On the pedestals of the columns round the four sides of this court (harem) there are brass plates, on which the dates of memorable events, such as great fires, earthquakes, revolts and tumults, are engraven. This mosque has four minarets, the galleries of which are ten in number, as a record that Sultán Suleïmán Khán was the tenth Sultán of the House of ’Osmán. The two minarets adjoining to the body of the mosque have each three galleries, to which there is an ascent by a staircase of two hundred steps; the two minarets at the inner angles of the court are lower, and have but two galleries each. Of the two lofty minarets which have three galleries, that on the left is called the Jewel Minaret, for the following reason:—Sultán Suleïmán, when building this mosque, in order to allow the foundations to settle, desisted, as has been already observed, for a whole year, during which the workmen were employed on other pious works. Sháh Tahmás Khán, King of ’Ajem (Persia), having heard of this, immediately sent a great Ambassador to Suleïmán, with a mule laden with valuable jewels, through friendship, as he said, for the Sultán, who, from want of money, had not been able to complete this pious work. The Ambassador presented the Sháh’s letter to the Sultán while surrounded with the innumerable builders and workmen employed about the mosque; and the latter, incensed on hearing the contents of the letter, immediately, in the Ambassador’s presence, distributed the jewels which he had brought to all the Jews in Islámból, saying, “Each Ráfizí, at the awful day of doom changed to an ass, some Jew to hell shall bear! To them, therefore, I give this treasure, that they may have pity on you on that day, and be sparing in the use of their spurs and whips.” Then giving another mule laden with jewels to Sinán, the architect, he said, still in the Ambassador’s presence, “These jewels, which were sent as being so valuable, have no worth in comparison with the stones of my mosque; yet, take them and mingle them with the rest.” Sinán, in obedience to the Sultán’s command, used them in building the six-sided basis of this mínaret, which derives its name from thence. Some of the stones still sparkle when the sun’s rays fall upon them; but others have lost their brilliance from exposure to excessive heat, snow, and rain. In the centre of the arch, over the Kibla gate, there is a Níshábúrí turquoise (pírúzeh), as large in circumference as a cup. There are on the two sides of this mosque forty different places where ablutions can be renewed.
A Description of the Imperial Mausoleum.
At the distance of a bow-shot from the Mihráb, in the midst of a delightful garden, is the sepulchre of Suleïmán, itself an unparalleled edifice, being crowned by a double cupola, so that one is placed over the other, the smaller below and the larger above. There is not, in the whole civilized world, a building so richly ornamented with wonderful sculptures and carvings in marble as this!
Description of the Outer Court.
The outer court of this mosque is a large sandy level planted with cypresses, planes, willows, limes, and ashes; and surrounding three sides of the building. It has ten gates: two on the Kibla side; viz. that of Merá, and that of the old Serái; on the south side, the Mekteb (school gate), chàrshù (market), medreséh (college), and Hakím-Báshi (Head Physicians) gates. On the west, the Imareh (alms-house), Táv-kháneh (hospital), and Aghá’s gate (Aghá kapú-sí). On the north side a stone staircase of twenty steps to the gate of the dome of one thousand and one nails, so called because that number of nails was used in constructing it. There is also the Hammám kapú-sí (bath-gate) looking eastwards, whence there is a descent of twenty steps to the bath. On this side the court (harem) is not enclosed by a wall, but merely by a low parapet, that the view of the city of Islámból may not be interrupted. There the congregation remains and enjoys a full view of the imperial palace, Uskudár (Scutari), the castle of the Canal (Bógház Hísárí) Beshik-tásh, Tóp-khaneh, Ghalatah, Kásim Páshá, the Okmeidán, and the harbour (khalíj) and strait (Bogház) traversed by a thousand boats and barges and other kinds of vessels—a spectacle not to be equalled in any other place in the world! The circumference of this outer court (harem) is one thousand paces. There is also a smaller court called the Pehliván Demir meïdání (i.e. wrestlers’ iron ground) between this mosque and the walls of the old serai. It is a valley where wrestlers from all the convents exercise themselves when afternoon-prayer is over (ba’de-l’asr). To the right and left of this mosque there are four great colleges for the education of lawyers in the four (orthodox) sects, which are now filled with men of the most profound learning. There is likewise a Dár ul-hadís, or