LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| Coloured Berries of Supple Jack | [Frontispiece] |
| To face page | |
| A Sandy Cove—Stewart Island | [22] |
| Clinton River—Te Anau Lake | [30] |
| Lake Wakatipu | [47] |
| Otago Harbour | [59] |
| Road between Fairlie and The Hermitage | [66] |
| Mount Cook Lilies | [72] |
| River Avon at Christchurch in Winter | [81] |
| The Westland Forest | [101] |
| Franz Josef and Almer Glaciers, from Cape Defiance | [110] |
| Mounts Sefton and Footstool, from Copland Pass | [132] |
| Glacier Hotel, Waiho Gorge | [143] |
| Ice Pinnacles, Almer Glacier | [149] |
| Mount Moltke and Victoria Glacier, from Chancellor Ridge | [159] |
| Southern Alps, from Mouth of Waiho River | [164] |
| Lake Rotorua | [179] |
| Maori Ancestral Figure | [197] |
By Forest Ways in New Zealand
CHAPTER I
WELLINGTON
The ship which brought me to New Zealand called first at Wellington, the capital city, with a population, as I afterwards heard, of ninety thousand.
Ships steam up a narrow, rocky channel into the harbour, which widens out into an area of fifty square miles, with deep water right up to the town, and wharves adjoining the chief streets. All round the harbour are hills, most of them now cleared of trees and grass-grown; but in 1840, when Wellington was founded as a Colony under the British Crown, it was a tiny settlement of huts ringed about by miles of untouched forests; and you realize with never-failing wonder how great a change has been wrought in a very short space of time. The town is built along the water front and up the hills behind, and is spreading every day higher up the hills and round the pleasant bays with which the rocky coast is indented.