us of the ancient custom of western religions, as that of the Hebrews and Greeks. The ceremonies of the sacrifices are kept with the utmost severity, and are of a very complicated nature.
The chief sacrifice is at the winter solstice. On the 20th day of December, the offerings and an elephant carriage are sent with great array to the temple, and on the 21st the Emperor follows in a sedan chair, covered with yellow silk, and carried by thirty-two men; he is preceded by a band of musicians, and followed by an immense retinue, including the princes, high officials, "big" and "little" mandarins, all on horseback. Having arrived at the temple, His Majesty offers incense to Heaven and to his ancestors, and inspects the offerings; then he is conveyed on the elephant carriage to the Palace of Abstinence, where he is not allowed to take any animal food or wine, nor to sleep. Next morning, seven quarters before sunrise, he puts on his sacrificial robes and goes to the southern gate of the outer enclosure, dismounts from the carriage and walks to the great altar, where an Imperial yellow tent has been erected on the second terrace. At the moment he arrives at the spot where he kneels, the fire of the sacrifice is kindled and music is heard. The Emperor then proceeds to the upper terrace of the altar, kneels and burns incense before Heaven and also presents incense to his ancestors. Then he makes three genuflections, and one prostration, and offers bundles of silk, jade cups and other gifts, music being heard all the time. Afterwards he kneels at another point of the altar, where an officer reads a prayer aloud. At last he receives kneeling the "cup of happiness" and the "flesh of happiness." With the first dawn the whole party return to the palace. Foreigners, who watched the party when passing the Ch'ien-men from the city wall, speak highly of the splendid appearance of the whole procession: hundreds of officials in brilliant robes of state and numberless followers on horseback, among them a company of the Imperial Life Guards.
THE GREAT WALL.
A similar sacrifice takes place at the spring solstice, with the same ceremonies, at the northern altar, but the motive is the special prayer for a prosperous harvest, whilst the winter sacrifice is offered for a blessing upon the whole empire.
We cannot see the ruins of the Summer Palace, the Yuan-ming-yuan, or Round and Splendid Garden, and which is distant about ten miles from Peking. "It is a delightful park with a rich variety of groves, temples, lakes, palaces and pavilions," and must from the photographs be very beautiful. It stands there for ever, as a memorial left to embitter the Chinese against us, yet who could say but that Lord Elgin, by destroying the Palace of their thrice sacred monarch, brought home to them a fit and righteous judgment?