21). Dark Red Purple with Logwood for Wool.—(For 2½ lbs.)
Mordant with 10 oz. alum and 2½ oz. cream of tartar for 1 hour. Let cool in the mordant, then wring out and put away for 4 or 5 days in a linen (or other) bag in the dark.
Dye with 1 lb. logwood, and ½ lb. madder. Boil up the logwood and madder in a separate bath and pour through a sieve into the dye bath. Enter the wool when warm and bring to boil. Boil from ½ hour to 1½ hours. Wash thoroughly.
22). Violet with Logwood for Silk.
The silk is washed from the soap and drained. For every pound of silk, dissolve in cold water 1 oz. verdigris; when it is well mixed with the water, the silk is immersed and kept in this liquor for an hour. This does not give colour. It is then wrung & aired. A logwood liquor is then made; the silk dipped in it when cold; it takes a blue colour sufficiently dark. The silk is taken out and dipped in a clear solution of alum; it acquires a red which produces a violet on the silk just dyed blue. The quantity of alum is undetermined; the more alum the redder the violet. The silk is then washed.
23). Ordinary Logwood Purple for Wool.
(For 1 lb.) Mordant wool with ¼ lb. alum and ½ oz. tartar for 1 hour; wring out and put away in a bag for some days. Dye with ¼ lb. logwood for 1 hour.
CHAPTER VII.
RED.
COCHINEAL, LAC-DYE, MADDER.
KERMES.
Kermes, or Kerms, from which is got the "Scarlet of Grain" of the old dyers, is one of the old insect dyes. It is considered by most dyers to be the first of the red dyes, being more permanent than cochineal and brighter than madder. In the 10th century it was in general use in Europe. The reds of the Gothic tapestries were dyed with it, and are very permanent, much more so than the reds of later tapestries, which were dyed with cochineal. Bancroft says "The Kermes red or scarlet, though less vivid, is more durable than that of cochineal. The fine blood-red seen at this time on old tapestries in different parts of Europe, unfaded, though many of them are two or three hundred years old, were all dyed from Kermes, with the aluminous basis, on woollen yarn."