Pilgrimages of Nicomedia.
On the west side of the town is the tomb of Sheikh-zadeh Mohammed Efendí, a great Sheikh of the order of Khalvetís, and a great alchemist. He distributed food and clothes amongst the brethren of his order, though he never had any fixed revenue. I was entertained for ten days in the house of my relation Kúl-oghlí Mohammed Chelebí in this town; then embarked and went to the opposite shore only three miles distance, whence after a journey of thirty miles, we reached the port of Deal, the further side of which is called Gebízeh’s Deal, while this side is called Hersek’s Deal or tongue. The origin of this tongue of land is ascribed to a Dervish, who having been refused a passage by the ferryman, took up earth in his apron, and threw it into the water, where it grew out immediately into a point, on which he walked to the length of twelve thousand paces, to the great fright of the ferrymen, who saw that he was going to unite the two shores and stop their living. They ran after him, and did not desist from entreating him, till he left the remainder of the sea open, and entered their boat. He is buried at the Deal of Gebízeh, on the spot called Deal-bábá. At Hersek Deal is a large Khán for travellers who wait there for a passage; Hersek-oghlí Ahmed Páshá was Vezír to Mohammed II., and this Khán, built by him, bears his name. We set sail, and at the end of fifty miles reached the castle of Kara Yalaváj, built by a Greek princess, and named Kara Yalaváj-oghlí, who conquered it in the time of Osmán. The castle was destroyed at the siege, which was difficult and prolonged, the ruins still remain; in the time of Ilderím this castle was said to belong to the sanjak of Brússa. The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the janissaries and a Súbashi, the town has seven-hundred houses, faced with brick, and seven mihrabs. In the Market-place is a mosque with a minareh capable of holding a great number of people, one bath, three kháns and from forty to fifty shops, but the air being very heavy, agues frequently prevail. Its yoghúrd and fruits are excellent. Having visited all that was worth seeing here, we entered our chariots (araba) took a south east direction, and at the end of five hours arrived at Germáb Jihán-námah, a pleasure spot in the midst of thick forests, where we found a couple of hundred tents. We pitched ours and entered into conversation with the guests, who come here after taking a course of the purgative waters at Deal, to cleanse themselves in the hotbath, which was built in the time of Yanko Ben Madián. Helena, the daughter of Yanko, being leprous and exiled to these mountains, discovered by accident the marvellous quality of these waters; by bathing in them, she became cured of her leprosy in forty days, which was the cause of this building being erected. Her father built six cupolas, of which two are yet existing, with a large basin beneath, the water of which is extremely hot, but is pleasant when mixed with cold. These baths are frequented by a great many people in the cherry season. We remained here a whole week, after which we again started, and at the end of a five hours journey, came to the castle of Samánlí, which was conquered in Sultán Osmán’s time by Samánlí-oghlí from whom it took its name. Its castle is in ruins, and there are but an hundred and fifty houses with gardens, a mosque and three mesjids, belonging to the district of Yalova. The air is heavy. We embarked for the island of Heibelí, distant twenty miles, which is nine miles in circumference, and which we have already mentioned in our journey to Brússa. Six miles further on is the island Táshánlí, which derives its name (Hare island) from the infinite number of hares, found there; it is only one mile in circumference, and is uncultivated. The tree Rakíta (?) grows on this island. After rowing eight miles we came to the island of Búrgházlí with a strong but small castle, situate on the chalk cliffs by the sea-shore. The island is eleven miles in circumference, and is called Búrgház from its castle ([Greek: pyrgos]) it has three hundred houses with fine gardens and good wells, and is ruled by a Súbashí and Yassakjí, the inhabitants are all Greeks, and are rich masters of boats. The island abounds in goats and hares. Their wealth is ascribed by the author of the Taríkhí Yalován, to the loss of a richly laden Spanish fleet which was wrecked among the Prince’s Islands in the time of the Greek Emperors, the cargo of which being thrown on shore or fished up by divers, enriched the inhabitants of Kizilata (Prince’s Island), Heibelí (Khalki), Borgházlí (Antigone), Táshánlí (Platys or Oxia), and Kanálí (Proti). The latter island is eight miles in circumference, has a convent and a village of one hundred houses. Ten miles distant from it is Kizilata (the Prince’s Island), a cultivated island of twenty miles in circumference, with a village of two hundred Greek houses. It is called Kizilata or the red island, from the appearance of its mountains, and is near Scutari. On its four sides Daliáns (look-outs for catching fish) are established. These islands are seven altogether, ruled by the Bostanjí-báshí, and form part of the Captain Páshá’s province, who appoints the Súbashí and a Yassakjí. These seven islands are eighteen miles distance from Constantinople, in a line between Constantinople and Yelova. I passed seven days visiting these isles, the weather being unfavourable. At last the wind became fair, and I entered Constantinople on the first of Rebi-ul-ákhir, after a month’s absence, landing at Wood-gate. I kissed the hands of my father and mother, presented them with some gifts from Nicomedia, and received their benediction. Ketánjí Omer Páshá, an old and particular friend of my father having been named governor of Trebisonde, he appointed my father as his Kapú Kiaya or agent at Constantinople, and I accompanied him on the journey to his government.
JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE.
In the beginning of Jemazi-ul-akhir, 1050, after having taken leave of my friends, I embarked at the Flour-hall in the ship called Kara-mursal of Fertíl-oghlí of Trebisonde, and in three hours time arrived at Yenikoí on the Bosphorus, which has been already described in the first volume. We there took in five hundred quintals of biscuit, and ten boat-loads of ballast. In seven hours more we reached the castle of Kavák, which was built by Sultán Murád IV. as stated in the first volume. Here we read a Fátihah for a prosperous voyage through the mouth of the Bosphorus, and, trusting in God, we sailed along the Asiatic rocks, and arrived at the harbour of Irva on the frontiers of Kojá-Ilí, a district with a Súbashí, a mosque, a khán, from forty to fifty magazines, and one hundred houses faced with brick and surrounded with gardens. The south and south-east sides are all gardens. We took in water, and advanced by rowing, along the Asiatic shore. At the end of thirty-six miles we came to Shila, a jurisdiction of Kojá-Ilí, here are six hundred houses faced with brick, with a garden to each, and a mosque at the head of the harbour. The small town of Kefken has a bath, some shops and a khán. One hundred miles further on we arrived at the island of Kerpe, which is twenty miles in circumference, but is uninhabited; it is but a mile distant from the continent of Kojá-Ilí. The small town of Kándria, with gardens, mosque, khán and bath, is in the mountains of Kándrí at four hours distance from the island. The river Sakaria here disembogues into the Black Sea; it rises from the mountains of Cútahia, goes to Kiva, a place belonging to the district of Nicomedia, and falls into the Black Sea near Kerpe. There being no wind we rowed ten miles further on, and came to Akcheshár, a Voivode’s residence in Kojá-Ilí, here is a judge with an income of one hundred and fifty aspers. It was formerly a fine town, but burnt by the accursed Cossacks in the reign of Ahmed I. There are now only six hundred Turkish houses, some faced with brick, and others of wood; on the market-place stands a brick-built mosque, forty shops but no Bezestán, a bath and three kháns, one of which was formerly covered with lead. The cultivation of the place is now in a very low state. It is the harbour of Bolí; on the shore are seventy magazines full of wood and timber. Mountain on mountain rises on the east side of the town, and gardens appear one above the other; the people are healthy on account of the purity of the air. We passed Ereglí (Heraclea) and the tower of the shepherds (Chobán Kúlessí) a small castle on a lime cliff, but not garrisoned. Near it is the statue of the builder, very like life. We passed the rivers Túfadár and Bárten, the last of which is a great river, where Egyptian ships enter to be loaded. The Castle of Bárten was built by the Genoese; and is situated at the end of a gulf eighteen miles in depth. We went from hence eighteen miles further north, and arrived at Amassra (Amastris) built by the Greek Emperors, the seat of a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Bolí. The castle is a strong square building on a high hill, it was attacked at different times by the Russians, who were always compelled to retreat. It has no Dizdár, but a judge with an income of one hundred and fifty aspers, and a commanding officer of the janissaries. In the castle is a mosque and some mesjíds, but no dining or reading establishment. Amassra is situated on the east of Sinope, distant five days journey by land, and one hundred miles by sea. It is also on the east side of Heraclea, at a distance of four days journey by land, and fifty miles by sea. The climate and fruits of this place are much praised. On the east and west side are two excellent ports, the safest refuge in the world; at the eastern harbour is a bath, and good magazines. The river Kayú forms the frontier between the sanjak of Bolí and Kastemúní. It is forty miles from here to the harbour of Kadoz; at the distance of seventy miles is reached the point of Kerenbe, a cape like that of Sinope; on the rocks are some remarkable inscriptions.
The castle of Ainebolí was built by the Genoese, and is now the seat of a Súbashí, subordinate to Kastemúní; the judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the janissaries, a Dizdár and garrison. The castle is a strong pentagon on the seashore; its gate looks to the east, the houses are all faced with brick, in the market-place are mosques and mesjíds, a bath and shops, it is the landing-place of Kastemúní, but has no good harbour. We rowed from hence till we came in sight of the cape of Sinope, and anchored before Shátir-koí, a pleasant village, where all the passengers went on shore. The high mountains (Balkán) are covered with tall trees, which afford excellent timber for the large ships that are built here. The inhabitants are all ship-builders. Sixty miles to the north, along the seashore, lies the village of Istefan belonging to Kastemúní; the houses are faced with brick, and seven miles beyond is the town of Sinope.
Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope.
Omer Ben Abd-ul-assíz, the nephew of Súleimán Ben Abd-ullah of the Ommiades, having laid siege to Constantinople without effect, also besieged this castle, but retreated without taking it. It was conquered by Úlú-Beg the Lord of Kastemúní, and again in the year 796 by Ilderím. As it is an extremely strong fortress, it was with difficulty taken after the third siege. It is a free fief entirely separated from Kastemúní; a Dizdár, Serdár, a judge, Muftí, and Nákíb-ul-ishráf, are the authorities of the place.
The inhabitants are a commercial people, being mechanics and merchants, with some Sheikhs and Ulemas. They commonly wear ferrájís of cloth and caftáns of Bogassin. The mountains on the east and Kiblah side of the town are laid out in gardens. The town of Kastemúní is three journies distant on the east side. Sinope is situated on a cape of the Black sea, which bears the same name. Opposite to it on the European shore of the Black sea are the rocks of Kilghra Sultán, and the Black sea appears between them like a straight, which widens towards Constantinople and Trebisonde. Sinope is five hundred miles distant from Constantinople, and lies on the west side of Samsún at four journies distance. The castle stands on a high hill with triple walls of Shedád (gigantic or cyclopean) and was built by the Greeks. It is seven thousand paces in circumference, and has six thousand six hundred battlements, and eight gates, viz. the sand-gate, the place-gate, the arsenal-gate, the new-gate, the hospital-gate, the gate of the inner castle, (Lonjá), the Oghran gate, and the gate of the inner castle towards the sea. All these gates are of iron and double. The lower part of the castle on the seashore is washed by the waves on the two sides, its form is an oblong square; viewed from the top of Mount Búzdepeh it appears like a ship’s deck divided into three parts. The commander is a constant prisoner, for the inhabitants are empowered by an Imperial rescript to kill him if he goes further from the castle than the distance of a cannon’s shot. The garrison consists of six hundred brave warlike men. In the time of Sultán Ahmed, on a dark night, the Cossacks took the town by escalade, and the great Vizír Nassif Páshá, was put to death for having concealed it from the Sultán. It was retaken from the Infidels and garrisoned with fifty additional men, and provided with one thousand quintals of powder, a great number of large and small guns, and other arms. From that period the watch has been kept nightly by two hundred officers and Chaúches, and after the music of sunset the guards, cry their “all’s well,” (Yeg dir Allah). The Infidels tried several times to retake it, but were routed and driven back in great confusion, and God be thanked! they have made no new attempt since the reign of Sultán Murád IV. The town is divided into twenty-four quarters, those of the Infidels are on the sea-beach; one thousand one hundred Infidels pay the tribute (Kharráj) and one hundred are exempted because they are employed in renewing the fortifications; there are five thousand and sixty ancient houses of stone, with slated roofs, facing the sea to the west. The oldest mosque is that in the castle of Ala-ud-dín which has a lead-covered cupola, and a mináreh one hundred paces long, in a fair proportion, with three gates. The mihráb and the place of the Muëzzins are of exquisite workmanship, but the minber is so elegant that angels alone could adequately describe it; I will make the attempt, but it will be like a drop in the ocean or a mote in the sun. It was composed by ancient masters of six different kinds of marble, which are so well put together that even the cleverest artists, such as Jemshíd would be unable to discover the joints. All the flowers and blossoms of the earth are here skilfully engraved and carved, so that in all Islám there is no minber to be compared with this, unless it be that of the great mosque at Brússa, which, nevertheless, cannot compete with it in the abundance of floral ornament; in short, all travellers and artists who behold this minber, place the finger of astonishment on their mouths, for it seems more like a supernatural than a human work. Being situated in the suburb of the Castle, it is always crowded with people whose prayers are put up to Heaven. The remaining mosques are the Súleimánie in the inner castle with one mínáreh; the new mosque near the gate of the Meidán (Almeida); the Ayá Sofiáh, an old mosque faced with brick, the mosque Kefelí outside of the gate of the Meidán, and that of Mohammed Aghá with a well proportioned mínáreh.
The Baths are as follows:—The bath in the upper part of the market is a double one, that of the lower is a single one like that on the sea-shore, Yallí, the building, the air and the water are equally pleasant and agreeable. There is the college of Sultán Ala-ud-dín and sixty abecedarian schools. When I visited this town, the inhabitants boasted, that there were two thousand boys and girls who had learned reading and knew the Korán by heart. There is an Imaret, a house for lectures on Tradition, and three for reading the Korán, and one thousand shops, full of valuable goods; provisions, the white bread especially, and beverages are good. The harbour is excellent, affording shelter for ships against all quarters of the wind; there is no better port in the Black sea unless it be that of Báliklava; the best water is found here, and the beautiful symmetry of the Turkish youth of both sexes is to be attributed to the mildness of the climate.