Note 3, [p. 211].The river Khalliz.

This was no doubt originally called Halys, which seems to have formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil Irmák.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.


THE
TRAVELS
OF
EVLIYA EFENDI.


JOURNEY TO BRUSSA.

Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii to praise him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels and Eden, Húrís and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses and daffodils, nightingales and murmuring fountains, pearls and corals; the moon and the radiant sun: greetings also be to Ahmed the prophet, who by his family accomplished his divine mission! Praise be to the Creator! who out of nothing called me into existence and destined me to obey him, imposing on me the duties of Islám, the prayer, fast, alms and pilgrimage. In accomplishment of this sacred duty, I, his lowly servant Evliyá, left my family, and, with the desire of performing the pilgrimage, first tried my strength by commencing, in the month of Moharrem 1040, a journey on foot through the environs and quarters of Constantinople; the account of which is contained in the first volume of these travels. My ardent wish was to see Jerusalem and Baghdád, Mecca and Medina, Cairo and Damascus, according to my dream related in the introduction to the first volume of these travels, when the prophet appeared to me in the night, and I, by a slip of the tongue, said to him, instead of the usual form, Shifá’at yá ressúl-allah (Intercession, O envoy of God) Siyáhat yá ressúl-allah (Travelling, O envoy of God) and he, graciously smiling, granted my wish.

“Whatever God willeth, he prepares the means for its accomplishment.” Thus ten years after this dream, when I came to the house of my friend Okjí Zádeh Chelebí, I found that preparations were made for a journey to Brússa. He invited me to be his companion according to the maxim, “First the companion, then the road;” and said, “Let us spend a fortnight in visiting all the remarkable monuments at Brússa: the tombs of the Ottoman Sultáns, particularly that of the great Saint Emír Sultán, and by this visit illuminate our hearts.” I accepted this proposal as a divine inspiration, saying, “in God’s name!” to which all present responded, giving us their best wishes for a prosperous journey.

For the first time then, without the knowledge of my family, I set out on this journey, in the year 1050, accompanied by twenty friends in a boat of Modania, leaving the town of Constantinople, the place of my birth, with the intention of seeing other towns and villages. The present volume gives an account of this journey, which I undertook in consequence of the verse of the Korán, “Travel therein safely day and night,” and describes all the hardships I underwent; for according to the tradition of the prophet; “A journey is a fragment of hell.” We weighed anchor at Emírgúneh, on the Bosphorus, and called at Findiklí to take on board as passengers some clever ship-builders; and in the morning on the first Friday of Moharrem of the year 1050, the boatmen finding the time favourable for sailing, unfurled the sails and weathered the point of the Seraglio; laying the ship’s head towards Brússa, the object of our voyage. All the passengers were in high spirits, and some of them implored the Lord’s assistance for a happy voyage by singing spiritual songs. Some Musicians encouraged me to accompany them in their strains, and so, after having preluded awhile, I fixed on the measure girdánieh, and sung three tetrasticks and one sumáyí of the compositions of Dervísh Omerbesteh. Several of the boatmen accompanied us on their instruments, chokúr, with such effect, that water came into the mouths of the hearers with delight. Amidst these amusements we came to the island of Heibelí (Prince’s Islands), eighteen miles distant from Constantinople, and nine in circumference; it contains a famous Convent which is visited every year by many boats from Constantinople. The inhabitants are all wealthy Greeks, captains and masters of ships. The public officers are the Bostánji-báshí (of Constantinople) and an officer of the Janissaries. From hence we weighed anchor with a brisk gale, the vessel cutting the waves with a rapidity as though fire was bursting forth from it, and after five hours’ sailing landed happily on the coast of Modania.