school for instruction in the traditional law; a Dár-ul-karrà, or school for instruction in the recitation or chaunting of the Korán; a college for the study of medicine; a school for children; a hospital, a refectory, an alms-house, a hospital for strangers (Táv-kháneh), a karbánserái for comers and goers, a market for goldsmiths and button and boot makers, a bath, with apartments for the students, and thousands of chambers for their servants; so that within the precincts of the mosque there are altogether not less than 1001 cupolas. Seen from Ghalatah the Suleïmániyyeh seems like one vast plain covered with lead. The whole number of servants attached to the mosque is three thousand. They are maintained by secure and liberal endowments, all the islands in the White Sea, as Istankoi (Stanco), Sákiz (Chios), Ródós (Rhodes), &c. having been settled on it by Sultan Suleïmán. Its revenues are collected by five hundred men under the direction of the mutevellí (commissioner). There is no building in the whole empire of Islám stronger or more solid than this Suleïmániyyeh; nor has any cupola ever been seen which can be compared to this. Whether the solidity of its foundation, or the wonderful beauty and perfection of its different parts, be considered, it must be allowed to be, both within and without, the finest and most durable edifice which the world ever beheld. When it was finished, the architect Sinán said to the sultan: “I have built for thee, O emperor, a mosque which will remain on the face of the earth till the day of judgment: and when Halláj Mansúr comes, and rends Mount Demavund from its foundation, he will play at tennis with it and the cupola of this mosque.” Such were the terms in which he extolled its strength and durability; and indeed, standing on a lofty hill surrounded and strengthened below by various walls and bulwarks, its foundations are peculiarly solid. First, there is the upper wall of the Tahtu-l kal’ah; then, that of Siyávush Pashá’s palace; next, that of the Yenícherí Aghá’s; afterwards, that of the cistern in the little market: then those of the Aghá’s school, the warm bath, the lead magazine, and hospital. The foundations of all these buildings may be considered as the outworks of the foundation of this mosque. The humble writer of these lines once himself saw ten Franc infidels skilful in geometry and architecture, who, when the door-keeper had changed their shoes for slippers, and had introduced them into the mosque for the purpose of shewing it to them, laid their finger on their mouths, and each bit his finger from astonishment when they saw the minarets; but when they beheld the dome they tossed up their hats and cried Maryah! Maryah! and on observing the four arches which support the dome on which the date A.H. 944 (A.D. 1537) is inscribed, they could not find terms to express their admiration, and the ten, each laying his finger on his mouth, remained a full hour looking with astonishment on those arches. Afterwards, on surveying the exterior, the court, its four minarets, six gates, its columns, arches and cupolas, they again took off their hats and went round the mosque bareheaded, and each of the ten bit his fingers from astonishment, that being their manner of testifying the greatest amazement. I asked their interpreter how they liked it, and one of them who was able to give an answer, said, that nowhere was so much beauty, external and internal, to be found united, and that in the whole of Fringistán there was not a single edifice which could be compared to this. I then asked what they thought of this mosque compared with Ayá Sófiyah; they answered, that Ayá Sófiyah was a fine old building, larger than this, and very strong and solid for the age in which it was erected, but that it could not in any manner vie with the elegance, beauty, and perfection of this mosque, upon which, moreover, a much larger sum of money had been expended than on Ayá Sófiyah. Indeed, it is said, that every ten Miskáls of stone used in this mosque cost a piece of gold (a ducat). The entire sum expended in this building amounted to 890,883 yuks (74,242,500 piastres).
Another of Sultan Suleïmán’s monuments at Islámból is the Forty Fountains. Desirous of bringing into the city some sweet water which had been discovered at a considerable distance, he consulted the famous architect Sinán, who replied, that an undertaking so difficult would require enormous sums of money. Suleïmán promised to provide the necessary funds; the work was commenced, and in the course of seven years 3,700 arches were constructed, thus forming an aqueduct, and joining that of Yánkó Mádiyán near the horse-market. By this means the delicious water was circulated throughout the city, and the souls of the thirsty were made glad. In some parts the arches rise two or three stories high.
Suleïmán also commenced the bridge of Chekmejeh, which was completed by Selim II. He also built the mosques of Shehzádeh, Jehángír, and Khásseki; the new arsenal; and the college of Selim I., founded at the Koshk of the Khaljiler, and dedicated to the memory of his father; a mosque at Uskudár, called after his illustrious daughter Mehrebán, and two Kháns. In Rumeïli the monuments of his bounty are almost innumerable: amongst them may be enumerated the fortresses of Segdin, Sigeth, and Ouzi (Oczakow), on the frontiers. At Edreneh (Adrianople) he constructed an aqueduct, a bridge, and a mosque and refectory near the bridge of Mustafa Pasha. In Anátolí he built at Konea, near the tomb of Jelál-ud-dín-Rúmi (may God sanctify his secret state), a splendid mosque with two minárets, a college, a music-room for the Dervíshes, a dining-room for the poor (imaret), a refectory, and numerous cells for the poor Dervíshes. At Damascus, an extensive mosque and a college. At Kaf and Iznik (Nice) he converted two churches into mosques; a plan which he put into execution in all the towns and palankas which were conquered during his long and victorious reign. The cupola of the mosque of Solomon’s temple was also built by this Emperor, and he adorned the cupola of the sacrificial stone (sakhra-i-sherif) with ceilings of carved wood and stone, so that it equals the gallery of Chinese paintings, and resembles paradise. After the conquest of Baghdád, he erected over the tomb of the great Imám, Noamán-ben-Thábet, a castle, and a mosque with a refectory; and over the tomb of the Sheikh, Abdul-káder Jilani, a lofty cupola, a mosque, a refectory and other buildings for pious purposes. For the benefit of the holy cities (Mecca and Medina) he instituted the Surra, a present of 62,000 ducats, which is annually transmitted to those places by the Surrá-Emini; and the annual distribution of wearing apparel. He also repaired the aqueduct built by Hárún-ur-rashíd, adding four fountains to it, and conducting a stream to Mount Arefat. He moreover built at Mecca four colleges in the same style as those of Rumeïli, and endowed them in the same manner. He also rebuilt the cupola of Khadijeh, the Mother of the Faithful, with numerous other pious foundations which we shall have occasion to mention hereafter in the course of our travels: our present object being only to describe those of Islámból. All these pious works were effected by means of the prizes taken at Malta, Rodós, Bodin, Kizil-álma (Rome), Belgrade on the Danube, Baghdád, and other places; the whole amount of which is computed to have been 896,383 fulúrí (florins), which, according to the present value of money, would be 53,782,009 aspres, or 74,666,666 paras, or 1,866,666 piastres. During the reign of Suleimán Khán four aspres weighed one dirhem of pure silver, and one hundred ducats weighed 118 dirhems.
Description of the Mosque of Prince Mohammed.
According to the opinion of all architects and mathematicians, this mosque is situated in the centre of the triangle of Islámból. It ranks as the sixth imperial mosque, and was built by Suleimán Khán for his favourite son Mohammed, who died at Magnesia, and was buried here. Its cupola is an elegant piece of workmanship, and though not so large as that of the Suleïmániyyeh, it rears its head majestically into the skies: it is supported by rectangular pillars and four semi-domes. The mihráb and minber are both of exquisite workmanship. The mahfil is supported by eight columns, and on its left is the Sultán’s mahfil, also supported by columns. This mosque has no large columns, but is adorned with a double row of lamps amounting to eight thousand. It is lighted by windows on every side, and has three gates, over one of which, that opposite to the mihráb, is placed the chronogram: “The place of prayer for the Prophet’s people, 955” (A.D. 1548), in which year the foundation was laid. This also is of Sinán’s architecture. It was commenced on the 1st of Rabi’-ul-avul, 955 (10th April 1548), and was finished in the month of Rajab, 965 (April 1558). It cost 15,000,000 aspres. Facing the mihráb, in a most delightful garden beneath a lofty cupola, is the tomb of Prince Mohammed, and beneath another, that of his brother Jehángír, who died at Halep (Aleppo), and was buried in this place. The court is adorned with numerous columns, and in the centre there is a fountain, beneath a cupola supported by eight columns, which was built by Murád IV. The two minarets, with their double galleries, have not their equal in Islámból, Edreneh, or Brusa, for ornaments and sculptures. The lead-covered roof is a piece of art likewise well worthy of admiration. On three sides it is surrounded by a large plain planted with trees, underneath one of which, on the left-hand side of the mosque, is buried the Sheikh, Ali Tabl, who was drummer in Iyyúbs expedition against Islámból. Round this large court stand the college, refectory, and hospital for strangers (Tav-khaneh); it has neither a bath nor a common hospital.
The mosque at Fundukli, dedicated to the memory of the prince Jehángír, was also built by Suleimán. But this shall be described in its proper place.